Dana 35 regear or swap for a Dana 44.....

How much will new gears, a Super 35 kit be compared to getting a Dana 44 (new or used)? How much wheeling do you do and what is your driving style?

From some board members experience with the super 35 and from others that I know I do not think it is a good idea if you want to run 35's. I have seeen bad bad things happen to axle housings and ring gear with a 35. All you are really upgrading is the shafts which is a very very small part of shining that turd. They do have their place but I don't see that place being your application. Find a TJ 44, or look around and find an already built 8.8, both can be had for around 1300 which is a little more than the super 35 considering you need to also get a locker to be comparable.

Just keep checking all of the forsale boards on the jeep forums like JU and jeep forum. I just bought a hp 30 and a rear 44 with 4.88's and an ARB for $2000.00. THey are out there you just have to look. ALso try http://www.car-parts.com

I wouldnt do the super 35 but thats just me. I had it for 3 weeks and broke it on the first trail ride. However I had the yukon version no the superior version, some say superior is stronger but i dont buy it. Anyway go with the 44. It will end up costing you more to start but it will save you in the long run. I bought mine complete from drivetrain direct mostly cause i needed it right away and it cost be 2300. Thats a bit steep but it was convenient. If you were going to just build one you can get a new d44 housing from jeepsareus.com for like 450 and just buy the rest of the parts. I know Ian has an account with randys ring and pinon. Check them and get some prices, or order from Bob I found him to be cheapest.

Yes, a trussed housing will be stronger than a non-trussed housing but I don't beleive the housing is the week link in Dana 35. It's the C-clipped axles.

Would it be cheaper for you wide tracked owners to get a stronger rear from another vehicle and cut it down? Since your messing with the rear there are no knuckles to set up at the right angle. Yes, it would be more work but it may be cheaper and if you keep your Dana 35 you can always swap it back in if you sell the vehicle.

Is there a vehicle out there with a stronger rear that wouldn't require cutting down; Isuzu Rodeo, Nissan, Yota...?

I doubt it woudl be cheaper than say finding an XJ 44. The problem is the coil buckets and control arm mounts on the TJ make it expensive to even build the cheapest of axles

I was thinking they could be welded on or a rear with a coil spring set up could be found.

I guess in the long run, since it is a TJ and still has considerable resale value, it would be better to pay the money up front and just buy it the way you want it.

Unless you have a plasma cutter to chop the old brackets off for a tj, you have to buy new ones witch as a set cost about 250 bucks. That in addition to all the other parts sometimes puts you close to the price of a completely assembled axle. Trust me Ive done some research.

The weak point on a Dana 30 is the axle u-joint. Swapping to alloy shafts is the typical fix for that, which for CJ's is around $800. I imagine it would be the same for TJ's and YJ's as well. It's my understanding that you're pushing the stock axles until you go to a front locker and 35's. Other's who wheel more may have better information.

If you want to go to excessively low gears (probably lower than 4.88 as a guess) you may want to switch to a larger rear in order to get a bigger ring and pinion gear. That way you will have more teeth engaged. Dana 27's and I think Dana 30's used to come with 5.38 gearing stock from the factory but that was before people were running bigger tires and more HP.

I wouldnt worry about beefing up the d30 just yet. I have had no problems with mine and i know others had no problems with thiers. I believe Ian is running stock axles and lockers and Andrew did for a long time without a problem. A front 44 is not neccessary just yet.

Quote from "2000sahara"

I wouldnt worry about beefing up the d30 just yet. I have had no problems with mine and i know others had no problems with thiers. I believe Ian is running stock axles and lockers and Andrew did for a long time without a problem. A front 44 is not neccessary just yet.

Yup...mine's a high-pinion D30 w/ latemodel non-disco shafts and 760x joints. Haven't had problems (save for spitting the caps of one ujoint) running 4.56's w/ an Ox locker w/ 36's. I think most can attest that I don't baby it either. I'll be the first to admit that I'm pushing my luck but I won't swap it out until I _need_ to...ie. when I'm breaking on a consistent basis.

--Ian