Stretching the tj

  • HELLO DJA!!! I'm excited to join this association and ready to crawl. For the last time I will be changing the suspension on my Tj. I want to do something like a Clayton's 5.5 pro series 7" stretch, double triangulated 4 link rear and a three link front. Any in put is greatly appreciated. And also if anyone knows any shop or someone that could help me with the install or give me some pointers. I will be relocating the gas tank very soon to prepare. Thank you in advance

  • I have built about a half dozen of custom suspensions. First dont start with anything thats a kit. Second plan on coilovers or ori shocks. Third to do it right costs around 12k by the time u buy axles, suspension and shocks. Also make it as low as possible. On 40's im lower then most short arm tjs. Oh yea dont forget a few grand on steering and tires.


    Aaron


    Mine and another i built in moab


  • Aaron is our club builder for sure, he has built several rigs in the club including mine. Call him and tell him what your goals, I'm sure he can come design what ever you want to fit your needs. Def go with custom built vs the kit, way better.

  • I have experience with machining but none in custom suspension work. Im okay with 12k just in steps. I want to build a solid rig and a wheel it often, I just don't have the resources to build it. I was also thinking about a used rig to save myself the hassel. I wish I had the ability to trailer it but Having a trailer queen is just not possible at this time because I live at Claymont fire station. Btw I meet you at Rausch creek on the o trail when u went "full retard" as you stated after you made it.

  • I understand the whole "custom" thing but when it comes to double triangulated crossmembers, wouldn't it just be easier and faster to buy a prefabricated one from Clayton or Genright and just burn it in. The quality is there and it's just a lot less headache. :shrug:


    This: Genright
    or
    This: CLAYTON


  • I have experience with machining but none in custom suspension work. Im okay with 12k just in steps. I want to build a solid rig and a wheel it often, I just don't have the resources to build it. I was also thinking about a used rig to save myself the hassel. I wish I had the ability to trailer it but Having a trailer queen is just not possible at this time because I live at Claymont fire station. Btw I meet you at Rausch creek on the o trail when u went "full retard" as you stated after you made it.


    Since you are using your Jeep on the road and you want to run a double triangulated rear, make sure you get a good sway bar for the rear. You'll get more roll with that system and a stock anti-sway bar just won't cut it.


    Buying a used rig is always a good option as you'll usually get more value since upgrades never increase the resale value as much as they should.

  • I'm not set on any suspension set up. That's just the design of the top of the line kit. My main goal is 100" wheel base and 37s. What ever the best set up and way to get there is the path I'll take. That kit has maybe 1000$ Worth of material in it so I'm paying 2000 for a design that isn't ideal. And doesn't have air shocks. When is the next meet up?

  • SO, the first thing you should do is figure out exactly what your goals are. Are you going to drive it on the street and wheel it or just a trail rig. That will make a big difference in how you build it and the end design. I would suggest reaching out to Aaron and talk to him about what you really want to accomplish with your build. There is more involved than just tossing a long arm kit on it and 37's. If you want to run 37's you are either going to do axle swap or build what you have up and not wheel it hard. You will break running 37's, ask me how I know. LOL. You are welcome to come check my rig out and see what we did with it, Aaron built a sick ass cross member system on mine.

  • I think I remember talking to you that day too. I was in the I'd green tj with the orange cage. Definitely hit up Aaron to discuss a plan. I bought my rig and it kinda works for me but Aaron will be rebuilding it this winter to make it more gooder.

  • Had a conversation with Aaron and decided that we will be building a one ton Tj. I'm looking to run 37s on the street and 40s on the trail. First thing one the shopping list is axles and the famous 78-79 high pinion Dana 60 kingpin comes up. I have found 4 so far all in the same price range of 1700$, the closest one being north of Harris burg from a company called hillbilly wizard. He also sells 14 bolts for 350$. Atlas 2, 14" ori, full hydro steering. So I'll be collecting parts for about the next year lol. If you have any of these items or seen a better deal let me know.


  • Had a conversation with Aaron and decided that we will be building a one ton Tj. I'm looking to run 37s on the street and 40s on the trail. First thing one the shopping list is axles and the famous 78-79 high pinion Dana 60 kingpin comes up. I have found 4 so far all in the same price range of 1700$, the closest one being north of Harris burg from a company called hillbilly wizard. He also sells 14 bolts for 350$. Atlas 2, 14" ori, full hydro steering. So I'll be collecting parts for about the next year lol. If you have any of these items or seen a better deal let me know.



    is full hydro steering street legal? i thought you could only run up to hydro-assist on the road. im not sure, but remember hearing it somewhere. def something to look into. even if it is legal, you want to consider the safety aspect of blowing a line when you're going into a turn at speed

  • You can pick up a decent 78-79 ford front axle for $900 junk yard fresh. They are all over pirate 4x4 already built for close to the price you posted. I purchased an entire running and driving doner truck with a plow and an extra set of 3/4 ton axles for $1500. Check all the forums including rausch creeks and pirate.

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
    2000 Cherokee Police package, Beater....


    I may be slowest and the stupidest

  • Eric-I've heard it is legal but that the road feel through the steering wheel is left wanting. However, with that said, even if my assist stopped working, I don't think I could turn the tires with only the box, so if something broke I would be SOL anyway and it would veer where it wants to. I bought all new lines and fittings (probably the only new parts on the jeep)

  • I'm sure billy can chime in here, but im 99% sure full hydro is illegal in PA as well as DE. However, does the inspector really know that.....?

  • If you intend to keep it on the street I'd highly suggest using a 88-91.5 d60 instead of a 78-79. If you shorten the long side 3.4" (if memory serves) and run a 78-79 shaft on that side it'll be 66.5" wide (most 60 and 14 bolt rears are in the 65-66" range). That little bit goes a long way when inspection time comes around....not to mention the later axles aren't considered as desirable.


    --Ian

  • Quote

    I'm sure billy can chime in here, but im 99% sure full hydro is illegal in PA as well as DE. However, does the inspector really know that.....?



    No and they probably won't look. But should something go wrong and an ACCIDENT results then you're potentially opening a can of worms you don't want open.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats



  • No and they probably won't look. But should something go wrong and an ACCIDENT results then you're potentially opening a can of worms you don't want open.


    1. DE, would not likely notice,
    2. PA, would probably see
    3. Not DOT legal All 50 states. (has no failover)

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !


  • If you intend to keep it on the street I'd highly suggest using a 88-91.5 d60 instead of a 78-79. If you shorten the long side 3.4" (if memory serves) and run a 78-79 shaft on that side it'll be 66.5" wide (most 60 and 14 bolt rears are in the 65-66" range). That little bit goes a long way when inspection time comes around....not to mention the later axles aren't considered as desirable.


    --Ian


    I never heard of this process. Do you have any more info? I read Bellavistas bible on the Dana 60 and 14 bolt like 5 times so far and reference it all the time. Here's my shopping list so far. I still have a lot of questions like how to set up the atlas 2 or which hydro assist set to go with. I Want to make this list pretty specific so I can purchase parts over time and put it all together at once.


    ONE TON TJ PROJECT


    78-79 Dana 60
    Cooperate 14 bolt
    16 1 1/4 heims
    14" ori struts
    Atlas 2 transfer case
    Drive shafts front and rear
    42" tires on 17" rims
    37" tires on 17" rims
    5.36 gears
    Lockers for both axles
    Prp passenger seat
    new exhaust
    20' of tubing


  • What's a good email for you? I have a relativly complete list for mine that I'm hoping to rebuild this winter. The list has part numbers, vendors, prices, etc etc. It might be a good starting point for you.

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