Posts by astape

Just an FYI, I own a 1 ton Chevy tie rod reamer if anyone needs to re-tapper a knuckle. PM me if you want to borrow it.

Thanks for the recap Chris and thanks to all that showed up and helped. A couple of small mistakes kept us out of 1st, but Don and I are happy with our finish.

I wish I had more time for details, but I have to head down to the Bethany to work for the next couple of days. If anyone down that way wants to hang for dinner give me a call. My number is in the members area thread. Where i am I do not have good cel service so leave a message.

Thanks,
Aaron

As we get toward the end of the summer I will start to have some time. If you want to wait I might be able to squeeze in a gear set up.

If he just sheared the bolts he will need to extract the remainder of the bolt and put new ones in. If the threds in the block are stripped then he might be able to helicoil the holes. The helicoil is a thread repair kit. They sell them at Pepboys. If the mount itself is broken then find a new one. They are cast and I would not trust a welded one to hold up my engine.

Pete Rothchild has one in his YJ. He used to be on the board at the begining. I am sure someone here has a contact for him. I am sure he would be happy to help you.

It looks like Gavan is going to come up on Fri. night and be the "water boy" for the weekend . I will have the new power steering pump (long story). Here by Thurs., so I am sure I will be ready to go for Fri.

I hope you got grade 8 bolts??? BTW you will probably need a BFH and a block of wood to get the carrier back in. On a d30 they are suppose to be that tight. It helps keep down the carrier flex.

Take your measurements and go to the u-pull-it yard to open hoods.

I use synth in the t-case and diffs. I run it in the t-case because of I run the 4-1 at high rpms and since it is gear driven t-case it protects better. In the diffs I use it because of the high pinion angles and travels to the bearings easier. In the tranny I would stick to the manufactures recomendations and in the engine I put the cheap stuff. If you change it evey 3-5k it will be fine.

No, he is just screwing around :). To be honest, I think he would fire me .

I am hoping to get out before 2 on Fri so we have plenty of time to get to tech without rushing. I am still not sure if Wayne's buggy is going to make it, but I will be there.

I am not sure if I gave that away ot not??? I'll have to look. If the springs and pins are the same Andrew can have them.

Alos, make sure you get the correct gear sets if you order them. You need to tell them you have the Rubicon with the factory lockers if you are keeping them. If you are putting different lockers in then the housing requires spacers to shim the carrier correctly. Just trying to help.

What you need to ask the sales man is "What grade steel are the shafts made out of?" There are even several grades of chrome molly. It has to do with the carbon content of the steel. I think Warn stuff is 4043 or 4340, I forget which way it is. Superior only makes one grade of shafts. They have a specific way they make the splines. To my knowledge Superior is the only company producing outer stub shafts for stock TJ/YJ hubs. Also, the Super 30 may reffer to their 30 spline inner shafts. They are same as d44 shafts, but you need a different carrier and locker. You just want to get the higher grade steel replacement shafts for a d30.

As far as your locker goes... The pins and springs are only $15 and will be a whole lot easier to change then pulling your carrier and ring gear to change out the entire locker.

If you need a 36mm socket you can borrow mine. I might be at the beach tomorrow night, but give me a call.

I saw an ad in the new 4wd and Sport Ut mag from Rock Krawler and it said they were coming out with a new 6" Libby lft. To be honest I would not buy anything from that company, but I thought I would share.

A vibe during deceleration is usually caused by the pinion angle being to high. If your bushings are shot your axle may be rotating a little. Did you pull the front ds? This will help determine if the problem is in the front or rear.

BTW, you will usually find a mattalic shean when changing the diff oil. There is a lot of metal to metal contact and it is nothing to worry about. Although it is always good to change diff oil if the axle has had a few trips through th mud and water.

The only thing that really goes wrong with a Lockright is the pins shear. There really arn't any other breakable parts unless you stripped some teeth. The pins are a $15 fix and you should not have messed anything else up in the diff.

Quote from "Da Mutt"

I think but wont sware to it that the reason that the lower gears break easier is because the ring gear teeth are thinner/smaller trhan on the higher gears this is one reason that I went to and decided to stay at 3.73. hoepfully the v8 will help with my street performance

Actually the ring gear is thicker when numerically higher. The problem is that the pinion gears get real small and the tooth contact between the r&p decresses. This causes a lot of force to be transmited through a thin contact patch. Keep in mind that if you have a larger diff like a d60 that when the pinion shrinks it still has a ton of contact. With a d30 it is kind of scary. If you have a 4 banger though you will not break because you don't have enough power.

BTW, the v8 will have more torque and hp, but you still want to stay with in it's power curve.

They don't go to the body mounts because they are only 4" channel. To be honest I don't really think they need to. I beat the hell out of mine and the tub is fine.

For TJ's it all depends on the amount of body plastic that came originally with your Jeep. I know the angle will not cover the holes on the side after pulling the plasic on the Sahara models.

Quote from "fly-n-hi"

Thanks Aaron, I'll check him out, one thing though what do you mean by joint size? I'm totally lost when it comes to the driveshaft and I'm probably going to need someone to hold my hand when it comes time to order one.

I am 100% sure the short shaft will have a 1310 CV and your pinion should also be a 1310 standard yoke. I think Jeep puts a 1330 yoke on the pinion if you have a limited slip (Track Lock) or a Rubicon.

A 1310 universal joint 3 7/32 overal width. The 1330 is 3 5/8. The caps are the same diameter. Just measure the joint on your original shaft to determine the size of the pinion yoke.

There is a good drive shaft article on page 54 of the June '04 Four Wheeler if you can find a copy.

If you are going to measure for a driveshaft... try checking with Frank at http://www.driveshaftshop.com. He is sponsoring me for Neuroc and is reasonable on his driveshafts. He is out of NY so shipping is cheap and quick. All you have to do is give him a length from center of yoke to center of yoke at ride hieght and with the suspension full dropped out (lift from bumper untill tires are off the ground). Also, tell him the joint size and you will be set.

Just so you guys know, one reason I do business with this guy is his service. I found out the Monday before Neuroc that my front ds was bent. I called him on Tues. and he was a able to ship me out a new one to the hotel in Attica, IN for a Fri delivery.

Just my $.02 :).