I'm sure Tread Lightly cringed a little in this video...
[youtube]PKfMZJLbexQ[/youtube]
(Debated on off-topic of jeep tech, move as mods see fit)
I'm sure Tread Lightly cringed a little in this video...
[youtube]PKfMZJLbexQ[/youtube]
(Debated on off-topic of jeep tech, move as mods see fit)
For those of you who have had to have this done, why shop did you use? How much did it cost??
Display MoreAny parts store will have it.
Here's a thread with some pics.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum…-resistor-install-762372/
PITA to get to, but just 2 screws.
Thanks.
100,000 and she is starting to show her wear. I just made the final payment a few weeks ago. How ironic, final payment and it was on jack stands.
Got silly stuff like the door handle won't open from the inside and other things. She needs some TLC.
It took us a whole day to get the D35 out thanks to all the nasty bolts. But we soaked them in pb blaster as soon as we removed them so they were wet all night long. Installing the D44 only took 4 hours including fighting with the frozen driveshaft and bleeding the brakes with the exception of the trackbar and tightening the shock bolts. Oh and the swaybar mount bolts wouldn't thread in all the way, no idea why. Stopped about half-way in.
out of another TJ. I think 2005?
Thats what he told me, with less than 50K on the odometer.
I was able to get the track bar relocation mount back on today. After multiple attempts of installing the new track bar the thing just wouldn't go in the pocket. So I heated it up and bent it out. Then.....I was able to install the track bar relocation bracket.
I did a woopsies to the JKS track bar I bought. Gotta fix the threads on it. :woops:
Its rolling right now. Still not sure of its reliability yet, being an extremely paranoid individual. I drove it from the garage to my house, about 9 miles seemed okay.
On that note, where is the blower motor resistor at? Heat only works on full blast...need to replace it? Where can I get one?
So heres a little update....
Earlier last week I drove to Ohio and back, 16 hours, to pick up this D44. Got a pretty good deal on it.
Got home and it took Whatevah and I almost 2 days to put this thing in. We had a lot of trouble with bolts that were seized, and we didnt have air 't have air tools but we did have a power impact gun.
At that point I had to buy a new track bar because the bracket wouldn't line up. So a quick trip to Q-tec solved that and a new track bar and some shock brackets.
Today I wasn't successful on putting in the track bar. The bracket was bent in when we where banging on it, so tomorrow I'm going to have to heat up the metal and bend it out.
Sooner or later I'll get it on the road again!
Does the brands of gears make a difference?
I've seen USA, Nitro and Yukon so far.
I'm buying 4.56 gears, other than Pirate who else has good deals????
Has anyone else had experience with switching a D35 to D44 and having to shorten or lengthen their driveshaft?
With a stock D44, experience with lockers and such, do I need to upgrade my axle shafts? What would you recomend for a locker in a D44 in the rear, without going air/electrical lockers....
Or instead of putting a locker in the rear of my D44, do I put in in my D30 in the front? Do I have to upgrade shafts?
This is good news. Maybe I can get away with the one I have....
Then go for it. I don't know what your financial situation is, but if you can't afford it then .
Hopefully, with this I can.
Have you guys noticed an increase in MPG with re gearing??
I really don't desire to keep the 3.73s. I'd love to go 4.56.
I've found a D44 with 3.73's a few hours away, that came out of a 04 TJ. It only had 50K original miles on it before it was taken out. Open diff.
It probably would be in my best interest to buy this one, its got the gears i need and I imagine I'd have to get my driveshaft shortened.
This way I don't have to un-bolt both axles and get them someplace to be re-geared, then re-bolt them both in. I can get them re-geared and I maybe can even put a locker in it later down the line.
I'm still looking at possibilities, but this is a serious one.
So lets get some ideas going. If you had $1800 how would you fix the axle? Everything fixed...
I'd let mine go for not much more then the buy it now. It needs brackets welded on too like I said before.
So if I buy yours I have to cut off the triangulated link, put on new brackets for the upper and lower control arms, maybe shock mounts?....and then do I have to do anything to my driveshaft? I currently have a Tom Woods driveshaft with the D35. I still have the stock one in a box....BUT i don't think that'd be necessary. And then naturally I have to regear my front end. Any idea how much that runs?
Is 4.88 gonna be to much with my automagical tranny?
Would this work???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors…m45f7d72399#ht_500wt_1182
Whats the width gotta be? I can't find it online???
Take a good look at the carrier. I'm betting it has a crack in it. When a d35 starts to fail repeatedly then it is either from a cracked carrier or bent housing. There is just not enough mass on the d35 carrier to keep it from flexing under heavy load.
aaron
Oh but how right you are sir.
It does have a hole in it. This was what we found the last time -- the gears destroyed them selves but it appeared nothing else. Figured the carrier might be okay for a little while. I bet it's flexing now. Pretty crazy, looked like a bullet whole went through it.
So on that note, I'm looking.
Astape, I'll be PMing you.
Wonder if I could get this welded brackets on and make this work??
it'll be weird if it's the spiders, they were just replaced back in the summer. I'm guessing the housing is flexing a bit changing the tolerances in the diff.
Well...it's officially weird. I opened up the differential today and found it looks like the spiders. I found the smallest spider pin had broken and it was sitting on the bottom of the differential. I haven't done anything but open it up. Debating on my plan of attack.
The clip for the axle was on the bottom of the diff as well.....and the spacer was bent.
What could have caused this? Improper positioning? Something bent?
I still think he's talking out his ass.
The brackets for 2 axles would run $400-500 easy.
Some rather confusing PM exchanging going on....
RIGHT so thats why I say 600 so you will have to buy gears and we can put them in
So your saying I can get front and rear axles installed, welded and the whole shi-bang if I buy the gears and you install them fro $600? Where is Bozos off road? I've never heard of you, us, them?
Who can I have weld / help me install this if I was to obtain an 8.8??