What have you done to your Jeep today?

you should redo your cage in that stuff to save even more weight

Quote from clendaniel

Sectioned/chopped truss for my front axle, fabbed a pair of control arm mounts, tacked everything in place and mocked up my new upper control arm to get rid of the damn radius arms. Once I pull the axle out for final welding the truss will be getting boxed in and gusseted. As soon as Ballistic gets me the rest of my joints, inserts, and jam nuts I'll fab up my CA replacements. Debated going w/ 7075 aluminum control arms but found a cheaper/lighter alternative...

cheaper and lighter than alum?

heat treated chromoly? if that's what you found give Dave at Full Circle a call, his 7075 alum rod was only $300 for my tie rod drag link and track bar

Pulled the Jeep into the garage to let it THAW. All this snow and almost bald 31" Goodyear MT/R's but hey i never got stuck.

Quote from Meeper

cheaper and lighter than alum?

heat treated chromoly? if that's what you found give Dave at Full Circle a call, his 7075 alum rod was only $300 for my tie rod drag link and track bar

check out the new hotness, PVC

Quote from Meeper

cheaper and lighter than alum?

heat treated chromoly? if that's what you found give Dave at Full Circle a call, his 7075 alum rod was only $300 for my tie rod drag link and track bar

Hmm...guess the humor wasn't obvious enough, Mike. ;D

FWIW I priced out 2" 7075 CA's and even at 'only' $125-140/per it was gonna be significantly more than the $$ necessary for 'normal' DOM w/ inserts. For the smaller stuff (tierod/dl's) branik was pretty damn good if you stuck to just hex ends and didn't start blinging things out w/ full polish and engraving.

I'm just sticking with steel for now, most of the cash is in joints anyway. While I can appreciate the weight savings I'm moving from steel->steel, my only reason for swapping all my arms is that I'm tired of changing OEM rubber bushings in the clayton arms every season from use/abuse and I can reuse them on Jen's TJ down the road (after they receive a little TLC). I would have to hack the UCA mounts off them anyway and, well, I'm always game to change something.

--Ian

Quote from clendaniel

Hmm...guess the humor wasn't obvious enough, Mike. ;D

FWIW I priced out 2" 7075 CA's and even at 'only' $125-140/per it was gonna be significantly more than the $$ necessary for 'normal' DOM w/ inserts. For the smaller stuff (tierod/dl's) branik was pretty damn good if you stuck to just hex ends and didn't start blinging things out w/ full polish and engraving.

I'm just sticking with steel for now, most of the cash is in joints anyway. While I can appreciate the weight savings I'm moving from steel->steel, my only reason for swapping all my arms is that I'm tired of changing OEM rubber bushings in the clayton arms every season from use/abuse and I can reuse them on Jen's TJ down the road (after they receive a little TLC). I would have to hack the UCA mounts off them anyway and, well, I'm always game to change something.

--Ian

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sorry lil slow today. i saw the PVC and was like WTF LMAO

2" lowers and 1.5" uppers is what i plan on doing for the WB stretch if i go with longer amrs that is, but im thinking i can just move the mounts on the frame back 4-5" and get same effect and get some good clearance out of it that way instead of some really long arms hangin down

Just finshed up helping put in Patrick (anx1ous) chromo cv front axles shafts.... they will be refered to as dirty 30's lol.... cause of the 30 outeres on the rubi 44's

Replaced the R Upper Control Arm on the XJ and did a post/pre snow storm insp. Mounted the 31in Dunlops off the YJ on the XJ BRING ON THE SNOW !!!!!

UPS man brought me my tube fenders!

Quote from james78

I was eyeing those from metal cloak... I like the flat top better than the other style...

Yeah, they came out with the Overlines right before I ordered them. It made me happy because I'm not a fan of the arched ones either!

Fabbed up a new set of rear swaybar links...my old ones were too long after flipping my swaybar on my 60 and with no misalignment spacers would bind up and bend. Made the new ones w/ studded heims so should have plenty of movement now.

Check one more item off the list...

--Ian

ian those are bling

Quote from omaha

ian those are bling

You'd think he would have sprung for some new nuts. ;D

Quote from Keith_C

You'd think he would have sprung for some new nuts. ;D

Heh, they will be replaced before install as a couple are pretty scarred up...was just getting them together and getting the length's last night. Only going with cad-plated though, I'm not quite up to Bill's level where I would need some SS goodness. ;D

--Ian

Quote from clendaniel

Heh, they will be replaced before install as a couple are pretty scarred up...was just getting them together and getting the length's last night. Only going with cad-plated though, I'm not quite up to Bill's level where I would need some SS goodness. ;D

--Ian

Getting there buddy. It's a dark path. You should have put the sweet aluminum links Steve from ORO sent me. Not quite shiny but nice and strong as hell. Eh, at least you get to put them on Jen's Jeep.

Quote from KnoxRents

Getting there buddy. It's a dark path. You should have put the sweet aluminum links Steve from ORO sent me. Not quite shiny but nice and strong as hell. Eh, at least you get to put them on Jen's Jeep.

Already had the female heims to use allthread and I'd previously drilled my mounts and bar to 1/2" for larger hardware...I'll get the male version in stock size to use those on hers.

--Ian

Finally started my Scrambler Dana 44 axle conversion. Dropped the rear spring, cut the u-bolts, and removed the AMC 20 today. Guess I have to burn out the old bushings to get the front spring hangers out. Or I could sawsall the bolts out. The new RE kit should have new bolts. Any advice toget the bolts out with out destroying them or the urethane bushings?

Steve

Just get new urethane bushings.

Yeah, the new RE kit has all new urethane and greasable bolts.. Will cut them away Monday AM..