What have you done to your Jeep today?


  • I hope you aren't driving any loved ones around on that.


    Somewhat harsh, but Keith is absolutely right.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.


  • As far as "repair" I know that I've heard of it (vulcanizing??) and have a basic concept of it but I don't know much else than that.


    There is no repair for a dry rotted tire. I took a week long seminar on rubber compounding 20 years ago. I'm not really sure how you can reformulate rubber in the tire tread to re-vulcanize it. But technology is a wonderful thing. If there is a process I'd be suspicious but would love to see how it works.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • There is no repair for a dry rotted tire. I took a week long seminar on rubber compounding 20 years ago. I'm not really sure how you can reformulate rubber in the tire tread to re-vulcanize it. But technology is a wonderful thing. If there is a process I'd be suspicious but would love to see how it works.



    Re-treading is the only thing I know that can be done, https://treadwright.com/ does it, bead to bead re-tread. The big problem is that they don't recommend airing down, I suppose it risks sidewall separation. P:ersonally I would avoid this kind of crap. Makes more sense with a commercial truck tires being $3-400 each x18.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

  • Retread only takes care of the tread, not dry rot on the side wall

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats


  • Makes more sense with a commercial truck tires being $3-400 each x18.


    And they VERY thoroughly inspect the casings to make sure there is no rot or broken belts. Also they will NEVER retread a steering tire for obvious reasons.


  • And they VERY thoroughly inspect the casings to make sure there is no rot or broken belts. Also they will NEVER retread a steering tire for obvious reasons.


    That's not completely accurate.


    Buses are not allowed to have retreads or regrooved tires on the steer axle.


    Trucks can have retreads; but not regrooved, depending on the load capacity of the tire.


    I would never run them.


  • I didn't know that. They aren't available from the two suppliers we use for retreads. We can only buy new steering tires so I thought that was the norm. But like you said, I wouldn't run them either so maybe they just do that to limit liability figuring it's not worth the risk. :shrug:

  • I flipped my bumper over to see if I can still use it when I mount the spare tire carrier. I think it sits too low and pretty sure I don't like the look. Maybe I'll cut it down to a single tube bumper...

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • 3 of the 4 of my maxxis treps are vulcanised. Its only good for repairing holes not dryrot. It all depends on location and use if the hole can be fixed.


    The last dot guy i spoke with said that no commecial truck could use a retread on a steer but im sure that varries from state to state. The pete has all virgin rubber and will always have virgin except for the spare we carry but thats just to get us to the next tire shop. Had too many issues with tires to deal with retreads.


  • I flipped my bumper over to see if I can still use it when I mount the spare tire carrier. I think it sits too low and pretty sure I don't like the look. Maybe I'll cut it down to a single tube bumper...


    The break in the upper tube was to make room for the spare tire. If yours is hitting the bumper I'd look at opening up that space a little by trimming the upper tube. What kind of spare tire carrier do you have?

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • The break in the upper tube was to make room for the spare tire. If yours is hitting the bumper I'd look at opening up that space a little by trimming the upper tube. What kind of spare tire carrier do you have?



    I'm fabbing up a swing out carrier using one from a Nissan Pathfinder (tub mounted). The bumper, mounted normally, sits too high and interferes with the lower hinge for the carrier, not the tire. Now, I don't remember if I tried this or not but the side tabs for the bumper has 3 holes to mount it @ different heights... I'm not sure if I tried mounting it (right side up) @ it's lowest position. It's only 4 bolts so I'll give it a shot tomorrow. The lowest position, though, only utilizes 2 bolts instead of 4. Even w/ 2 bolts, it tightens down enough to keep the bumper from ever moving/rattling but something in the back of my mind is saying there's 4 bolt holes for a reason. I am using the largest Grade 8 bolts that it will accomodate (1/2 or 5/8 IIRC). I'll try and get some decent pics for visual purposes.

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • Here's a couple of pics to show what I was talking about. The 2 lower holes shown from the outside could be used if I drilled and tapped the side of the hitch bar or I could have a bead welded down the long edge.



    I do remember why I turned it upside down now.. if it's right side up, the long bar hits the hitch and won't mount low enough for the lower hinge on the tire carrier to clear. I only paid $35 for the bumper and that was more for the hitch than the bumper itself. If I decide to cut it up some, I won't lose any sleep over it. I can always put my bumperettes back on too.

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • The thing I don't like about tub mounted spare tire carriers is that, if not properly braced, the bouncing of the spare as you drive will slowly tear the tub apart (happened to me but my tub was not the best).


    But if that's the route you want to go, make a bracket that bolts to the bottom of roll bar (underside of the wheel well) and extends to the back side of the tub. It would essentially be a large piece of angle; I'm guessing one side would be 4" and the other 2". That way the upper mount of the spare tire carrier will be mounted to something firmer than sheet metal.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats


  • The thing I don't like about tub mounted spare tire carriers is that, if not properly braced, the bouncing of the spare as you drive will slowly tear the tub apart (happened to me but my tub was not the best).


    But if that's the route you want to go, make a bracket that bolts to the bottom of roll bar (underside of the wheel well) and extends to the back side of the tub. It would essentially be a large piece of angle; I'm guessing one side would be 4" and the other 2". That way the upper mount of the spare tire carrier will be mounted to something firmer than sheet metal.


    That how my Bestop carrier is designed.


    One bracket is bolted to where the sport bar is mounted and the other catches a body mount I think.


    Mounting to just sheet metal will never last.

  • That how my Bestop carrier is designed.


    One bracket is bolted to where the sport bar is mounted and the other catches a body mount I think.


    Mounting to just sheet metal will never last.


    True... the ORF carrier I used to have started tearing the sheet metal b/c the lower bolts only had a small plate on the inside of the wheel well.




    The thing I don't like about tub mounted spare tire carriers is that, if not properly braced, the bouncing of the spare as you drive will slowly tear the tub apart (happened to me but my tub was not the best).


    But if that's the route you want to go, make a bracket that bolts to the bottom of roll bar (underside of the wheel well) and extends to the back side of the tub. It would essentially be a large piece of angle; I'm guessing one side would be 4" and the other 2". That way the upper mount of the spare tire carrier will be mounted to something firmer than sheet metal.


    Got that covered.. The upper bracket I designed is going to be L-shaped and will be tied in w/ the rollbar (sandwiched between the bar's base and tub), extends all the way back to the inside of the tub and then a vertical piece for the upper hinge bracket. Once I get the 2 pieces drilled for their mounting holes, I'll have them welded together and probably add a gussett(s) (1 to each side or 1 centered) for added strength. The lower hinge was only going to be a flat plate on the inside of the wheel well. I don't think it's going to see as much stress as the upper hinge mount but I'll have to give that some further thought. The OP who's build I'm following over on JF only used flat plates for both the top and bottom hinges and has said that it has held fine since he installed it. Myself, I'd rather err on the side of caution and overbuild it now than have to do it again later. I don't think he drives his that often so that may be the reason there's not much wear although he claims to have wheeled it hard w/o any ill effect. IIRC the steel I'm using is 3/16"... maybe 1/4" but I don't believe it's that thick. My cousin already cut down the pieces to my size specs. I've been putting off this project for a while so I'm excited to get it rolling again and done hopefully soon. :up: :up:

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • Re-treading is the only thing I know that can be done, https://treadwright.com/ does it, bead to bead re-tread. The big problem is that they don't recommend airing down, I suppose it risks sidewall separation. P:ersonally I would avoid this kind of crap. Makes more sense with a commercial truck tires being $3-400 each x18.


    Treadwrights aren't really retreads, they build them just like a new tire but on a used carcass. They are molded, that's why they only offer so many sizes. They only have those molds. Most tire manufacturers won't recommend airing down any tire as it decreases load capacity and creates a risk.


    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  • Since not everyone checks out my stuff on Facebook I'll post here too. It's not my jeep, but my truck smoked the transmission so I am rebuilding it myself. I also decided to fix a few more things, like the really rusty oil pan. Ford made it so you have to remove the giant 7.3L diesel to do so..... Easiest way to lift the motor, remove the body.




    And the magic inside an auto trans...



    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

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