Reccomend me a Powdercoater

  • Genright Alum tire carrier is in the mail!! :spinrhead: Can someone recomend a good powder coater local to the newark and surounding area? Thanks in advance!

  • from my experience, powdercoating in this area will eventually flake, rust and look like crap. Ive had parts blasted, plated and powdercoated and get about 2-3 years before they start showing rust. I'd recommend a good primer and paint, instead, as the finish will last longer, and you will be able to touch it up now and then as it begins to show signs of age....can't touch up powdercoating properly without stripping and reapplying.


    just my .02. I dont remember the name, but i used a place in newark by BJ's they stood behind their product and offered to re-do the coating after the 2 years...instead i had them blast it off and i used primer and VHT roll bar paint,


  • I dont remember the name, but i used a place in newark by BJ's they stood behind their product and offered to re-do the coating after the 2 years...instead i had them blast it off and i used primer and VHT roll bar paint,


    Prestige powder coating in the DE industrial park. I've had them do a few things in the past and always been happy. Powdercoating definitely isn't the end-all-be-all that some claim but it is a fairly tough coating that looks good. I've had the best luck on small parts and wheels but shy away from it anymore for bumpers, rocker guards, for all the reasons that Dave mentioned.


    Might also shoot a note to Ed Laurie (TheMistaken) as one of his friends was doing powdercoating down in the Dover area too.


  • If its Aluminum , have it anodized. Powder coats dont bond so well to Al. I have no idea the pricing, but it will outlast any powder coat. Plus there are some very cool colors.


    This place in Wilmington looks really good...



    http://www.industraplate.com/

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

    Edited once, last by deadfeat ().

  • Properly prepped, PC does as well on aluminum as steel.


    Anodizing while nice when new, really doesn't hold up well when exposed to environmental elements.


    I agree PC works, and properly done will hold up ok. I think the main problem with PC on AL is the expansion coefficient, it tends to break the bond between the AL and the PC causing chipping.



    I would certainly pay them a visit and discuss the processes and see examples. They have several processes available, and you can get the Anodizing pretty thick (deep). They do heavy industrial anodizing.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

  • I agree PC works, and properly done will hold up ok. I think the main problem with PC on AL is the expansion coefficient, it tends to break the bond between the AL and the PC causing chipping.



    I would certainly pay them a visit and discuss the processes and see examples. They have several processes available, and you can get the Anodizing pretty thick (deep). They do heavy industrial anodizing.


    I would just use an aluminum prep and paint it.


    As said above, future maintenance will be much easier.

  • Thanks for all the replies! Im not dead set on powder coating, I was just under the impression that the adhesion with aluminium would be better with the PC than a standard rattle can paint option.. The anodizing is a great idea, I want to have it black to match the jeep and I'm afraid that the Anodizing will fade with sunlight ( correct me if im wrong here..) If I was to prep and paint it myself (which i would prefer) what would be the best way to go about it? Etching primer + Standard rattle can black???? What type of cleaner? and do you need to scuff it at all?

  • bare aluminium get my vote

    *bLaTaNt DiSrEgarD oFfRoAd*<br /><br />&quot;Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American Soldier. <br />One died for your soul; the other for your freedom.&quot;

  • Now that my brand new A to Z bumper is coming out of the powder coater today. Can you elaborate for why?


    While powder coating is very hard and durable if you drag it over a rock it will scratch and then it has a tendancy to flake off. Edges and corners have a tendency to flake off easier too. Then it is a huge pain to touch up. Just hitting it with some paint looks like hell. I'd rather skip the powder coat for an offroad truck and just stick to paint too.

  • The only real advantages to powder coating are at the manufactoring end. Since its non toxic and non hazardous it saves tons in cost and trouble over paint. Other advantage is no cure time so it can go right into a box and out the door.

  • [4 letter word] Powder Coating. Its not durable, its not easily fixable and its not easily matchable. It also fades.



    There is nothing good about PC for the consumer.



    Anodizing is still better the PC imho.



    End rant



    -Brad

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.

  • Now that my brand new A to Z bumper is coming out of the powder coater today. Can you elaborate for why?


    this area is very harsh on metal. salty winter roads, humid summers.... you will get 2-3 years out of it and you will notice rust starting in the little corners, rubbing points, ect. after 4 years you will be looking for someone to blast it off so you can prime/paint. after the rock rails, skid plates, and bumpers i have had, i buy them bare and prime and paint them with rustoleum....a quick wire brush and touch up once in a while, and you will look new for life.

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