Jeep YJ Build Up

  • Here we go, just got back from deployment and its time to get all these parts in the shed on the jeep. Here were the specs as of last year.



    92 Jeep YJ
    2.5 and 5 speed tranny
    Dana 30 and Dana 35 locked
    33in goodyear MT'Rs



    Mods completed before i left:



    Swapped in a rebuilt 4.0 out of a 2000 Tj and harness
    Rebuilt a NV-3350 and added a Centerforce stage 2 clutch
    Picked up a Rubi transfer case
    Added Tom woods shafts
    New gauges and such
    New belly skid



    Mods that are left to do:



    Lift SOA 1.5in Rubicon express
    New wheels, Crager 8 on 6.5 steeles, with KORE bead lock kit
    New tires, Pitbull rockers 37 1350 R 16's
    FSJ Dana 44 and Dana 60, 4.88 with spool in the rear
    New steering from ECGS, high steer and 1 ton ends
    New Hydro Assist and parts
    Boatsides
    Tube Fenders
    Led tailights
    New onboard air system, with 2 tanks
    I have to rewire dash and eletrical system including dual batterys
    and other stuff



    Anyway i started today by cutting all the brackets off the front axle and shaving down the right side spring perch about 3/4 an inch to make the axle level. My question is what is a normal pinion angle for a front axle with a SOA lift? I'm at about 15 degrees right now, ill have to post the pics later because photo bucket is being stupid.




  • IMHO you need to address caster before worrying too much about your pinion angle unless you're planning on rotating your inner c's. You run too little caster and that things gonna wander all over the place and have no return-to-center.

  • well i did some reading and found that the Yj's stock caster is about 4 degrees, ill plan on setting this up and buying some shims so i can play with the pinion angle. ill bolt it down and use the high lift to see the the drive shaft binds, after all its a CV drivshaft to meet up with the rubi transfer case.


  • well i did some reading and found that the Yj's stock caster is about 4 degrees, ill plan on setting this up and buying some shims so i can play with the pinion angle. ill bolt it down and use the high lift to see the the drive shaft binds, after all its a CV drivshaft to meet up with the rubi transfer case.


    If 4 deg is stock, I'd plan on dropping the caster to something like 3 deg positive with those larger tires. Mine worked better at about 2 degrees less on my TJ with the larger tires.


    If you are running a hydro-assist you are going to have a crappy return to center anyway.


    If you think of it, post a pic of the boat sides when you get started with them. Looks good. :up:

  • Some teaser pics. The tires and rims and the way the axle will probuly sit, i have to find out the correct way to caculate caster. I have to get a new welder and finish off the wheels.

    [img width=800 height=597]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1127.jpg[/img]
    [img width=597 height=800]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1128.jpg[/img]
    [img width=597 height=800]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1129.jpg[/img]


  • i have to find out the correct way to caculate caster.


    Looks good to me...just make sure your angle finder is vertical when taking a measurement. Also might want to note if your axle has adjustable balljoints as they could throw off the 'true' measurement. Your a little stuck once it's done (save for shimming) unlike us linked guys as we can always fudge things a bit w/ arm adjustments.


    --Ian

  • Looks good man hopefully you get everything squared away...what backspacing do those wheels have? I couldn't fit the H1 beadlocks on the front axle without having to run wheel spacers, which is why I just went with the H2's. Good luck :beer:

  • The rims are 16x8s Crager soft 8's with 4.5" of backspacing, I test fitted them tier perfect, their designed to clear the calipers on full size axles. I can't wait to mount the tires, when you get your new jeep and I get my heep finished maybe we should hit up raush creek.


  • The rims are 16x8s Crager soft 8's with 4.5" of backspacing, I test fitted them tier perfect, their designed to clear the calipers on full size axles. I can't wait to mount the tires, when you get your new jeep and I get my heep finished maybe we should hit up raush creek.


    definitely man, i can't wait to see yours all put together :up: . should have mine in the next 2 weeks or so

  • Their bias ply, I got a good deal, their new with the nubs still on the all 4 tires and he personally delivered them to the house from north Carolina for 950- I was so happy, and the guy was so nice. I had and loved my Goodyear MT'Rs but I figured I'd give the Pitbulls a try. The main reason for the build up is this summer some friends from Vermont are going on a trip with me to Moab, Ut.

  • Well since i spent 2 hours shoveling the driveway i deiced to do somthing inside. Since my house has 3 circut boxes that are all full i have to make a extension cord for my welder that uses the dryer outlet. So i went to Lowes and picked up the dryer plug and the welder outlet for about 25.00 and went to harbor freight and picked up a heavy duty generatior cable for 60.00. Cut it and spliced it together, so i wired the thing as follows.

    the red and black go to the 30a fuses in the main box
    the white is the negative
    the green is the ground

    the only question is that since the dryer is a 4 prong and the welder is a 3 prong i combined the red and black so that the welder will pull off of the two fueses, correct? see pic


    [img width=597 height=800]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1144.jpg[/img]
    [img width=800 height=597]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1147.jpg[/img]
    [img width=800 height=597]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1145.jpg[/img]


  • You should not be using the white.


    Red goes to one, black to the other and of course green to ground.


    The way you have it wired you will only get 115V and you have both hots tied together. Not good.

  • Actually, You should not be using the green wire. Usually in extention cords the green is undersized. The center pin of a 3 pin dryer/range cord is for the Neutral wire. The neutral is always the white. To achieve 220v you need the neutral leg in the plug. The green has been added in recent years to send a direct short directly to the ground and on the dryer it is connected to the metal housing not the power block on the dryer. On a main circuit pannel the ground and the neutral buses are connected, but on sub pannels they should be on separate lug bars.

    Saying all that as long as the green wire is connected to the neural bus bar you are ok, but if it is undersized than you may have higher resistance in the cord and hurt the power supply on the welder. You are pretty luckey you did not plug it in with the black and red together. It would hve made a loud pop and probably melted something as the circuit breaker tripped.


  • Actually, You should not be using the green wire. Usually in extention cords the green is undersized. The center pin of a 3 pin dryer/range cord is for the Neutral wire. The neutral is always the white. To achieve 220v you need the neutral leg in the plug. The green has been added in recent years to send a direct short directly to the ground and on the dryer it is connected to the metal housing not the power block on the dryer. On a main circuit pannel the ground and the neutral buses are connected, but on sub pannels they should be on separate lug bars.

    Saying all that as long as the green wire is connected to the neural bus bar you are ok, but if it is undersized than you may have higher resistance in the cord and hurt the power supply on the welder. You are pretty luckey you did not plug it in with the black and red together. It would hve made a loud pop and probably melted something as the circuit breaker tripped.


    You do not need neutral to get 220V.


    Red and black are both at 110V in relation to ground and each other. Together they make 220V.

  • well what i did is cut the white wire down and bent it over and taped it so it was secure and will not move around. the wires are all the same gauge so i dont think ill have any major grounding issues i hooked up the wires and will test it when my welder arrives. heres what i did:

    [img width=597 height=800]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1148.jpg[/img]

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