Anyone have any experience with this kit
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merc…de=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
I am not too keen on the rugged ridge kit and the Currie kit is over priced IMHO
besides building my own linkage... I can't think of a better set-up...
any feedback?
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Anyone have any experience with this kit
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merc…de=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
I am not too keen on the rugged ridge kit and the Currie kit is over priced IMHO
besides building my own linkage... I can't think of a better set-up...
any feedback?
Looks similar to the ORO which was the hotness for a while but not so much anymore.
If I upgrade it'll probably be the Currie.
It looks pretty stout, but if you or anyone you know has minimal welding skills, you can get the Ballistic kit that comes with 1.5" .25 wall dom and the same tres.......Btw this is what Turtle, Paul and I run. (We have one ton divetrains though) Or for a few bucks more you can just send them the measurments and have them weld it. . Also, you will have to ream out the pitman arm and both knuckles to fit the 1ton tres. Here is the link
Get the currie setup....
Btw this is what Turtle, Paul and I run. (We have one ton divetrains though)
I think there's something to say for having a weak link too.
Maybe not so much with running D60's but with a D30 something's going to give and if there's no "fuse" in the steering linkage then it's going to be in the knuckle or the ball joints.
I'd rather bend a tierod on the trail than break a ball joint.
I am not just looking at bashability, but also better alingment... isues that the inverted Y have compared to the inverted T seem to be less...
To each his own I guess, but to me that is a non issue.
One you properly align it nothing should change.
I saw the JCR kit on a couple XJs while wheeling up in mn and they seemed pretty stout and the guys running them had nothing but good stuff to say about them...they were on dana 30s with 33s
Looks similar to the ORO which was the hotness for a while but not so much anymore.
If I upgrade it'll probably be the Currie.
X2, I have nothing but good to say about my Currie. And I don't think it is at all overpriced, unless of course you can fab it all up on your own. And realize, while the Currie is a direct replacement for the stock system, it will take more, and possibly considerable work to fit the kit you are looking at. And compared to stock, the Currie is beef. Currie FTW...
I think price is what killed the ORO popularity. However, it did not require drilling/reaming out the knuckles and pitman arm like the JC Offroad system.
I just ordered the steering from jrc, you can come check it out when i get it in. I've read nothing but good things so I'm hoping for the best
JCR is really popular with the guys at NAXJA, I guess since you get a bigger TRE and it's easier (and much cheaper) to get replacement ends. I got Currie for next to nothing so I'll run that until I need to replace it and decide if I want to spend the money to rebuild it or go with something with cheaper maintenance, then. Probably go OTK, too. The Currie steering gets a bad rep occasionally because the rods will bend easier than the heavy duty tubing that JCR and others use, that's intentional so you don't break a TRE and you can just bend it back into shape. Just something to consider. Of course, I'm still using the factory drag link and tie rod right now... haven't actually gotten around to installing the Currie stuff. 
The JCR kit is $349 including shipping...and then you still need to buy a $20-$80 reamer. You'll need to find a drill press for reaming the knuckles...unless you are SURE you can get it nice and centered with a hand drill. You'll have to paint the entire setup as it comes uncoated. Also, you'll lose some clearance with this setup as well.
The Currie kit is $379 including shipping (Northridge4x4)...and you need to buy nothing else. No drilling, reaming, nor painting. Remove old system, install new system, and then align. Oh, and you don't lose clearance with the Currie kit.
I'm sure there are more pros for the JCR kit...but I don't have the kit and haven't researched it much. I do have the Currie kit and have been plenty happy with it.
Chris (clearly biased ;D)
i've seen someone ream it with the jeep on a lift with a hand drill. you just have to take your time. and if you are nervous take it to a machine shop have them do it.
Reamers are self-centering and aligning. Pretty much impossible to to screw the holes up.
Looks similar to the ORO which was the hotness for a while but not so much anymore.
If I upgrade it'll probably be the Currie.
ORO's setup made significant changes to the steering geometry...Steve admits it but his goal was a truly bolt-on system. It was less-than-ideal in my experience as it made for alot of tire scrubbing and offroad significantly decreased turning radius. I was definitely more happy after I dumped it and ran the currie setup along with a tie-rod flip kit as it afforded additional clearance, a decent amount of beef, and little modification to make it work. This one's nice but to flip the TRE's involves some fab work that some may not be equipped to do.
--Ian
the oro setup looks as if you are changing how the tie rod mounts to the knuckle. moving it inward. the jcr system is just replacing the y setup and not modifying the knuckle except installing larger tres
The larger ends are beef and they will not break unlesss you abuse them to no end, which James you do not do. The system you are looking at is nice, but if you do it all yourself and buy the tubeserts, tubing, jam nuts, and ends, you will save a lot of money. I would be a little weary about making the hole on the knuckle large enough for a one-ton end, but you can always wrap a piece of 3/16" around it and keep it strong. On the passenger side, you can just ream it backwards to flip the TRE on top of the knuckle. The minor diameter of the one-ton ream is just about the same as the major diameter on the stock knuckle. The tubing will still bend before the ends break.
As said before, the ORO kit is junk. I hated every minute that I had it.
Teraflex High Steer Knuckle
Teraflex Track Bar Bracket on Axle - has 5 diff positions for track bar
Rubicon Express HD frame side track bar bracket
1.5" 7075 Aluminum Rods - Track Bar, Drag Link and Tie Rod
Chevy 1-Ton Ends
Stock Pitman Arm
Currie johny joints for track bar ends
this is deff the way to go, my jeep handles like crazy because the track bar is raised up so high on the axle side, drag link and track bar are totally parallel.
I will try to post a pic tonight but here is an ok side shot u can see how high the tie rod is
Getting into moving the TB mounts and making a new one of them is getting a lot more into the fab portion of trying to have a simple mildly fabbed steering set-up that perfoms well. Not to mention you are at like $500-600 doing all of that.
Getting into moving the TB mounts and making a new one of them is getting a lot more into the fab portion of trying to have a simple mildly fabbed steering set-up that perfoms well. Not to mention you are at like $500-600 doing all of that.
yeah but you get what u pay for, i've bent way to many Currie setups in my day and the ends suck
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