Locations for cutting brake handles?

  • I'm messing around with where to put my handles in my Jeep and it's turning into a bigger PITA than expected. So far, the best location I can find is to the right of the shifter but it's going to take some passenger leg room out.
    Like so:
    [img width=800 height=478]http://i916.photobucket.com/al…d2/knoxrents/IMAG0547.jpg[/img]


    I scoured the web and didn't see anything much better. This looked promising but this dude is running a double lever set-up and mine are single lever with dual pistons (to operate all four wheels independently) so mine are too tall to fit like this.


    There is almost no room due to the wider Corbeau seats too. Keep in mind these have a forward and a back stroke so I need to keep the handles centered as much as possible so they don't hit the dash, seats, center console, me, etc. If anyone has seen a better spot or if you have any outside the box thinking, ideas would be appreciated. :help:

  • Couldn't you cut the length of the levers down and reweld them so you wouldn't need so much room for the stroke?


  • Couldn't you cut the length of the levers down and reweld them so you wouldn't need so much room for the stroke?


    I've thought about that. I was worried about cutting it too short and not having enough leverage so I'd rather start long and work from there. I'll likely end up chopping it down if there is minimal effort when it get's hooked up.



    Can you run a cutting brake setup with a spool or do you need something that will allow it to slip?


    You wouldn't split the brakes with a spool. You would run front and back rather than individually. I am running Detroits so it's not an ideal set-up but once the axle is disengaged, it will release so it was worth it for me to split all of the wheels up. I just can't do three wheel digs like someone with a selectable could do.



    My latest idea is to try to sneak it under the tub and flip the handles upside down. I'd lose my cup holders but I'm going to look further into it.
    Here is the possible mounting location under the tub. Need to measure some more to make sure the flange, cv, and shaft aren't going to hit. I'm doubtful this is going to work but it's worth checking into.
    [img width=800 height=478]http://i916.photobucket.com/al…d2/knoxrents/IMAG0548.jpg[/img]


    It looks like I can flip the handle without a problem so that I can use the mounting plate to bolt to the tub.
    [img width=800 height=478]http://i916.photobucket.com/al…d2/knoxrents/IMAG0549.jpg[/img]

  • The visor already takes up that space...


    Thanks Artie (and peanut gallery). I've been fighting pulling the console for awhile. I even made sure the seats would fit before I ordered them. It's got my crappy stock sub-woofer in it, stores my junk, and is a more comfortable arm rest than two steel brake levers. If it's gotta go, it's gotta go, but I'm going to do my best to keep it.



    Are there any issues getting the brakes bled if you mount those upside down or on funny angles?


    It need's to be level and upright when bleeding because the fittings are on top but I figured since I'm using flexible lines, once they are bled, they could be flipped upside down. Hmmmm, that would make it a total PITA if they ever got air in them again. Even though they are below the reservoir, an air pocket would be trapped. Good catch. Thanks.

  • You still have an ebrake? How bout like this or would it interfere with your lazy boy seats?


    This is the underside where he notched the console.....

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
    2000 Cherokee Police package, Beater....


    I may be slowest and the stupidest

  • How often do you use your console? I know some of the more base TJ came with jus the shifter area and maybe on cup holder (no console). Might be worth looking into on of them and mounting them next to the e-brake. Seems that should still give you enough leverage to push/pull.

  • i would ditch the center console and put the shift boots on the the floor, then you will have tons of room for mounting the sticks

    or

    you could flip them 180 (so the valves were facing the rear of the jeep, so 180 degrees oppise of how your holding it in the first pic) and mount it right next to the e brake, cut out the cup holders but jeep the console, i think that would work best for what your doing. just a thought

  • Try removing all the plastic at the point where the cup holder splits going towards the firewall. . You might find a good spot there, Also you might be able to relocate/change out your automatic shifter.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !


  • How often do you use your console? I know some of the more base TJ came with jus the shifter area and maybe on cup holder (no console). Might be worth looking into on of them and mounting them next to the e-brake. Seems that should still give you enough leverage to push/pull.


    I use the console all the time. Like I said, it even has my sub...not that I can hear it with no top and a loud exhaust. ;) The push/pull you mentioned is the problem. If the levers are not forward enough, it's going to be a bitch to pull back on them for the rear brakes. I could angle the levers to compensate.



    You still have an ebrake? How bout like this or would it interfere with your lazy boy seats?


    Still running an e-brake. I need it for PA inspection. And yeah....my lazy boy recliners would hit if I did it like that. ;)



    Also you might be able to relocate/change out your automatic shifter.


    My pic is the 1st one with the manual shifter. The others (including Ed's) are from Pirate.


    Thanks guys. There's some good stuff to think about. I only want to run the lines once so I'm planning the best I can.


    After this, the Jeep is done. :hysterical:

  • If its a push pull type single lever, wouldn't mounting it sideways so that the lever would be pushed to the side thats being braked??



    I understand that the human arm is not as strong in that plane but just thinking out loud.



    -Brad

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.


  • If its a push pull type single lever, wouldn't mounting it sideways so that the lever would be pushed to the side thats being braked??
    I understand that the human arm is not as strong in that plane but just thinking out loud.


    They need to be mounted level so so that air can bleed. They will be set up so the right handle cuts the right side and the left cuts the left. ex. Push forward on right lever actuates the front right brake. Push forward on both and it locks the whole axle. Left lever back...left rear brake, etc.
    And yes, moving those levers laterally would be harder.


  • They need to be mounted level so so that air can bleed. They will be set up so the right handle cuts the right side and the left cuts the left. ex. Push forward on right lever actuates the front right brake. Push forward on both and it locks the whole axle. Left lever back...left rear brake, etc.
    And yes, moving those levers laterally would be harder.



    I wasn't saying lay them flat just rotate them.



    I just thought from reading this" mine are single lever with [color=rgb(51, 68, 102)]dual pistons[/color] " that it was just one single lever. Gotch.



    Looks like its time to start bending up some custom levers then to clear everything.



    -Brad

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.

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