Posts by jonzjeepyj

I agree, I was just trying to use what I have. I think I will take a trip to Eastern Marine
and see what they have. They have a lot of marker lights that are 12V. Maybe I could
find something that would work better.

I measured 9" in the rear and 7" up front. I just needed another 2 inches up front so I started hacking and Cutting. I finished the one side and took some pics. I used my YJ fender flairs but cut the fenders out and moved them up. I had to lay the side marker light down flat but all and all I think It came out pretty good. I'll finish the other side up tomorrow. Here are some Pics......

Just trimmed YJ fender flairs








Hack and Cut Flat Fenders (Passenger-Right Side Only)

Will take some and post on Wednesday.

Power goes through the auto shut down relay, first, before it goes to the fuel relay.
Try swapping out the horn relay with the ASD relay to see if you can get the fuel pump
to prime. I have plenty of spare relays you can have if it's a bad relay. Let us know
how you make out.

I can't believe what a difference it made in the ride quality over the original
body bushings. It also added 1" of lift but more importantly, it really smoothed
out the ride. I broke 3 out of 11 bolts and had to grind out the floor pan, with
a cutting wheel to access the spun/snapped bolts. Total install time, by myself
was 2.5 hrs. Not bad.

[size=3]Has anyone had this big of a difference, in ride quality, like I did?[/size]

I need help !

I have diagnosed, checked, verified, pulled, tugged, ohm checked, continuity checked,
eliminated, part swapped, cleaned, replaced, by-passed and re-checked everything on
my jeep and can't find out why it is suddenly shutting off. I have....

Replaced...
ECM-1.5 years ago
cam sensor less then 1 year ago
CCS less then 6 months ago
MAP recently
TPS recently
ASD relay
Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel pump and sending unit 1.5 years ago
super coil - Plugs - live wires - rotor - Cap
Pulled exhaust manifold and inspected for cracks
pulled intake manifold and inspected and cleaned
pulled TB cleaned and inspected
pulled, cleaned and ohm tested injectors. All rang out at 16.5 ohms
tested pin 3 on ECU for power
pin 9, 11, 12 with key in on position tested out
checked vac lines
replaced battery cables
checked grounds

I'm not pulling any codes??

I'm at a loss?????

Since I replaced the ECM 1.5 years ago, I would like to try someone else's ECU to verify
that it is my problem before I drop another 225.00 on a new one.

Any takers?

91-95 YJ
2.5L - 5 speed
can anyone swing by and let me swap out ECM's to verify?

I went for a long ride to Quadratec to give the Jeep some run time and to pick up the
ignition upgrade kit. I purchased a Precision Distributor Ignition Kit with a super coil,
rotor, cap, and a set of Live Wires. While driving it cut out on me and I was able to pull
some codes now.

Here they are.....
Blue is OK
Red needs attention

12 Battery Disconnected in last 50 key cycles
27 Fuel injector control
33 A/C relay open
52 O2 sensor rich
54 Distributor sync pickup
62 EMR (emissions maintenance reminder)
55 End of test

54) distributor sync pickup is easy enough to replace
52) O2 sensor is easy enough to replace
27) Fuel injector control ? Hmmmmmm

Please help,

John

OK, I agree. But first you must know that I did an E-Fan swap with only a 10" fan. For the most
part it cools OK but can get toward the top end of acceptable range of 110-115. After I took out
the therm and ran the E-Fan continuously, it would hang around 165-180 range. It is running much
cooler but not cold by any means. I bought this E-Fan used and it was a bolt and go with brackets,
adjustable therm and relay. I will upgrade to the Taurus fan but haven't had any time off during the
day when the Pick and pull is open. I'm off next week so I'll try and pick one up. I don't think this is
why I'm hiccuping and stumbling on acceleration.

Any suggestions?

I have been chasing this phantom electrical problem now for over 2 years. I goes away and comes back. Lately, I has been driving me crazy. My YJ just stops running while driving. It leaves me stranded, late for work and sitting along the roadside wiggling wires and banging and tapping until it decides to start again. Here is what I know....

replaced the fuel sending unit 1.5 years ago
replaced cam position sensor 8 mths ago
replaced distributor sensor 3 mths ago
Replaced the ECU 1.5 years ago
Replaced the TPS 11 mths ago
Replaced the Coil 11 mths ago
Replaces the MAP sensor 4 mths ago
Tested the Auto shut off relay recent
Tested the Fuel relay recent
Fuel pump engages and there is fuel pressure
Motor cranks but doesn't start

This last time I went to start it in the morning and it wouldn't start, I banged and beat on everything I could think of. When it finally started and I started driving down the road, I noticed I had lost all presets on my radio. This tells me it's a ground problem.

I shook and tugged on all grounds with no luck of it cutting off.

Could it be in the key ignition?
I think I have it fixed because it goes away for a while only to return. It was fine now for three days until tonight when I went to get my hair cut. It cut out on me three times. I waited for about 15-20 sec and it restarted.

I pulled some codes and this is what I got.....

11. No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
12. Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles.
23. Intake manifold air temperature sensor input above max or below min acceptable voltage.
33. An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit.
42. An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit.
51. Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation.
52. Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio condition during engine operation.
53. PCM internal fault condition detected.
54. No fuel sync (camshaft signal) detected during engine cranking.
62. Unsuccessful attempt to update SRI (service reminder indicator) miles in the PCM EEPROM.
55. Completion of diagnostic trouble code display on the malfunction indicator lamp.
______________________________________________________________________________

OK, Here is an explanation of some of what the signals could be...

11. I pulled the Crank Case Sensor while it was idling ?
12. Not sure. I haven't pulled the battery cable but I did loose all presets to the radio, once, a few
days ago. It hasn't happened again since.
23. Not sure? Bad sensor?
33. No AC
42. I pulled the auto shutdown relay and pinched all the connections to make sure they were tight.
51. and 52. Bad O2 sensor possibly?
53. Intermittent PCM problem? Would this cause a shutdown while driving?
54. Hmmmmmm ? ? Is this the one in the distributor? If it is I replaced it about 5-6 months ago thinking
it was the problem.
62. Don't care.
55. OK

11-53-54 is what concerns me.
23-51-52 can be fixed easily but aren't the cause of my problem. OK, I just grounded the Pos battery cable to the Neg Battery cable for 1 min to drain all caps in the ECM. I have successfully cleared the ECM of all codes except 12-33-55 which are all OK. I will now carry a pen and pocket notebook and wait for it to happen and see what codes come up now. I ended up spending lots of money with a " Mechanic " that told me it was this and that, 2 years ago when I purchased it. I have learned a lot in the last 2 years and I'm trying to figure this one out myself. I have beat and tugged and pulled and banged on the relays, wires, harness, and plugs while it was running, without it cutting off. WTF ! I don't know.

I pulled the ASD and the Fuel relay out, pulled the wires off the fuse housing and pinched them so they were tight. Replaced everything and it has been OK for 2 days now.

Now there is another problem.

For the last 2 days it hasn't been shutting off anymore and not starting????? It is now doing an acceleration putter or hickup. It almost shuts off but catches itself? No codes as of yet. It did sputter and die a few times at an idol. It has gotten a little better and under a heavy foot, it sputters and hick ups. Under an easy pedal, it's hit or miss. I purchased new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. Installed all with no change. It needed it anyway. It was 2 years ago when I did a tune up after I purchased it.

Is this due to me clearing the ECU and it having to re learn all the upgrades I have done?

19# injectors
bored out intake manifold
4.0L TB
high flow/cold air intake

I also took out the Thermostat to help it run cooler.

Are these problems due to ......

not getting up to temp and not having the O2 sensor kick in?
ECU relearning the new mixtures after clearing?
Cracked exhaust Manifold?

I have been chasing this phantom electrical problem now for over 2 years. I goes away and comes back. Lately, I has been driving me crazy. My YJ just stops running while driving. It leaves me stranded, late for work and sitting along the roadside wiggling wires and banging and tapping until it decides to start again. Here is what I know....

replaced the fuel sending unit
replaced cam position sensor
replaced distributor sensor
Replaced the ECU
Replaced the TPS
Tested the Auto shut off relay
Tested the Fuel relay
Fuel pump engages and there is fuel pressure
Motor cranks but doesn't start

This last time I went to start it in the morning and it wouldn't start, I banged and beat on everything I could think of. When it finally started and I started driving down the road, I noticed I had lost all presets on my radio. This tells me it's a ground problem.

I shook and tugged on all grounds with no luck of it cutting off.

Could it be in the key ignition?

I'm at a loss. Please Help !

John

OK, I checked vac lines and CCV system and all seemed good. I ended up cutting
3 fingers off a vinyl glove and using electrical tape to hold them over the end of the
dipstick tube, after removing the dipstick. I Cleaned the motor, AGAIN, and ran it for
2 days. No Oil or any Blow-by in the engine compartment or on the motor. I ordered
a new dipstick from the dealer for $18.00 and problem solved.

I absolutely can not find this oil leak. I need a second pair of eyes to
look at this and see what you can see. I have tried everything. It's on
the top, rear, passenger side. Here is what I have checked and eliminated....

Valve cover gasket has been replaced
oil sending unit is dry
distributor gasket and clip has been replaced
changed oil filter and it is tight
Aaron and I replaced my clutch and eliminated the rear main seal
valve cover check valve
oil fill cap has been replaced.

as far up as the oil is, it covers my distributor, plugs, firewall. starter and
cap and coil, I don't think it's the oil pan gasket. I'm leaning towards my
dipstick, either at the block or coming out the top end at the stick. I really
don't know what else it could be.

It really got worse all of a sudden and I have degreased the motor 5 times
with no luck finding this. If I start it up and let it idol it does nothing. If I
start it up and rev it to 2500-3000 RPM'S for an extended period of time it
does nothing. If I drive down the road for more then 5 minutes, I start to
notice smoke that is hitting the exhaust and burning off. I stop and lift the
hood and it's covered again. WTF ? Please someone help me locate this.

John

Does anyone have the capability of welding aluminum? I need a small
tack weld on my new Outlaw Wheel. Defect in the quality and it's not
holding air. I bought them 2nd hand so I can't send it back. It's on my
spare, on the back, to make it easy.

Thanks,

John

Some kits add a spacer to your existing body mount to achieve the height of the BL.
If you have one of these kits and you add a 3" spacer to your existing body mount,
you will be in violation of Delaware's DMV code of having more then 3" in between the
frame and body. So yes, a 3" over stock BL will exceed the limit, according to Delaware
DMV code. As of now I'm 27" to the bottom of my stock bumper and 21" from my frame
rail to the ground. A 1" BL will pass inspection on all accounts in my case.

And yet another for astape!
Thanks again Aaron ! ! ! ! !

John

I have already purchased a 1" Daystar body lift. I was waiting to get through
DE inspection to put it on along with my 35's. I also want to liner the inside tub
but will wait to see if I need to access any body mounts, through the floor,
during the body lift install.

Oh, by the way I made it through DE inspection for another 2 years.

Thanks for the complament. A BIG THANKS to Aaron Stape for helping me achieve the results I wanted.

For people who don't bury their rig up past their shocks, it does serve a purpose. as the piston moves in and out, as the shock compresses, the rod picks up oil residue. Dirt, dust, grass, particles and debree tends to stick to this and gunk up your shock an destroy the seals. Like anything else, it requires maintenance. If ignored, it will cause damage over time from filling up and destroying your shock. I would always service my U-Joints after a off road run. At the same time I would look at my shock boots. I use my rig for both daily driving and for fun so I opt to keep my boots on. **LOL** I just added it to my long list of things to check.

I finally got the Pics to work !

Swing by Steve, I have a nice set of tips for a screwdriver and a nice
set of ratchet Torx. I also have an impact screw driver you can borrow
for as long as you need. Shoot me a PM and let me know. I know those
Torx bits can be a bitch.