Posts by frosty

I havent been during FJ fest but did go during the JK fest last year. I got in early enough to get a spot in the tow rig parking but it was already a mess and it felt like I was damn near by the old office before I got past the line of rigs to get turned around.

They did spend a bunch of time in the parking lot and we only ran into traffic on the trails a couple of times but the parking lot was enough of a disaster for me. Lines to pay were a little long but they seem to go in waves so look for a lull in people.

I'm not saying avoid that weekend, just plan accordingly. Although I'm avoiding that weekend.

JK Freak Fest is that weekend. 120+ vehicles registered so far. I would plan accordingly if you are towing and get there very early. Last year the parking lot was a complete mess as they were staging in the tow rig parking area and ended up blocking it off completely.
[url=http://rc4x4.org/rcforum/index.php/topic,23114.0/topicseen.html]http://rc4x4.org/rcforum/index…ic,23114.0/topicseen.html[/url]

Unit bearings are pretty on my Dodge once I started using a socket, extension and the power steering to pushing them out. I assume it'll work on a Jeep as well.

[img width=1200 height=900]http://image.dieselpowermag.co…and_unit_bearing_bolt.jpg[/img]

Quote from keith_c

What tranny do you have.

My NV3550 has always sounded like it was full of marbles when the clutch is not depressed.

This. What tranny? My NV3550 has been the same way from day 1. Also as mentioned the throwout being should make noise when the clutch is depressed.

The 1-2 grind is likely the snycros going and that would require them to tear into the trans which is a whole lot more than just having it apart for clutch, throwout bearing and flywheel resurface.

Quote from keith_c

That only works if the proper shocks were installed with the springs.

Never know what a cheaper Jeeper might have cobbled together.

Which is why it would be my second choice. If a street driven rig or beach rig (don't know the purpose of the vehicle) I'd bet that measuring the shocks would work so long as they aren't currently bottoming out.

Or what clendaniel said.

Remove the old shocks and measure their extended/compressed lengths and search for a replacement. That would be my second choice. First would be measuring compression/droop on the suspension. I wouldnt bother trying to estimate what amount of lift is on there.

What size tire do you plan on running? Do you have a HP30 now? Aren't waggy D44 u joints the same size as the D30? If going waggy have you priced out what'll take to get one in there with brackets, steering, different bolt pattern etc?

If it were me and I was staying 35s or smaller then I'd run the HP30 and upgrade it as I could. Sure the waggy shafts might be a little bigger but if the u joints are the same size then you've got the same weak link. Not to mention you'll be putting your pinion lower.

While I've run rubi D44s I wouldn't consider them an upgrade over the HP30, well maybe the ring and pinion but they are pretty much a D30 in the weak areas.

I'm to cheap to pay $85 for a hi lift mount. I've run chain link fence post straps, two carriage bolts, a couple nuts, washers and wing nuts before. Fits pretty well over the stock roll bar padding on the C pillar if you still have it. Also if you still run a top it keeps it inside and protected while easily accessible. If you run a tonneau cover you can move the straps up above it without any problems.

You can also pick up a couple exhaust clamps that bolt them to the C pillar bars and use some wing nuts.

Or you can drill two holes in the flat spots of the fender wells behind the C pillar and run a couple nuts and bolts in the holes and again use wing nuts to hold the hi lift down.

For anyone interested.

Not the best overlay but this is the first I've used Google Earth. I changed your track to blue. Looks like you might have jumped on Barney Rubble and/or BamBam when you hit the black around 741. You also covered a lot more ground than we did. I also see we missed a bunch of good stuff further down off 744 and 752. The place has potential and I see that there are some more black/red my group needs to head back and hit up.

Link do .kmz file you can open in Google Earth. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.…054/AOAA/AAOA_overlay.kmz

[img width=1200 height=679]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11516054/AOAA/AAOA.jpg[/img]

Quote from Stafford

https://drive.google.com/file/…scm16clk/view?usp=sharing

It's a kmz. Hit file/download from the link.

Got it, thanks.

Quote from Stafford

After the previous we ended up at 755 all the way at the end and started heading back. The ZJ and a couple others were back around 341 so we headed back down the main rd, grabbed them and then took 503 to 502, 375, 522, 527, 531, 539, 559, 562. At 715 we found two nice consecutive hill climbs with fresh untouched powder. That was a lot of fun. 703 was the top of the hill iirc, then 702 and we accidentally did the hill climb again (not that it was a bad thing). Some ATV's had also decided to climb it since we cleared the snow. 731 to 702 to 710 then we started heading back. Hit 547 (which has a half decent rock garden parallel to a short hill climb) then something in the 300 before hitting the parking lot. I forgot to mention the higher number trails are further from the parking lot.

[img width=1200 height=675]http://i.imgur.com/Xe1QUlt.jpg[/img]

Can you export that as a .gpx or something I can import into an app? Interested in the track in general but also wanted to overlay it on the current track I have.

Mine is about 105" and I've been happy with it. I originally had a flat skid flush with the frame rails but needed a little more room so the new one has an inch or so drop. Most of my stretch was moving the front forward.

If the axle has a unit bearing you wont make it far before it separates. I suppose you might get lucky but I wouldnt count on it. Need a stub shaft to get off the trail and back home.

FSM says "The idle rpm should be between 500 and 900 rpm."

Something to keep in mind, which you might arleady know, if you are checking the voltage without the jeep running is the PCM only supplys voltate for a few seconds (3 maybe) when you turn the key to acc or whatever point is right before starting.

30 mm should be the front sway bar. The rear will be the 13 or 16. FWIW rockauto.com only lists MOOG #K3160 as an option for rear bushings.

Unfortunately I couldn't find it.

No luck so far. I can't imagine I threw it out but so far haven't seen it. Got a couple more spots to look before I throw in the towel.

Quote from surfin

Okay sounds good. Where are you located?

Mount Airy, MD. It should fit in a small flat rate box.

I checked the shed but didn't see it. Pretty sure I still have it, just need to find the safe spot I put it so I wouldn't lose it.

If I do find it you can have it for the price of shipping. I'll dig around the garage after I get off work.