opinions on oil skids

  • what does everybody prefer or suggest. I have been looking at both frame mounted and engine mounted :read:

    02 Tj hp Dana 30 4.88 ox locker, Dana 44 4.88 ox locker 3inch Teraflex coils and adjustable lower control arms 33 TSL Thornbirds and 4 chipmunks workin hard under the hood.
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  • I personaly do not like the olipan mounted skids. IMO they are cosmetic. I have seen them peeled off or just had the pan fail. Pony up the $ and get the SkidRow engine skid. As far as the ones I have seen its the best one.


    I have one, but gotta get it put back on. I removed it for general maint. and never put it back on... :doh:

  • So you think they engine mounted ones are junk??? I was reading and they said that they are just as strong but give u more clearance. Is this just a load of sh*t???

    02 Tj hp Dana 30 4.88 ox locker, Dana 44 4.88 ox locker 3inch Teraflex coils and adjustable lower control arms 33 TSL Thornbirds and 4 chipmunks workin hard under the hood.
    Less brains MORE THROTTLE

  • I was asking the same question a couple of months ago before a Paragon trip. I wanted to take the YJ, but only had the OEM center and tank skids. I didn't have the cash for the Skid Row, but wanted something on the oil pan, so I bought the "cosmetic" type. I got the one q-tec sells for $50 and epoxied it on. It survived Paragon, and it must've been hit a few times (I'm not lifted yet). I still have that Skid Row skid on my wish list, but until then this is better than nothing... maybe even only a little, but it is there to deflect something.


    I've since been advised to get a better gas tank skid first, which I did (Kilby), and a welder friend said that tacking a plate to the pan is a good idea. To me, this little skid is close enough like tacking a plate to the pan. Q-tec sells "extreme-duty" off-road oil pans that look just like mine now, except mine is epoxied on. For $50 it was worth it, but in the long run, probably temporary.


    If you go that route too, FYI, I took an palm sander under the Jeep and roughed up the pan a bit for the epoxy to get a good hold. I also used the entire tube... I'd be surprised if it ever came off!


    DrJ

  • SKids mounted to just the engine are not necessarily junk, I would say avoid tera flex's and the hokey glue on one I have seen both bend and peel up to the point of being useless. Skid row is good nth degree is good and can be made better. If you don't have the cash now for either just save yourself money and heartache and wait until youcan afford them

  • Any skid is better than none. Although the sump region is the most prone to catch a rock since it hangs the lowest, it is not the only vulnerable place. Aaron punctured his oil plan near the front of the engine. When he came off a Nueroc obstacle hard his front suspension flexed enough to allow the hydraulic steering to dent the front of his oil pan. The dent was deep enough that the crank wore a hole in the pan within seconds.


    I have also noticed a nice dent in the front of my oil pan caused when my front diff came up high enough to shove the differential breather fitting into the pan. I have since changed pipe fitting styles.

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  • I think we have a matter of degree here again. For the blues and greens my YJ will likely see in the near future, this wasn't a bad $50 to spend. I agree it isn't THE answer, but it will do until I can get the Skid Row (apparently the only skid fir a 4 cyl. YJ?). If the skid is the next thing on your list, don't buy this one, save the $50. I on the other hand heeded the advice to get the Kilby skid first, so this little $50 skid AND a new Kilby fitted my situation better than getting the Skid Row only. Of course, the day that little skid falls off in the drive way from the force of the garden hose, I'll edit this post!



    DrJ (like my pappy said, you can't have too much protection)

  • I have the skidrow engine skid and it seems to hold up pretty well.. but i did bend it a little on my last trip to paragon.. other than that it has the usual scrapes and dents any normal skid plate would on an otherwise stock TJ :rollsmile:

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  • Well the meaning of me asking is because i am going to do custom skids. My plan is to make a skirt with a slope in the front that would bolt to the bottom of the block via oil pan bolts out of titanium.

    02 Tj hp Dana 30 4.88 ox locker, Dana 44 4.88 ox locker 3inch Teraflex coils and adjustable lower control arms 33 TSL Thornbirds and 4 chipmunks workin hard under the hood.
    Less brains MORE THROTTLE

  • Not to get off subject or hurt anyone's feelings BUT...

    YJ's were produced from 87-95. In that time maybe, MAYBE one or two engine skids existed. The reason is that the YJ oil pan is around 4 to 6 inches higher than the tj pan. It wasn't until the Tj came out that all the yj guys even knew they were missing something.

    Now don't get me wrong, I have seen a YJ oil pan get smacked good (cough, cough NikkiYJ), but for most it might be unnecessary at this stage.


    Artie

  • Just a thought :hmm: but the less stress put on the engine the better. When you hit the skid mounted to the engine the shock is transferred to the motor mounts and then to the frame. :question: So why not just mount them to the frame. :spinrhead:

  • Quote from "turtle"

    Just curious why you would even think of using titanium in a jeep application :shrug:

    well the fact that its lighter and a whole lot stronger than steal about covers it. :yevil:

    02 Tj hp Dana 30 4.88 ox locker, Dana 44 4.88 ox locker 3inch Teraflex coils and adjustable lower control arms 33 TSL Thornbirds and 4 chipmunks workin hard under the hood.
    Less brains MORE THROTTLE

  • Quote from "GOTMUDD02"

    well the fact that its lighter and a whole lot stronger than steal about covers it. :yevil:


    You mention using titanium bolts, the difference in weight between a few bolts even if they were aluminum would be miniscule.


    Also, those super strong bolts might not break, but something will and it would probably be the engine block.


    Sounds like a bad idea to me.


    Just my $.02 as a wannabe engineer.

  • You got it Ed :up: I dont want to fab up titanium bolts I want to do the skids out of titanium :grin:

    02 Tj hp Dana 30 4.88 ox locker, Dana 44 4.88 ox locker 3inch Teraflex coils and adjustable lower control arms 33 TSL Thornbirds and 4 chipmunks workin hard under the hood.
    Less brains MORE THROTTLE

  • Quote from "GOTMUDD02"

    You got it Ed :up: I dont want to fab up titanium bolts I want to do the skids out of titanium :grin:


    I guess if you had it laying around I could see it.


    A 24"x24"x.250" piece of steel plate weighs 40.83 lbs.


    Titanium would weigh 23.48 lbs.


    Wouldn't be worth buying it to save that little bit of weight. Not on a Jeep that could easily weight 4K lbs.

  • Well lets put it this way I am not doing it because of the weight although it is an added benifit, and I would'nt do it if it was heavier but it is alot stronger than steel. My uncle siad he can get some for me for a good price and he would do the fabin for me. I havent featherd out all the details yet but it looks like it will be cheaper for me to do that than to buy all of them out of Q-tec or somewhere else.

    02 Tj hp Dana 30 4.88 ox locker, Dana 44 4.88 ox locker 3inch Teraflex coils and adjustable lower control arms 33 TSL Thornbirds and 4 chipmunks workin hard under the hood.
    Less brains MORE THROTTLE

  • Quote from "GOTMUDD02"

    Well lets put it this way I am not doing it because of the weight although it is an added benifit, and I would'nt do it if it was heavier but it is alot stronger than steel. My uncle siad he can get some for me for a good price and he would do the fabin for me. I havent featherd out all the details yet but it looks like it will be cheaper for me to do that than to buy all of them out of Q-tec or somewhere else.


    IMHO I think it'd be a waste to fab these in titanium...1/4 steel is plenty strong for a skid and is cheap! One thing to to keep in mind if you're serious about the TI is the welding process is more complicated than steel...it's very senstive to contaminents, although MIG can be used TIG is preferred and you _must_ backpurge the weld w/ argon or an argon/helium mix.


    --Ian

  • Here are two things to consider before making the skid out of titanium. First is what I like to call the sledge hammer and finish nail theory. Sure the Titanium is stronger than plate steel but this presents problems. Look at bumpers and consider why they are not made of the thickest materials possible. The answer is found in energy transfer, with an engine skid made of 3/16" steel, you will have some of the energy transfer from a hard hit into bending of the steel. Look at most commercially available engine skids and you will see they are made from 3/16 instead of 1/4. This lessens the stress on mounting points with some energy transfer going to the deformation of the skid. With you mounting points most likely being on the bellhousing, lessening the stress loads on those points is probably in your best interest.


    Point 2 is mounting hardware, most bolts available these days contain cadmium, mixing cadmium and titanium causes a di-electric reaction where in both metals start corroding at a faster rate than normal. I am sure you can get around this with special hardware but this also adds to the cost of the skid.


    Now if you can get teh materials and special hardware and the fabrication done for less than a steel skid than what the hell but if it is even close, I would go with steel.

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