Actually the initial fuel prime at key-on (when key is turned initially to the 'run' position, not necessarily to 'start') is _not_ related to the sentry key...all cars kick the ASD and fuel pump on for ~2secs at key on to pressurize the system, this simply quickens the engine start as the injectors are already supplied w/ pressurized fuel. With the sentry key the vehicle will actually start and run for 3-4 seconds and then cut off.
Swapping a 5.9L into a 98TJ
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Just a little background that may help. I sold the engine and harness to Jarred as I couldn't get them to work in my '02. Somewhere around here is a tread about that, but a 2000 Dodge and a 2002 Jeep use different networks and I would have had to replace my IP and wiring.
Anyway, the engine and harness is out of a 2000 Dakota R/T. When I bought the truck, which was totaled, the previous owner started taking it apart to replace the cab. After disconnecting most of the wiring he gave up. Since I wanted to hear the engine run before I put it in my Jeep, I put as much back as I could fine. When I first started the engine it ran and drove fine, but there were no dashboard functions or anything else inside.
Eventually I found a few missing plugs and once connected everything worked. I ran the engine for at least 10 minutes multiple times and drove it around the block a few times as well. However, the 'security' light was lit on the IP the entire time. The key I had was black, not gray like the Sentry keys. It never shut off unless I did so with the key.
When taking the truck apart I found a black box under the dash that I could not identify. I gave the dash wiring, this box and the key to Jarred when he picked up the engine, but I don't think he ever identified it either. HTH, Wayne
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Ok got the PCM back today, they said that they took the security settings out, so I plug everthing in and it STILL wont start.
The ASD relay kicks on for 2secs then shuts off when you go to start the ASD relay energizes again and then drops. Anyone have a FSM for a 2000 dodge dakota r/t? I printed out the electrical diagrams from that website quadna posted but I would like to get a list of the needed inputs for the PCM to allow the motor to start. -
let me check with a guy that I know...he might be able to get you a FMS.
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Do you know what the inputs are for the ASD? Maybe one of those are bad or missing.
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Something has to be up with the wiring or something in the PCM, it just doesn't make any sense.
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Is it possible to jump the ASD with 12v to keep it engerized? Ask the harness guy, if he says yes maybe you can hear it run before you send it back to him.
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Damn man, that is just evil. Hopefuly next week then...
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sorry if i ask a few dumb questions but may be able to help out...so am i correct in assuming that the starter is engaging and turning over the motor? i know fuel pressure was brought up and although the pump may be putting out 50 psi you can have good pressure without good flow spray some 2+2 in the tb and see if that does anything, motor can run off 2+2 at idle with not gas. is the engine cop or does it have a distributor. were you able to check for spark with an ignition spark tester or by grounding a spark plug. if you can check for spark you can rule out the asd. when i did my swap i was convinced the asd was my reason for the no start, turns out the cam sensor was 180 degrees out which i didnt think was possible since its comp controlled, i found that out by spraying starter fluid in the intake held the throttle slightly open and cranked it over, when the flame shout out of the tb i had a good idea why it didnt start. that can be the case for both cop and distributor. something doesnt seem right considering you had the comp flashed and you seem confident the asd is working. might want to look at all the basics might be something easy that was over looked.
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Well the ASD works but I have to tie it to ground so something else is telling it to turn off. The starter is cranking the engine the belt turns. It does have a distributor. Also I sprayed starter fluid in the TB with it open and I did check for spark nothing. Every idea helps.
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Well I think I found the problem. I thought of it last week but I sidetracked with something else. Pulled the crankshaft position sensor out and it was mashed up pretty good. The bolts I used to mount the clutch plate to the flywheel were to long. So when I cranked it over the bolts came around and smacked the hell out of the sensor
So hopefully thursday I will have the harness back and be able to start the JEEP. Finally! I also found out that the crankshaft position sensor for a manual is different than the one for an automatic.
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if you had a auto crank sensor installed it is adjustable and was prob resting on the flywheel. the manual sensor is held by 2 bolts and has no adjustment. but that sounds like it could be the problem...busted crank sensor will cause a no spark condition
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So it's Thursday, are you too busy doing burnouts to give us an update?
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So what happened? Or are you talking about next Thursday?
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Excellent news as far as the engine goes. Let us know what happens with the clutch.
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the 3550 should hold up, from what i hear they can take up to 500hp. were you able to use the TJ instrument panel?i am pretty sure they are only good to 300hp. most stock dodges only have around 245 anyway.
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