Posts by AndyZJ

    Yea I'm not really interested in pulling a motor in a yard without a forklift since a forklift is how I do it at my yard. Plus I don't think there would be a way to hear the thing run before pulling it if other people have "had at it" before me. I understand your point in cheap but I also don't want it to blow up a week later. I've found motors for $1700 in other yards around the area but for a vehicle that sells for $4500, I'd be in it $3500 before all is said and done. That's not a lot of profit for doing a motor swap like that. I do know its the same motor as the Dodge Dakota and Ram but the price is still looking too steep. Maybe

    Just recently bought a 2002 Jeep Liberty with a blown motor and come to find out the engine is insanely priced used and hard to find. So this might become a parts vehicle. Is there any interest in parts off of it? Its silver color sport edition with 136k on the odometer. Or does anyone have an idea where to find a motor for not an astronaut price? Or does anyone want to buy the whole thing outright and build a diesel crawler?

    I had a customer's 1994 Grand Cherokee 5.2L for 2 days with a stalling issue. He had taken it to 2 other shops with both saying fuel pump. Here is the main issue he had. Cold the engine would start and run fine. Once up to temperature it would drive along and shut off or once it was shut off it would not start up again unless you held the accelerator to the floor which once you let off the accelerator it would die completely. So at that point I though Intake Air Controller, or as Chrysler calls it Air Intake Control Motor, on the back of the throttle body. So I replaced this. Same issue. Then as I was just looking at every value I had I noticed the scanner was telling me the engine was 97*F and the gauge was reading 200*F. On this motor they are 2 separate sensors. So I replace the temperature sensor reading 97*F for the ECU and it fired right up, drove and ran beautifully.


    I am posting this mainly because in my attempt to find answers EVERY single forum had listed:
    Crank sensor (granted that is common)
    TPS
    IAC
    Cam Position Sensor
    Oxygen sensor
    MAP sensor
    and the last resort Replace the ECU


    Not one had this. So I hope if anyone is having a similar issue they will get readings from all the sensors before replacing parts.


    I should probably explain that the engine being at operating temperature and the ECU thinking it is still cold meant the fuel trims were all wrong sending too much fuel to the engine which stalled it out unless giving it full throttle and thereby enough air to run, but once you let off the throttle the overload of fuel would shut it off.

    I may have one at my shop I was going to use in my 14 bolt build but bought one with a disc brake conversion instead. The tube has a couple holes from where I had to cut my welds off for the truss. $100 if you're interested.

    If you don't find a vacuum leak then on the back of the throttle there is the Intake Air Controller. Might be worth taking the throttle body completely off. Not difficult, only four 13mm bolts. Clean it real well. But I would lean towards a vacuum leak first like everyone else

    They are indeed narrow track axles. I have 2 sets of complete axles being one from the V8 Jeep and the other from mine. I'm gonna get into it this week and try and figure it out.

    Its honestly not that crucial to the topic is it? I mean for sake of argument fine you are correct BUT I was simply trying to separate the terms because of the 2 piece AXLE shafts. I mean do you want to name all the parts of the rear differential housing that I didn't list as well?

    Yea the term is interchangeable. When I call for parts and ask for brakes for my rear axle they always say "you mean rear diff?" so I wanted to differentiate it from the actual 2 piece axle shafts that I mentioned could be bent. And let everyone know I mean I swapped out the whole rear differential housing not just the axle shafts.

    I swapped out the differentials in my '81 CJ-7. They were original and my Jeep has the 258 motor. The differentials I put in were from a CJ-7 with a 304. What is the possibility they are the same ratio? I ask this because I'm trying to finish this project and after getting the drivetrain all lubed up and put together I drove it around the block only to find the rear wheels wobbling badly. So I figure possibly bent axles I'm thinking maybe I'll just swap the old rear differential back in. If its possible I'll just jack the Jeep up and count the rotations to get the ratio. Thanks.


    Also I only swapped out the differentials because the parts Jeep had 4 inch lift springs so it was easiest to just roll the whole assembly under and bolt it up.

    Must have the wrong shifter knob. Mine is definitely the SR4. Ford stamp was dead giveaway and aluminum housing. So is that a crap trans? Oh and I finished cleaning and filling all parts up with gear oil. Getting much closer to finally finishing this project.