Try swapping the front sidemarkers back to an incandescent and retest...without some wiring an LED in the front sidemarker won't work and will have some funky behavior. If you're intent on LED's for the marker bulbs there are ways to wire around it but this will at least show if that's the issue.
--Ian
Our Jeeps got a new friend for Christmas:
I have asked people running LED headlights about this and none have had problems with ice buildup.
Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
I've been running the 5x7 trucklite's in the CJ-10 for about a year and a half. Didn't notice issues in the snow last winter but then again with CJ hvac it's more of a chore to keep the window defrosted than the headlights. 
--Ian
I love me some FC's....not in the budget, though. That thing appears to be fairly solid in the pics at least. Most that I've seen are rotted out in the bottom of windshield, 'step' area inside door, floors, etc, etc. If the body really is mostly solid it's screaming for some mechanical work, some period tires, clean up the interior, and rock it.
--Ian
That actually pisses me off they told me that because I have bought a few guns from private parties and went to a dealer for transfer when I didn't have too. I rarely deal with Xring but didnt think they would lie on something like that.Heres my one Xring story:
When the Glock 43 was coming out they put me on the waiting list for one. They gave me a price but said they do not take deposits and they will just call when it is in. About 2 months later they called and said I was up and they had one for me. I went in to buy it and at the cash register they went to charge me $125 more than what they had told me when I was put on the list (I wrote down the price). The guy was actually shocked when I told him I did not want it anymore. Bought a 19 instead at a different place.
On a side note I like my LC9 and I have the clip that just screws on to the side of it instead of a holster. I just clip it onto my pocket so the gun is in the pocked itself.
This isn't the first time I've heard of them telling people this. I occasionally help my buddy with his Utah class and someone raised the same point and stated that's where they heard it. I've bought a few things in there and they're usually pretty solid but misinformation like that rubs me the wrong way sometimes.
--Ian
so you would reccomend A Detroit for the rear and arb for front ? Is Detroit generally a higher quality than Aussie ?
Yeah, that'd be a solid combo....nothing wrong with an aussie but I'd personally consider a detroit stronger. The benefit of the lunchbox lockers is usually if you're not regearing as they don't require touching the gear setup since they use the existing carrier.
--Ian
A little late to the party but welcome.
In regards to OX vs ARB vs nonselectable....having run all three (well, the cable/manual version of OX) I'd have to agree with Billy in regards to the rear axle. With the wheelbase of an XJ personally the reliability of most auto lockers reigns supreme. The one thing I noticed running selectables F&R was that I tended to just leave the rear locked when wheeling unless I explicitly needed to unlock it. IMHO you're money ahead at that point to just use a selectable up front.
As far as one type vs the other...well, they all have positives and negatives. I ran the OX's for a long time in a D30/D44 and broke them both several times. I replaced the spiders and locking ring a couple times before grenading the D44 OX beyond repair. I'm pretty sure that the internals are the same between the cable and air versions so I don't think those weak points are any different. My wife's TJ has ARB's and other than the occasional air leak and o-ring replacement (currently needs the front's replaced) they're pretty rock solid. The one you didn't mention were E-lockers which I've got in my front D60 and several other members run...you can check out the negatives on that one in a current thread in Jeep Talk.
--Ian
1. Stafford
2. Whatevah +1 adult
3. Imarammr +1 adult
4. Captain II
5. clendaniel +1 child
6. jc1121 +1 child
7.
8.
9.
10.
If someone is interested in playing I could cut them and leave the negative space when weeding.
FYI- for those that got them and have less than perfect stickers let me know...there were some technical difficulties (cutter had been stored in the garage since we moved) with dust on the rollers so it was feeding funny. I'll cut replacements once I get busy with some q-tips and rubbing alcohol.
--Ian
Gone....
I posted on Clendaniels wall asking where the store link is a week ago...
D'oh...didn't see it. I don't usually check that, sorry.
FYI, for anyone considering it don't delay...we're likely heading to the dealership on Sat and if I still have it, it's gone.
--Ian
Damn I've really wanted one of these model WJs. I'm tempted.
Interior pics?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
I'll try to get a few but it'll prob be tomorrow given the whole dark-before-five crap. I'd rate the interior as 'ok'...the only real wear/issue are a couple burns in the headliner and driver's visor from the smoker chick we bought it from. No rips or tears otherwise and just what I'd consider normal wear and tear.
--Ian
4.7 or 4.0?
Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
4.0...sorry, will update ad.
There's a high likelihood we're moving on a new vehicle this week and were planning on trading our WJ as part of the deal. I figured I'd offer it to anyone on here before committing to the trade.
2004 Grand Cherokee Special Edition
4.0L
Silver/gray leather w/ sunroof
182500 on chassis, approx 120k on engine (swapped last year @170k)
water pump, battery, belts/hoses, idler pulley, and radiator replaced w/ engine
TRE's and both unit bearings replaced ~25k ago
3" IRO lift w/ adjustable trackbar. Added .5" urethane spacer in front to level.
Bilstein 5100's
1.25" wheel spacers
JK wheels with JK OE-sized Goodyear Duratracs (approx 60% tread)
Alpine bluetooth/usb/etc headunit w/ sat radio & handsfree
Viper alarm w/ remote start
OE-spec headlights ~18mos ago to replace the cloudy stockers
The bad:
-Typical dings, scratches of a 12-13yo vehicle.
-Starting to show some rust in rockers.
-Rear wheel bearings recently started to make noise, will need replacement in near future.
-CEL for O2 sensor and evap. Evap is cracked hose to charcoal canister, easy fix but have to pull rear bumper.
-Has wobble when slowing gently @40mph. Doesn't happen when coasting or braking hard. Cursory examination looks like it needs new bushings in IRO trackbar.
Makes a great daily driver beater or would be a good first car. Dealer is willing to go $2700 on trade, I'd be willing to let it go for that as a private sale given the issues noted above. Looking to move it out ASAP.
Being able to rebuild is another reason I want to just put u-joints in. By the time I catch the CV rattling, it's in pretty bad shape and a new assembly is the only way to go.
I'll probably have this rust bucket at least another year or so to get an even 10 years out of it. Maybe the new Bronco's will be out by then.
I'm confused...you can rebuild (more replace) the rezeppa style joint, you don't have to replace the entire driveshaft when it goes. Mine sounded like it was going to fall out of the Jeep the last time I replaced it and there was no issue. Maybe it's just the cheapass in me but to baby that pig for another year you could replace the joint multiple times for less than a conversion. Unless you think you'll be putting >40k on it in the next year it seems like a waste to upgrade.
BTW, not to get offtopic but I wouldn't pin your hopes on a bronco that is even close to the renderings people seem to be getting all giddy over....most people in the industry seem to agree that it'll likely be based on the ranger platform and borrowing heavily from the foreign-market Everest. I doubt it'll have much more than a passing resemblance to 'real' broncos and the renderings.
--Ian
I think a lot depends on how long you're planning on keeping it. It's the same style joint as the front d/s in our WJ which also has ~3.5" lift and I've replaced that twice...first time I was cheap and swapped to a used d/s and then when that one started making noise I rebuilt it w/ a new joint. That was ~40k ago and it's still holding strong. For the use it gets I'll swap the joint again if it gives us a problem.
EDIT: FYI, the joint is $121.79 on rockauto
--Ian
Amusingly I was just telling Jen about this type thing last night after one of her students was arrested for the whole clown/bomb thing at Smyrna High the other day.
I don't really hide much...don't really have the need. That being said I primarily use chrome w/ some addons (adblock, etc) and many times traffic is via vpn or ghetto-d vpn (proxy over ssh tunnel)
--Ian
Why? Because the price? It was just listed and has a week left....lots of shady peeps like me that sit on auctions like that and snipe it at the end. I'd bet the price jumps significantly towards the end. Looks like a really clean j-truck. 
--Ian
