When trannys go bad...

cjgeek · May 1st 2006

So I went to pick up a rack and cage for my CJ north of B-more and made it up and most of the way back (within 10 miles of home) when I noticed I was keeping the RPMs but moving slower and slower. Once the guy moved from my side after dropping over20MPH!!! I was able to limp to the shoulder and get flatbedded home (how embarassing!). The jeep was locked in neutral. The one person who stopped was a fellow jeeper (OF COURSE).

The day before I knew it was starting to act up but thought it would hold out for a while or use some ultra-secret self-healing power. I am rigged for flat towing but lost the pins in my garage for the cotter pins to hold it to the front bumper. Went 3 different places looking for the correct length pins. Since I couldn't find them I knew I was pre-destined to break down.

Anyways...my symptoms were previously a grindy 4th if trying to do a quick shift (slow shift is fine)...on way home from B-more it popped out of gear twice...had a hard time with 3rd..and then refused to go in any gear (over a course of an hour or so). Then after towing it would go into gear once it was in my driveway (of course). I haven't checked the fluids yet and plan to flush them out this weekend and check for metal but I'm figuring on some tranny work. My friend felt that if the fluid got low for some reason that would explain why it unseized itself after it cooled down? I show no apparent leaks and the engine itself seems fine.

Question: Should I bother with a rebuild (I have a 360 with a T5 currently) or try to snag a T18 or other tranny from ebay or somewhere? I'd hate to spend the money to rebuild and only to kick myself later and find out I could have used the $ better.

Your thoughts? Thanks!

tedsbumper · May 1st 2006

T-18 all the way; especially behind that V -8. I just swapped one into my Jeep and it's a beast. It's a much heavier duty transmission. You could rebuild that T-5 or replace it with another of the same and eat it up in no time if you're pushing any kind of power.

If you find one, I get first dibs. That's the cost of my advice.

jeepman · May 2nd 2006

t-5s are rated as light duty,the t-18 is the best choice, or a t-176,it is rated as med. duty.i have a t-5 4-sale but it is not enough tranny for that motor.good luck.

cjgeek · May 2nd 2006

Thanks for the response. I'll check around and see if I get lucky and find a T18. If anyone has one for sale just let me know

cjgeek · May 2nd 2006

I found a T18 and has the following on ebay that I think I will bid on but not sure of value...

"with constant velocity dirveshaft, bellhousing to fit AMC V8 304,360, 390, or 401 engine, and Dana 20 transfer case. The driveshaft alone is worth $200. Easy modification required to make it fit a CJ. Great condition. On a pallet, ready to ship or pick up. This is the transmission that gives a CJ an incredibly low crawl ratio. Put it in granny gear and go anywhere. "

I asked the miles on the vehicle from the truck it came out of and known condition and got the following response...

"I don't know the miles on the truck that it came from, but I am confident that the internals are in good condition. I simply moved the shifter through the gears and it feels tight and sure. I can only guarantee that it will not arrive DOA. This would be an ideal replacement for your tranny, the difference in mudding and crawling would be trememndous. "

With my CJ what else would be necessary to mate it up? How much labor on average do you think it would take? I have dealt before with one of the AAMCOs before and they treated me fairly but they won't even give me a range and I thought I could hear them cringing on the other end of the phone. I also thought it best for them to crack it open and inspect. Your thoughts/opinions? Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!

**Slimer** · May 2nd 2006

The T5s use a different bell housing I believe. So you may need a bell housing from a T150 or T18. You will definately need the skid plate as well, or make your own. You'll need the Dana 20 t-case or an adapter to hook up your Dana 300. Dana 20 t-cases are cheap and easy to find. The crawl ratio of the T18s 1rst gear makes up for the 2:1 low range of the Dana 20. But actually, for the price you'll pay for an adapter for the Dana 300 you could spend a little more and get Lo-max gearing for the Dana 20. That will give you a good low range and not shorten the rear drive shaft any.

I'm not sure if your current clutch, flywheel, pilot bushing, or pressure plate will work.

jeepman · May 2nd 2006

clutch,pressure plate,t/o bearing and pilot bushing are all differant,plus drive-shaft lengths wiil change.floor pan cover is also differant.

Randallman · May 2nd 2006

Quote from "jeepman"

clutch,pressure plate,t/o bearing and pilot bushing are all differant,plus drive-shaft lengths wiil change.floor pan cover is also differant.

Why not just a good old SM420? It's like a 7something:1 first gear!

Or an nv4500 swap? Granted, the NV4500 is going to cost a bit more, but you'll NEVER need another trans in a vehicle as light as our jeeps... I love my nv4500 and I wouldnt trade it for the world... Well almost... I'd love that NV5600, but I doubt that the extra length would justify the extra overdrive

--Randall

Rob Smith · May 2nd 2006

Quote from "Randallman"

Why not just a good old SM420? It's like a 7something:1 first gear!

--Randall

7.05:1 First gear. There will be one in my Jeep in the future, just dont know when...

blueyedevil · May 2nd 2006

Quote from "Slimer"

The T5s use a different bell housing I believe. So you may need a bell housing from a T150 or T18. You will definately need the skid plate as well, or make your own. You'll need the Dana 20 t-case or an adapter to hook up your Dana 300. Dana 20 t-cases are cheap and easy to find. The crawl ratio of the T18s 1rst gear makes up for the 2:1 low range of the Dana 20. But actually, for the price you'll pay for an adapter for the Dana 300 you could spend a little more and get Lo-max gearing for the Dana 20. That will give you a good low range and not shorten the rear drive shaft any.

I'm not sure if your current clutch, flywheel, pilot bushing, or pressure plate will work.

i know that the bellhousing from a cj 7 with 258 and sr-4 tranny will work.. that bellhousing was a near universal.. all the allignment points were there you just have to drill and tap mounting holes... thats what was in roper72's CJ when i sold it to him...

cjgeek · May 3rd 2006

Well I bit the bullet and bought the one on ebay. A risk I know but I got it for $300 for a T18 w/D20, BH, CV driveshaft. I'm going to pick it up in the next few weeks and then have it looked at by a shop. Did a fair amount of websurfing and the swap doesn't seem to be too bad. Thanks for helping me out.

blueyedevil · May 4th 2006

its not bad.. its just heavy.. i bench pressed mine into place because i couldn't afford a tranny jack at the time..
the good old days when workin on the jeep came before bills

**Slimer** · May 4th 2006

Quote from "cjgeek"

Well I bit the bullet and bought the one on ebay. A risk I know but I got it for $300 for a T18 w/D20, BH, CV driveshaft. I'm going to pick it up in the next few weeks and then have it looked at by a shop. Did a fair amount of websurfing and the swap doesn't seem to be too bad. Thanks for helping me out.

That's an awesome price for a T18 alone. A CJ T18 usually go for the $600 range. This IS a CJ T18 right? The Ford, and J-truck T18s will need an input shaft exchange.

Rebuild kits are $150 and very complete. You'll need to know whether the two main bearings are the same width or different widths before ordering the rebuild kit.

cjgeek · May 4th 2006

This is the link to what I purchased...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors…pagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT

It was from a J Series truck unknown what year. I should get the serial number today hopefully. I still don't know if it is the T18A yet but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Input shaft exchange..ug...looks like I need to find a place that sells a kit (input shaft, pilot bushing, new bearing retainer)...I missed that thanks. Looks like I'll need a clutch and relative pieces, flywheel resurfaced, possibly a new skid plate (hopefully current T5 may be used), input shaft kit, will have to wait and see about the shafts to see if I need them resized (coming with CV rear shaft from same truck), may have to change my exhaust to single, and make sure the tranny and transfer and in good condition (or rebuilt) prior. Did I miss anything?

jeepman · May 5th 2006

the j-10 and j-20s have that 5 inch adaptor plate on it because it is a truck,but it will work,i have the same set up in a cj 5,but driveshafts will be way to long.i have done a few of these so feel free wiyh any questions.

**Slimer** · May 5th 2006

Hoak's 4WD in York used to sell the input shafts but there were so many different versions of the T18 I think they may need to see it to determine if an input shaft is available. You could always have your input shaft machined down.

cjgeek · May 17th 2006

well...I plan on picking it up on Friday on a pallet. I thought it would be easy to get a mechanic to get it looked at and either at the same time or a later date get it put in but was wrong. Many of them don't want to deal with the manual transmissions. You'd think I was asking a couple of them to sacrifice their pets when I tell them I want to drop it by and inspect it for me! Anyone know of a person who can pop open a T18 and transfer case and make sure it is up to snuff before installation?

as an fyi... the S/Ns I was told are below...definitely a T18
C185246
13-01-097-901
018-19-44
T18-1BG
WGDIT

**Slimer** · May 17th 2006

I've opened both and rebuilt a few transfer cases, as well as my T18 (with the help of a good friend). I haven't done enough T18s to feel confident in doing them alone.

What I would do is put the tranny in each gear and spin the output shaft by hand. That should help determine if there are any serious issues. Listen for odd noises, feel for any wierd motions, and check the input and output shafts for any slop. If it doesn't want to shift, remove the top plate (which you need to do for visual inspection anyway) and clean and lube the rods the shift forks are attached to (on the top plate). Mine were froze from sitting for a while and the fact that my tranny had gotten water in it.

I've not been in a Dana 300 but I can't imagine it being much different than a Dana 18 or Dana 20.

cjgeek · May 17th 2006

Thanks I'll give it a try myself first and see how it is.

When trannys go bad...

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