Posts by WILLYN

  • Problems bleeding my brakes on the JKU

    That really takes it to a whole other level. Considering that someone there knew why you needed service and what for, it really shows how stupid people can be. Or maybe they thought you were totally stupid. I would have caused a scene also, I don't like when people lie to me.
    As a result, I do all my own mechanical work, at least I know the idiot who did the work when it breaks and what kind of a Jerry-rig it actually is!
    They should have told you they also found a bad hydroscilator or the muffler bearings were going out, definitely not that the brand new brakes were beat. These youngsters need to learn to think out of the box a little bit more if they are going to try to rip off today's educated consumers.

  • ***DeJA Trail Ride*** at Anthracite Re-Scheduled to June 17

    Now that's some tree hugging there! The video is excellent, but I wish I could see what it was down there you were backing away from! Good job on the extraction. I think I could have gone down that, but my fancy brakes might not have held that good.



    *note to self: Jay is a good trail boss, but don't follow him too closely, especially downhill.

  • ***DeJA Trail Ride*** at Anthracite Re-Scheduled to June 17

    Quote from pajeepman

    What application are the rotors from with a 2 week wait time for production?


    Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk

    They are from a kit by The Street Rod Manufacturing Company, inc. The kit was used to put Cadillac Brakes on the international Dana 44. Luckily there was info about them in the packet the guy gave me when I bought the axles. With this setup the rotors are big enough I.d. To fit over the scout II axle flanges, and the O.d. Is small enough that the whole deal will fit inside of a 15" wheel.
    The rotors are 11-9/16 x 1-1/8, 5 x 5-1/2 lug pattern, and I'm not sure of the offset.
    Mine were worn down to 15/16 thick. They were probably close to that when I got them, someone must have turned them in their previous life.
    A web search showed that many people would like to know what application they are from, but it seems that the company buys the rotors undrilled and then drills them in house, thereby creating a proprietary rotor for which they charge 180.00 a pair and you have to wait for them to be drilled.
    I will be holding onto the old ones to start comparing them to others in the future. These slide onto the flange and the wheel lugs hold them on. Some people suggested that front cj7 rotors which are held on with the pressed studs might fit, but I don't have any loose ones to check.
    I hope my excuse is valid now. This is why I could never build a vehicle in a week like they do on tv.

  • ***DeJA Trail Ride*** at Anthracite Re-Scheduled to June 17

    I'm sorry but it doesn't look like I'm going to make this. I was checking the jeep out when I discovered that my rear brake rotors are about to explode! With my recent luck I don't think I should chance it. Apparently, my rotors are special and I can't just go buy some. They are two weeks until production.
    I will try again at a later date, I hope everyone has a good trip!

  • ABS code

    I didn't mean to recommend removal of the system. Just relayed my real world experience of how I was able to fix it properly and cheaply with minimal down time. The Tahoe module is a known weak link using a marginal MOSFET? Control. When they redo it they use one with a higher rating, so it doesn't burn out again. Chevy wanted something like $1000.00 just for a new module, with the weak part!
    Thanks for the correction, I'm a bit of a rogue.

  • ABS code

    If you go when the light is on it will probably fail. Otherwise they don't know, they don't usually pull those codes. My Tahoe was intermittent and I would get it inspected when the light was out. Then, finally, it was on all the time and I had put electrical tape over it to keep it from annoying me. It worked so well I forgot the tape was there and the next time they busted me!
    There are people on eBay who will repair the module for about a hundred bucks. In many cases the brakes work fine without the module, just no anti-lock without it. I pulled mine and sent it in, continued driving, and reinstalled it about a week later when I got it back. No more ABS light

  • ABS code

    I have this scanner, not sure if it will tell you what you want, but you're welcome to stop by and try it. I'm in Delaware City.

  • What have you done to your Jeep today?

    Quote from willf650

    I tracked down my drive train noise the other day and it turned out to be my new drive shaft. I did this by pulling the rear haft and taking a ride. I put the old drive shaft back in. Upon my test drive after about 45 minutes my motor started having some major issues above 1/3 throttle. I thought something was up with my fuel injection but there were no codes. Turned out to be my spark plug wires so $34 later my Jeep is running the best it has since I've owned it.


    Upcoming things I would like to do:

    • Engine Skid
    • New Rear Diff Cover
    • Replace rear seal on engine
    • Home made hydro assist
    • Upgrade master cylinder

    That sounds like my luck with driveshafts. Glad to hear it's mobile again, hope to see you out on the trails again soon!

  • 5.3 swapped Tj gauge issue

    So it's the same ecu and the same gauges and senders and the only difference is the engine and it all worked before? Is there any possibility that the oil sender is where the temp sender should be and vice versa? If the ground is continuous between the gauges and the motor and the jeep ecu then there aren't too many other variables I can think of.

  • CJ3B

    My seats are pushed back into the wheel well as well, probably about the same. People must have longer legs than they did back then!