military tires

  • On a quick search of the web on offroad only cheap trail tires(because thats how i roll :mrgreen: ) I found a lot of military tires. What kind of experience do any of you guys have with used military tires? Im looking at the 36to37 goodyear RTII with humv wheels. I would appreciate any input to help me decide if thats the way to go.

  • the goodyear 37 in the 16.5" flavor work decent. but they do make regular MTRs and even new tread pattern for them now. you can find them in surplus already.

    Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else.<br />-Frederic Bastiat

  • Should we assume the tires would be double-beadlocked? I know 16.5" diameter wheels are notorious for losing inner beads when aired down. The design of the wheel is the cause. But if you lock the inside then it would be a moot point (like Stauns or something like that).

  • Staun beadlocks.

    From what I know they are an internal beadlock style that squishes the bead against the rim from the inside with high airpressure from a belted innertube. They've been tested to not explode at over 160psi. You can run your tires with ZERO air pressure with these things.

    http://www.staunproducts.com/beadlock.php
    http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4965
    http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums....php?p=5849634 looks like murfman on JU has ran them for 2 years and never had a problem.


    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


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  • The RTII tire is a bias ply. I would not plan on street driving them like you said. Even sitting over night they tend to get flat spots that ride like crap till you get them warm. I daily drive a HMMWV on base and the previous set of tires was the RTII so I have plenty of experience driving them. I never did any rock crawling with them but have had them on secondary roads and trails at some decent speeds. The nature of the tread pattern has good lateral stability but I don't think they would be the best in the rocks.

  • He's talking h1 wheels...no need for stauns as they're double beadlocks already.


    Jason- from what I've seen look for the 'new' style tires or at the very least the radial version of the old one. My spare is an older one (but is a radial) and is rock hard. Look up 406yj on pirate...he does recentered h1's and sells surplus tires as well.


    --Ian


  • The RTII tire is a bias ply. I would not plan on street driving them like you said. Even sitting over night they tend to get flat spots that ride like crap till you get them warm. I daily drive a HMMWV on base and the previous set of tires was the RTII so I have plenty of experience driving them. I never did any rock crawling with them but have had them on secondary roads and trails at some decent speeds. The nature of the tread pattern has good lateral stability but I don't think they would be the best in the rocks.


    There's also a radial version...there's one sitting in the bed of my truck as we speak. Still a hard compound and fairly noisy but better than the bias ones.

  • The bias ones are the tires I was looking at. I found a great deal on some.
    So are we saying their not worth entertaining a trial run?


  • The bias ones are the tires I was looking at. I found a great deal on some.
    So are we saying their not worth entertaining a trial run?


    The fact that they are loud and prone to flat spotting doesn't pertain to you. I doubt my bias ply Pitbulls are much better but (like you) they don't get any road miles so who cares.
    There are some benefits to the bias ply tires but I'd be more worried about the hard tire compound that Ian mentioned. While designed for longevity, I'd expect them to suck on the rocks.

  • I was hoping that someone has seen them in action.
    I still have time to look around some more. I will see if they are giving any deals on the radial version.

  • Ok, I found a super deal and have already picked them up. Now does anyone know if a stock h1 will fit over dana 60 calipers? I haven't tried yet because I have a different lug pattern.
    Don't ask it gets more complicated

  • There is a difference in rims that are made for bias ply tires. Radial rims have a slight ridge just inside the rim for the bead to sit on. I think this is because radial side walls are not as stiff as bias side walls. Because of this, I've been told never to run radial tires on rims designed for bias tires. I'm not sure if the opposite is true.

    Member since 2000

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  • There is a difference in rims that are made for bias ply tires. Radial rims have a slight ridge just inside the rim for the bead to sit on. I think this is because radial side walls are not as stiff as bias side walls. Because of this, I've been told never to run radial tires on rims designed for bias tires. I'm not sure if the opposite is true.



    Im not worried about the tires, I just want to know if the stock rims will fit over my calipers.

    they are the 8 bolt h1s


  • There is a difference in rims that are made for bias ply tires. Radial rims have a slight ridge just inside the rim for the bead to sit on. I think this is because radial side walls are not as stiff as bias side walls. Because of this, I've been told never to run radial tires on rims designed for bias tires. I'm not sure if the opposite is true.



    Where did you read/hear that? Ive been in the automotive for over 20 years and NEVER heard that. As for the difference in the rims I've also never noticed that. John not trying to argue just never heard either of those and have mounted radial tires on plenty of 50's,60's and early 70's cars/trucks that had the original rims with no problems.

    Neill


    In a perfect world every dog would have a home and every home would have a dog.

  • I had a set of rims from a '60s CJ once and a friend of mine pointed it out to me. Also, those particular rims wouldn't fit over the disc brake calipers.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats


  • Where did you read/hear that? Ive been in the automotive for over 20 years and NEVER heard that. As for the difference in the rims I've also never noticed that. John not trying to argue just never heard either of those and have mounted radial tires on plenty of 50's,60's and early 70's cars/trucks that had the original rims with no problems.



    I do know that they made two different rims.

  • None of this matters, though, as you're running h1's and will (presumably) retain the insert....no issues w/ bead retention for either bias or radial.


    As for caliper clearance: dunno on your axles as you're planning on running a new-ish front 60 and sterling rear, correct? You do need to verify that the 60 you got is in fact 8x6.5 and not the new funky metric bolt pattern like our super duties. I can confirm they clear the dual pistons on my 88-91.5 axle but hit my highsteer w/o spacers.


    --Ian

  • Yes, 60 and sterling. I tried to put the rim on and just as the studs hit the rim the caliper hit at the same time. I can and will die grind the lug holes a little but if I cant get over the calipers then I will do something different. I don't mind grinding the calipers but don't want to ruin the rim to find out it doesn't work. I talked to Ed(2000sarara) and I agree that re centering the rims would put me to far out, if need be I would go with some 1 1/2" to 2" adapter spacers and not f-up my lug pattern. I posted on pirate, maybe someone else has had this problem.

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