If you are going to upgrade tie rod, you can save a bunch of money over the Currie by swapping just the tie rod for a 5.2L ZJ tie rod. While you at it do the over-the-knuckle conversion.
Moog parts needed:
1 #DS1312 Tie rod
1 #ES3096L Short Tie Rod Ends(outer driver side)
1 #ES2079S Adjustment Sleeve
I'm so glad this came up. I've been thinking about going to Main for vaca, and this thread has some great info! And I'm looking into Alapocas for climbing too.
Thanks!
Kevin
If they are just not retracting you can try cleaning the belt. It gets stiff with all the crud over the years and doesn't want to wind up. You can try to do it in place, but it can be a PITA. If you are going to take it off to wash it outside of the jeep, you might as well increase the tension on the mechanism too. You can also check for crud in the mechanism as well (you should not try to take it apart because it is a mess to try to get back together)
There are vids on youtube like this one.
Or you could get it repaired:
http://www.safetyrestore.com/s…e/9-seat-belt-repair.html
I finally got the work done, and the manifolds were fine! I guess it was the gasket because the squeal is gone. 
I put in LED's if you want them to dim don't go with them.
I like them bright.
Thanks for the info! I didn't know that about LED's.
They use these in small planes that use heat exchanges to heat the cockpit and can leak CO. $10 covers you for the winter.
Ive had good luck with the aftermarket one piece manifolds on my old TJ. It had the flex pipe in it though which I think lets them live longer. For $117 on Rock Auto you cant go wrong.
My 2001 has a 2 piece that feed into two down pipes that feed two down pipes. like this:
not sure how that would fit.
I just checked the 'replacement parts' section and the Banks is $110 more then the Crown. So that jives with what you're seeing. I just know that the 2-piece that started using in 01 has been know to have cracking issues.
The gods of jeep mods do not want me to get my 02 TJ to Aaron to get new gears in it.. 
Last night a freeze plug started spraying coolant, so it is in a local shop, and since the header has to come off (and is starting to squeal like a stuck pig), it only makes sense to swap in a new one. Question is: is the Banks worth the money?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/17601_500_07.htm
All replies are appreciated,
kevin
I just sold my 95, and frame condition is a major concern. posting pics of all 4 corners of the frame went far in getting it sold. I posted on Craigslist and cars.com because i knew i was asking a lot and needed to reach a large audience. It took a few weeks to get some interest, and some of the people are jerks (not here, but CL and cars.com). In the end, it was worth it.
Good luck with the sale
Thanks so much for all the feed back! I will check the steering components in a few days.
kevin
I have a clunk that is worse when turning (either way) and i hit a bump. It is a heavy 'clunk' and i can feel it under my foot too. Also, when i have the TJ in 4hi, and make a turn, the steering wheel will pulsate The sharper the turn, the more the steering wheel pulsates.
I thought it was the axle u-joints, but when i inspected them over the w/e, they appeared solid. I did have a clunk when i took the slack out of the ring and pinion when i spun the front drive shaft.
As far as i could see the steering components looked ok.
Any help to let me know if i'm on the right track with this?
Thanks,
kevin
I went with undercover fab works for the my skid plates. I went with the aluminum ones. Bob, Sandtostand, went with steel.
Thanks for the info!. the undercover fab is the same price as the skid row, but the undercover fab is thicker (but the skid row is a little larger, so the exhaust is covered more). More decisions... 
just sent a PM to astape to see what he has available. 
kjb
[size=1em]E-Rock: Can't find any, so the [light duty] sport are the ones i'll get.
whatevah: I'll go with skid row skids
another question: how hard is installing gears? I'm not willing to try it myself, and I know the adjustment is key. Is it something that most mechanics can do, or should i take it to Jeff Daniel's?
kevin
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no camping gear, so I'll go with light OME shocks.
now i'm 2nd guessing my choice of skids. what's the general consensus?
Tera Flex vs Skid Row
thanks so much for the advise.
Kevin
Is this still available?
If you don't wheel much, your money is better spent elsewhere than a SYE.
EXCEPTION: you'll want an SYE IF you experience driveline vibrations that you can pinpoint to the driveshaft. As lift increases, driveshaft angles increase. Two problems caused by this are possible driveline vibrations and more stress on the u-joints. Your lift is mild, and you already have the TC drop which minimizes the increase of the driveshaft angles, so I would be surprised if you experience driveline vibration troubles.
Altierior: Thanks, the SYE was one of those 'dream items'. I really don't need one. I'm getting skids and gears.
what type of ride do you want? the 5100's will prob be a bit firmer and tighter, but the OME will be more comfy. I currently have the 5100s and they are fine. I would be interested in trying the OME, I want the soft flexy feel.
E-Rock: You may have cost me an extra $60 for the OME's, but you have saved me more than money can buy,,, (a happier wife ). LOL
I have bumpers, hard top, skids, and sliders. I can't see ever having a winch. So 'light load' or 'heavy load' with the OME shocks?
Kevin
I'm thinking the 4.56 is for me. i don't do a lot of highway driving, so that's won't be a big issue.
I'm doing skids, so I'll prob put off the SYE for now. I'm on a 2" lift w/ TC drop, and want to do a tummy tuck so that's still something i want to do.
now I have to pay the piper.. 
kevin
Pretty sure you won't find 4.27 gears for the D35, and the TJ D30 is questionable.
More info: I have D30 front and D44 rear. PORC has a 'combo kit' for less then $450
http://www.performanceoffroadc…1487_319&products_id=3850
