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  • Hey guys, just got my first jeep and it's a 1996 xj with a 4.0l, aw4 trans, np231, rear Chrysler 8.25, front hp Dana 30 with 3.55 gears.


    My build plan : paint + bedline, unibody stiffeners, light bar, bds 6.5" long arm lift, 35x12.5x15 Mickey Thompson Baja mtz p3 tires on 15x10 steel d ring wheels, ford 8.8 rear axle swap with 4.56 gears + Yukon c clip eliminator with chromoly shafts + ox air locker + iro truss, iro slip yoke eliminator with custom rear driveshaft, tentative front axle plan is iro trussed hp Dana 30 + chromoly axle shafts + 4.56 gears + ox air locker.


    Let me know what you think! New to the wheeling game so constructive input on anything is welcomed and appreciated thanks!

  • Hey guys, just got my first jeep and it's a 1996 xj with a 4.0l, aw4 trans, np231, rear Chrysler 8.25, front hp Dana 30 with 3.55 gears.


    My build plan : paint + bedline, unibody stiffeners, light bar, bds 6.5" long arm lift, 35x12.5x15 Mickey Thompson Baja mtz p3 tires on 15x10 steel d ring wheels, ford 8.8 rear axle swap with 4.56 gears + Yukon c clip eliminator with chromoly shafts + ox air locker + iro truss, iro slip yoke eliminator with custom rear driveshaft, tentative front axle plan is iro trussed hp Dana 30 + chromoly axle shafts + 4.56 gears + ox air locker.


    Let me know what you think! New to the wheeling game so constructive input on anything is welcomed and appreciated thanks!

    My God that is some plan you got there!! Can't wait to see the finished rig!!


    Oh yeah, welcome to the forum. :thumbup:

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • Welcome fellow XJer! :wavey:

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

  • Welcome to the club. Be sure to post pics of the progress so we can all live the work with you. :D


    :welder: So it should all be done before Christmas, right?

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Welcome!!! :wavey:


    That axle combo, (especially the 8.8) should hold up OK for 35's. 33's might make it more street worthy though. I've wheeled with several XJ's on 33's that were incredible. Just a thought.


    Also, I wasn't a fan of my OX locker when I had the manual one and the air locker seemed to have a fitting on the side that was prone to damage just like the manual one. If you had to go air, I guess I'd have to say ARB even though they suck too.


    Think about a Aussie locker or better yet a Detroit for reliability. They work great on long wheel based Jeeps like the XJ. If you need a selectable, the electronic lockers seem to be more reliable than the air from what I've seen.


    Anyway....good luck!!!

  • Thanks everyone for the well wishes!

  • Not trying to sway you the wrong way but since you said it's a DD, 33's would probably be better than 35's. You'll still crush it off road.


    Maybe an XJ guy will chime in.



    I think an auto locker would be fine in an XJ. I run them in my TJ and don't have any issues other than maybe snow. An Aussie is an easy install since the ring stays in but if you are regearing anyway, just spend the money on a Detroit to get the stronger carrier.

  • I might go down to 33s when I wear down the 35s but I got a great deal on them so I just went for it. I'm going to have it all apart so I just need to decide on what to go with. Do you have any opinion on the Hp d30? I've heard and read mixed things about it being fine with 35s and my upgrades and others said that I should leave in stock shafts so they break instead of the ring and pinion. what else would be my option for the front ?

  • I'm running Eaton E-Lockers, but I like the idea of the Ox. Here's a write up on the Ox: http://www.4x4review.com/ox-locker-review/ Apparently the routing of the cable is key, and the cable design has been improved. You can also get an electric actuator that works through a short cable, eliminating most of the routing issues. And there's a tool you can get to lock and unlock at the diff if all else fails. It ends up being more expensive than the E-Locker, but you don't have to buy a diff cover.

  • I'm running Eaton E-Lockers, but I like the idea of the Ox. Here's a write up on the Ox: http://www.4x4review.com/ox-locker-review/ Apparently the routing of the cable is key, and the cable design has been improved. You can also get an electric actuator that works through a short cable, eliminating most of the routing issues. And there's a tool you can get to lock and unlock at the diff if all else fails. It ends up being more expensive than the E-Locker, but you don't have to buy a diff cover.

    that was one of the articles I read in order to first decide to go with the ox but I figured Air selectable since on board Air is a good idea for tools + airing tires up correct ?

  • You have very ambitious plans. The build you describe is not very dissimilar to mine. I built mine more for the trails, but continued to DD it until (as some DeJA members might here attest) after years of beating the hell out of it, it became undriveable on the street.


    The extensivity of your outlined plan will be expensive, but planning ahead as such will actually save you money in the long run. I am not the only person who did a mild build to their rig, then wanted bigger, and later wanted even bigger, badder, more - and spent a small fortune in the process as compared to doing it that way in the first place.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

  • cool thanks! Any opinions on my front axle? Can the d30 hold up to the 35s + 4.56 + locker?

    fwiw, I have a lp d30 with 4.88s, an ox, and 35's. I don't wheel it crazy hard, but do blacks at rausch and have never had a problem. it depends on your wheeling style. if you want to hammer down and smoke the tires, then go with 1 ton axles. if you are more on the smooth and steady side of the spectrum, you should be ok

  • You have very ambitious plans. The build you describe is not very dissimilar to mine. I built mine more for the trails, but continued to DD it until (as some DeJA members might here attest) after years of beating the hell out of it, it became undriveable on the street.


    The extensivity of your outlined plan will be expensive, but planning ahead as such will actually save you money in the long run. I am not the only person who did a mild build to their rig, then wanted bigger, and later wanted even bigger, badder, more - and spent a small fortune in the process as compared to doing it that way in the first place.

    Thanks ! I started out planning to spend 2000$ on a lift and tires just to make it look good but then found out it would be crap in a couple of years and that's a lot of money to throw away, so I decided to do a bunch of research and ask around and build a rig that's done right and has some serious capability but without spending boat loads of money.

  • fwiw, I have a lp d30 with 4.88s, an ox, and 35's. I don't wheel it crazy hard, but do blacks at rausch and have never had a problem. it depends on your wheeling style. if you want to hammer down and smoke the tires, then go with 1 ton axles. if you are more on the smooth and steady side of the spectrum, you should be ok

    no I'll be creeping my way along, I don't want to go out and break everything in one shot . Do you like the 4.88s better than if you had 4.56? I was on the fence on which to choose and elected 4.56 since it'll be a DD and figured if I needed more gearing I could get a t case doubler or the atlas 2 later on

  • Let me know what you think! New to the wheeling game so constructive input on anything is welcomed and appreciated thanks!


    I'm not sure where to start. Wait, yes I do.


    You want to wheel it, but did not mention armor. I'll guess there are elements of your build that you did not put in your described plan, and hopefully armor is one of them. Wheeling an armored stock rig is far preferable to wheeling a naked built rig. IMO

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

  • You want to wheel it, but did not mention armor. I'll guess there are elements of your build that you did not put in your described plan, and hopefully armor is one of them. Wheeling an armored stock rig is far preferable to wheeling a naked built rig. IMO

    And don't forget to reinforce the steering box, right John?

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