Posts by Freebird1992

    "it is mostly stock" besides for the engine..


    In order to take advantage of the extra power shouldn't the entire drivetrain be seriously beefed up? Although it was neat to hear the tires spin at ~30mph at 2:27!!!

    Thanks for all the help guys! I'm gonna try the nutter bypass first seeing as it's free, at least until I get my Motorcraft. I'll also do the Team Rush mod soon, as it seems to benefit some people. My main thing is getting these vacuum wires sorted out and to try and get rid of these crappy emissions pieces. From what I've researched once I move to the Motorcraft, as long as I keep everything clean I should be good for emissions and even if not, there's always the $200 waiver!

    Hi all,


    After an extended break from jeeps (about 1.5 yrs) we recently picked up an 88 YJ heap-a-junk. 4.2l w/ a ba10/crap. The truck runs OK and for the $900 price tag wasn't too bad overall. I even drove it 60 miles back down everything from highways to back roads. However I noticed while driving and still now that the idle absolutely sucks. Every time I come to a stop or bring the RPMs down by even coasting, the jeep stutters and stalls. Furthermore, it is now difficult to even keep it running unless i keep a foot on the gas, keeping the RPMs up. When it dies and I push down on the throttle linkage, white smoke flows back up through the carb. When I can start it and keep it running for a bit, it is with the idle screw ALL THE WAY in, idling around 1200 RPM, however even then it will start to stumble, slow down, then pick back up etc etc. When it starts up there is a very slight white smoke coming from the tailpipe, and what I thought was oil was blowing out of the tailpipe. However it seems to mix well with water and washes off my hands easily so it may be dirty condensation. Here are the other diagnostics I have tried before coming to you guys:


    - Took off and completely cleaned venturi cluster, as the description of this problem is basically EXACTLY what I am experiencing. No help
    - Basic check for vacuum leaks. I can't keep it running very long so I couldn't do a thurough check, and I have the air cleaner off so all of those vacuum hoses are clamped shut. But there may be a vacuum leak that I haven't seen yet.
    - The metering pins in the stepper motor are constantly all the way out, as in I can see the whole thing blocking the hole they are in (so all the way forward?) I tried unplugging the stepper motor but it didn't help the idle at all.
    - The carb lets out white smoke if I open the throttle after the engine stalls
    - The dizzy cap, rotor, and wires look to be relatively new. The coil does not.


    I am planning on upgrading to a motorcraft carb in the next month or so, as soon as I get the money. At that time I'll try to eliminate as many vacuum lines as possible. I also have a spare carb the guy had laying around, and picked up a $10 rebuild kit at pep boys, figuring if nothing else at least I'll get the experience of rebuilding the carb. Just wondering what else I should try with it, and what solutions I should go about first. Thanks guys!

    We recently bought a 1988 YJ heap and could use some money for some new parts. So my dad is selling his Springfield EMP 9MM. Gun is immaculate, oiled every time it was fired, which was maybe five times and has maybe 200 rounds through it MAX. Looks like a brand new gun. Comes with 4 magazines and the box/kit it came in. Must transfer at FFL dealer. Would like to get $1100 for it, or will trade/partial trade for the following YJ parts:


    - Wheel/Tire Combo: Preferably at least 35's
    - AX-15/NP231 combo w/ bellhousing (to convert my BA-10/5 crap)
    - Motocraft 2150 carb (pref. w/ yj 258 adapter plate)
    - Top/Doors (it has neither haha)
    - Other upgrades (just ask, worst I can say is no)


    ***AGAIN, MUST BE TRANSFERRED AT FFL UNLESS PROVEN LAW ENFORCEMENT OFFICER***


    Thanks for looking!


    Link:
    http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?model=24

    Unfortunately due to needing money to fix my DD and for my last year of school, I have to sell off my projects. This is my 1976 MGB. It is almost bone stock besides for the paint color. The interior dash and everything are in rough shape, but I have many replacement parts. I put new foam and stuff in the seats and completely cleaned and bedlined the interior. I then put black carpet throughout. The interior is getting very close to being restored. The car doesn't currently have a battery, but with a battery will fire up and run/drive. It does have a slight valve tap on cylinder number 4. I was planning on doing a stage one engine kit for 1k to make the car much more speedy. I need to sell it ASAP so I'll let it go for a thousand. It also has new halogen headlights with led blinkers build in installed since this pic, and all the interior work was done since this pic (even though you can't see it). The car is in Bethany Beach, DE, so until I can get down there this is the only pic I have. Thanks for looking.



    [img width=1200 height=896]http://i.imgur.com/mF2bSs8.jpg[/img]

    Lol I promise I'll get pics up soon! sorry about that! But today my DD took a turn for the worse and I need it running to get it back and forth to school. So I will sell it to the first person to come with $2000 cash. I can post up old pics of the bronco before the winch bumper (which I will do in a few minutes). Again, it's titled, tagged, running, driving, 4wd works, winch works (but isn't hooked up to a second battery). I am losing over $2500 on this but I need the money asap. Please feel free to call 302 353 7580 w/ any questions or to come take a look. Thanks.

    like the title says.... selling due to the fact that I need the money for my last year of school.




    1978 ford bronco
    460 engine & c6 transmission & np241 (i think) t case
    custom dual exhaust, 2.5" all the way back
    custom motor mounts
    35x12.5x15 tires
    will come with dual t case stick kit
    this thing is a beast, haven't run into any problems with it



    i ditched the full top cause i didn't like the look - if you want a full top i've seen them on CL for about $50
    i am half way through making a cab back to close off the cab compartment - currently it just has a tarp over it for the rain
    the dash board is currently gone - i have a full set of custom VDO gauges I wanted to put in it but didn't - all wires are labeled though
    have a heater to go in it, no A/C (no room with the 460 engine in there)
    also has warn m8000 winch w/ synthetic cable and upgraded solenoids underneath hood
    has offroad bumper



    Registered in DE until october (i think) of 2014



    will post pics asap



    $3000


    $2000 need to sell asap!

    Hey guys. In the last year or so my 4wd hobby hasn't been as strong, so unfortunately it has to be the first to go for money reasons. Most of this stuff i'm selling for less than half of what I paid... While I will look at offers, these are already great deals so if there's something you like please don't try and see how little you can get it for.



    t-18 from FSJ - 100% rebuilt besides for pushing bearings in (I don't have a press) - bought the kit from novak for $200 plus shipping, and the trans for $150. Will let the whole thing go for $150



    D20 that was mated to t-18 w/ rebuild kit (not rebuilt, just comes with complete kit) - bought the master rebuild kit from novak for $230 plus shipping and the t-case for $150, will let the whole thing go for $150



    Bellhousing to mate t-18 to 258 (at least that's what I was told, you can take a look at it - $30
    Bellhousing that was on t-18 to mate to i think an 8 cyl (again, take a look) - $25



    cj-6 (will fit cj-5) dash board in steel w/ guages and glove compartment (may even have those neat 4wd instruction plates on them, don't remember) - $50



    also have lots of parts for ford truck 1973-1979, just ask



    will post more as I find it