Please help me! I just picked up my 74 cj6 a few days ago, and when I start it up, white fumes pour out the exhaust like an old 2 stroke engine. I have put in new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and they seem to have helped slightly. I am also doing an oil change today, but it still smells like 10 jet skis were fired up. The engine runs great, so do I just have to deal with the smell or is there something I can do? Thanks!
Posts by Freebird1992
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If you want - I can talk to my dad and you can take a look at his bumper that was done by them. He had them do the front - blast and coat and he did the rear... after they blasted it and then we did some work on it. He plans of getting rhino lined but wanted a coat of the powder coat just to try it out and see what they could do. They blasted both of his and powder coated the front for $200.
He is on the fence about whether he would use them for a part like a bumper again - like Keith said - it gets scratched, etc. Also - he said that powder coating does limit future mods/welding. with the bedliner you sand it off - feather it back - make youre welds then re-apply
If you are in newark - you may have seen his - white with black bumpers - both custom. I think they look great and it is soooo easy to touch-up.
I did mine with rattle can - tons cheaper than powder coat. My dad also really likes the rustoleum (sp?) bedliner for texture and easy touch-up. He did the rear with it and it looks great.
I will PM my number in case you want to take a look. -
Even with my steel frames and full doors my bestop trektop didn't sela well... until i added some padding around the interior area where the doors meet the top. Just ended up being some stirps of A/C window unit padding from HD and it sealed up very nice.
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Powder Barrons in Middletown did some work for me and my Dad. They blast and powder coat and are very reasonable: http://www.powderbarons.com/page/page/1071953.htm
We are in Newark also and it only takes about 20 min to get down there.
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So the Jeep stealership wants to do a whole list of stuff to my tj... All I wanted was an oil change. They want to do a tune up ($125) which I am kind of alright with, seeing as I just don't have the time to do it. But they also want to replace my diff fluid and trans case fluid, and call it a "4X4 tune up". But they want to charge me $250 for this. They also want me to have them do a throttle body service for another $90. Do I really need all this service? What is the benefit? Thanks so much.
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If you have 2 more sets, I will buy them. Let me know when you get them...
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Depends on what you need done. Do you need the existing zipper refastened or a whoel new zipper?
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My dad did some work on his JK - thought I would share here as well:
I am sure many have seen the drake offroad hood latches. I like them and the look but they are too expensive for me...
Then I ran across parts to make it for less than $20...
Found the critical parts on ebay - Race Basics store - while searching for Heim rod ends. Matched up a set of 1/4 male and female for a whopping $12 plus shipping and then found the screw and post at the local hardware store for $1.19.
I used 1/4 drill bit for the holes in the top and a 3/8 bit to drill the lower pin:
I knew I had to remove the original strap so I carefully drilled out the lower pin holding the rubber OEM strap - using the 3/8 drill I drill far enouh to make the cap easy to cut off but not all the way into the bracket:
After I had drilled the middle out I carefully cut the outer plastic with a razor knife:
And end up being able to pull the pin out with needle-nose pliers:
I then inserted my post and screw in the lower portion making sure to have the heim in between the brackets.
Had to drill a hole in the top bracket so i sould insert a top retaining pin:
Then it was a fairly simple process of adjusting the heim threads to the correct length and inserting the retaining pin I got at a local trailer parts store for $2.15:
Then insert the top pin through the holes drilled.
Working great so far:
Hope it helps those of you that like this look. Only took about 20 minutes on each side once you have the parts ready. Go slow so the holes are aligned and no accidents happen.
My son liked them so much - we do his TJ tomorrow... -
i think i only ran 14 guage... it says it only needs 30 amps to run and i checked and supposedly that is what the rear defroster ran on when i had the hard top, so i got the pin out and used the rear defroster ground and power as my source
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where is the signal to your amp coming from. from what you said it sounds like you are using the factory sub signal as an input to your amp. If this is the case i would state that is part of your problem.you need to use a line level converter (adapter to allow you to use RCA cables, or high input on the amplifier. These connections need to be made to the left and right signal (either front or rear) to supply the amplifier with a full clean signal.
what you are doing(assuming you are using the factory sub signal to the amp) is overloading the input to the amplifier, which is causing the amplifier to "clip" as stated earlier. the clipping is also causing an overload in your factory head unit that is distorting the other speakers.
as for Meeper's comment on 4 channel amps....not all 4 channel amps are made for highs. many of them you can bridge 1-2 and 3-4 to get a 2 channel amp for lows. there has even been some companies that have played with selectable inputs that you can turn a 4 channel into a mono amp. What you are doing with 1-2 bridged, and 3 going to the 6.5 sub will still work. not the best way to do things...but it would work.
Thanks, that actually makes a lot of sense since those speaker wires seemed to be grossly undersized for what I was asking from them. I just blew it off at first but even worried because of the difficulty getting even the smallest splices on them. so what would I do with said line level converter? where would it hook to/from and what would it eliminate? i have the high output on the amp and i was wondering what it was for. I ended up splicing the stock sub speaker wires into RCA and ran them to the RCA inputs, and that's what sounds like crap. A link to one that would work for me would be greatly appreciated thanks for your help
And Deebo - will definitely keep it in mind if this doesn't work! -
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4 channel amps are designed for four highs or two highs and one sub not 3 subs. and even when you do that you need a 3-way filter. not to mention the OE sub is a dual 2 ohm woofer, the amp probly isnt stable at what your running.
we are currently working on a replacement sub amp kit and upgrade for those with center speaker sub
problem is notbody makes a dual 2 ohm woofer in that size only dual 4 ohm which is why we need to add the ampsorry, forgot to add i replaced the oem woofer with a 4 ohm 150 watt pyramid one. so i'm pretty sure everything is running at 4 ohm... i see what you are saying about running 2 subs on the 3 channels but that shouldn't cause the front speakers to cut out should it? it seems as though it is a power issue, where on the hard notes the amp is asking for too much power which would explain why the protect light flickers, and maybe it is taking too much so the stock speakers can't work? idk... if i run both subs on one channel each and only have input from 2 speakers I can get it to work pretty nicely but I thought bridging gave a huge advantage with power, which means that i should have LESS problems with the speakers, right? The only other thing that I can think of is that maybe the head unit wants to run at 4 ohms, and by bridging all these things together, it is now running at 2 ohms which is too low of an impedance for the stock head unit to handle, so it is cutting out.
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so i just wired up my amp with subs, and everything works great until i get to about 15 volume on the stock head unit from my 06 wrangler. at that point, the speakers cut out every time the subs hit hard. If i turn the volume up, they cut out more. What is my problem? this is my setup:
stock head unit with front 2 speakers and soundbar speakers
600w 4 channel amp
10" sub bridged between channels 1 and 2 of amp
6.5" sub on channel 3 of amp
speaker wires to amp come from the old hookup to the amp that was in the center console with the 6.5". The amp that drove the 6.5" is bypassed and removed, and the sub is now powered through the 600w amp.Please help, I can't figure out why this is happening. thanks so much
oh and if i connect only certain speakers into the amp to play through the subs, i can get the volume higher or lower before it cuts out depending on which speaker i input
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I believe my sub in my center console went out (tried unhooking, reconnecting, etc.) But I want to be sure before I buy a new one. Can I test someone else's tj sub in my jeep to make sure it is in fact my sub that went out? Should take 20 mins max. Thanks ;D
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darn... well there goes that idea i guess ;D
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the one that i am looking to buy is. so if i go through with all this, any way anyone could give me some help with the labor? and how much would my auto tranny go for?
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would it be possible for me to convert my automatic to a manual? aside from a manual tranny, flywheel, and clutch assembly, would i need to do anything else? (2006 wrangler). I would really like to put in a manual transmission, and there is a guy selling a brand new one with fly wheel for 600, which seems like a great price. Would this swap be possible to do, in my garage? Thanks
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for anyone who wants to try to contact him here is the link:
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haha sure i'll try to find him again
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I have a guy who wants to trade his tube fenders to me for my regular fenders. He failed inspection so wants my fenders and flares for his tube fenders, however he has a yj. Will mine fit on his and vice versa?
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*UPDATE* The guy they caught confessed to ours as well as other recent break ins. he is a student at newark high school. he has been charged and released on $11500 bail. we got the restitution papers so hopefully he will have to pay for the new top.
