Posts by deadfeat

    Quote from "James"

    Hey I worked at radio shack as a Sales Associate for a summer. I resent your last remark. I knew what the customer needed (usually it involved my foot and their ass) and I would sell it to them as well as what they didn't need :maul: (It makes you feel dirty like a used car salesman). The rest is true as well as the last remark.


    If you need a couple of resistors or other discreet electrical components, RS is ok but I would not buy any AV stuff or other finished products there.


    just my 2 cents


    James, please take no offense, it's not really the salesman or a personal attack on anyone specific, but the corporation and it's lack of focus on quality. When I was very involved in electronics, (EE in collage) I remember buying a pack of 555 timer ICs and almost all were bad, then I tested a pack of diodes, many were bad and others burned before their rated current was exceeded. Then I tested a multi pack of resistors. Almost all of them were outside the tolerance. I tested them on a wheatsone bridge. Pretty much I put them in the catagory of Pepboys and Steel Horse.


    Steve

    Quote


    Whats wrong with Radio Shack? :shrug:


    Well, I'll tell you...


    RS buys sub standard and rejected electronic components, and resells them at 10x what a good part should sell for. They will resell reburbished items as new. Essentially, they are money and not customer focused. RS doesn't make anything, they just have cheap overseas child labor make thier crap and sell it as if it is an American product. No offense to thse who may have radio shack products, I'm sure there are some OK things, but pretty much RS is just like Steel Horse in my book. Also dont trust the salesman either, usually they know knothing about what you need.


    Steve


    [/quote]

    Quote from "DrJ"

    How do Grands get away with dual beam headlights and fogs? That's six lights on.


    Does Radio Shack still sell this kind of stuff?


    DrJ


    First, In the factory configuration when you turn on your high beams, your fogs go off.


    Second, Run, don't walk away from Radio Shack. I'm sure you can find a lighting relay kit from other Auto Zone or something. Radio Shack can kiss my shinney metal ass.


    Steve (not that hostile)

    I installed a new Diehard Silver battery at lunch today. She fired right up and all gauges are stable. the Voltage gauge reads 14v steady. I am hopping that this does the trick. The factory battery is 6 years old and had 85,000 miles on it. I suppose that is pretty good. We drove it around for about 10 miles and so far so good.


    Thanks all for the advice.


    Steve

    Jim,


    That would be great. Also, can you PM me your phone number? I am going to replace the battery (it's 5 years old anyway) then drive it home to work on it (right now its at my office.) Then I can do more testing.


    Thnaks
    Steve

    After cleaning the bat terminals, it started and ran ok but the voltage meter was showing 10-12v. Not it's normal 14v. Then after about 10 min. I turned it off and it would not start again. The battery no longer had enough guts to start it. The solinoid just went click-click-click.


    So Alternator right? Picked up a replacement alternator at Christiana Auto (Open to 8pm :up: ) They guy told me that the voltage regulator is not in the alternator but in a power modual or in the computer. How stupid is that? Anyway, If I install the $130 alt, I cant return it. If I install it and it's not the problem I may have to replace the computer.


    So now I have to figure out the right diagnostic. Any help out there in Internet land?


    Steve

    Ok, I bought a OBD II scanner at Pepboys in Newark for $88.00 on sale :up:


    Scaned and got no codes back. I also cleaned the battery terminals real well and reconnected. Seems ok for now.


    Thanks for the input. Linyee, I will check out the IAC issue next if this problem comes back. Good to have a OBC II reader either way. Cheap insurance.


    Steve

    We just started have a problem our 99 XJ Sport with a 4.0L Auto


    Symptoms:
    1. Engine cut out after momentarily starting. Would not hold idle, but could keep it running by revving. Then everything turned off. Nothing at the key. Then wait a min and it would start then idle ok. This has happened 3 times.


    2. While driving the gauge light came on and voltage gauge pinned to the right. Then radio went off. A few moments later the gauge light went off and everything returned to normal.



    I plan to disconnect the battery, and clean the terminals at lunch. Hopping that it’s only a flaky connection. How much does a code reader cost for this Jeep. Any ideas what might be wrong? This is the wife’s Jeep and I need it to be dependable for her.


    Thanks,


    Steve

    No teams, but you can have as many rods as you wish. About the bait, squid is a great all purpose bait and it stays on the hook well. Many others have a hard time staying on when you cast. Pealers are the worst for staying on but a great bait. You have to change it very often because it looses it's flavour too fast. Belive it or not, but raw chicken really works well. Cut the white meet into strips. Another good trick is to marinate your bait for a day or two before if you use squid or chicken. Use the spray on fish attractant.


    Steve

    There was a article in Petersons a few issues ago with a 2 step paint process to make them look like anodized aluminum. They said the result was amazing and it comes in a bunch of colors.


    Steve

    Just to reinterate, the 2.5l breaths just fine. In and out. There is very little bolt on you can do to a 2.5l that will give any significant power upgrade. Here is what will make a difference..


    Rimmer super charger. Big bucks, may as well drop in a vortec.


    Rebuild and cam. When I had my 2.5l YJ, I dropped in a new long block that was like .40 over and a RV cam. That was a great power gain.

    Last: Gears, user your power effecintly.


    Steve