Wheelbase Question

    What is a good wheelbase for a Jeep?



    I know that's a broard question, but where what I'm looking at. I have a 75 CJ-5 with no title and I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I have 1 ton axles and would be stretching the wheel base. I'm thinking a low center of gravity and tires in the 40" range, links, air or coil springs. I know this will be a big undertaking and before I start the question I have is, am I going to have enough wheelbase even after moving the axles? It only has a wheelbase of 83.5" now. What would be a good number to shoot for? I'm used to a long WB (125") on 44" tires, so I'm not to sure what I'm getting myself into with a SWB
    This is going to be a trail rig only, East Coast rocks mostly.

    Bob the back Lose the front fenders. Using full size axles, extend the front axles forward and the rear back so you have no approach or departure angles. Like below...



    [img width=1200 height=927]http://www.jeepz.com/forum/att…rawler-sale-hard-230-.jpg[/img]

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

    103-106 works real nice, I think sal's is 113 and it climbs real nice but steers not as good. Frame length doesn't really matter if u do a 3 or 4 link everything attaches on the middle and u will have real good approach and departure angles. I would recommend ori struts or coilovers for the build. Air shocks list and body roll unpredictably and coils will severely limit comfort. Plan on plating the hell out of the frame to handle the loads.

    Quote from astape


    103-106 works real nice, I think sal's is 113 and it climbs real nice but steers not as good.


    101 used to be hotness for TJ's but yeah, I think that 103-106 has some nice balance.


    Sal's does great in a lot of areas at 113 but he loses breakover angle on some of the sharper steeper climbs. Like I said though, it does some amazing things anyway.

    Got the creeper and tape out when I got home....10lbs in a 5lbs bag jumps to mind :mrgreen: I think If I start planning with 75% of the increase going toward the front and see where that gets me. On the plus side,steering on going to much of a factor since the 60 is already set up for hydro....No the neg side, the cyl is mounted above the diff and the links are above the arms so frame clearance is going to be tight...So a new front frame section is going to be needed.......Yes the snowball is starting to roll ::) :mrgreen:

    Aaron, my wheelbase is 111.5" not 113. But I think mine doesn't turn as well as his due to a number of things, not only wheelbase: steering degree, type of steering, rear locker choice.


    Mine can crawl all over the place but the difference is negligible unless you are competing. I've never had issues with break over or getting stuck, or getting in a dangerous position due to turning radius.

    I run around 110"-111" and don't have too many issues with a completely flat skidded underside. Most of my stretch is in the front as I run my steering behind the knuckle and was trying to keep the ram out of the harmonic balancer. Even stretched way out it's still in the way so I'm not sure it was needed. Like sal said break over angle issues are minimal (more gas pedal fixes that) and the extra length isn't the problem it's typically the steering. I have a hodgepodge hydro steering setup that works ok but the true issue is being Lincoln locked front and rear. It makes for unique turning often requiring the help of trees as pivot points. Ideally I would shorten it a bit, maybe to 106-108" and just add some bumpstop for steering clearance. Another thing Sal didn't mention is that he doesn't get into dangerous situations because his rig has the stance of a formula 1 car with his 2.5" backspace wheels and full with axles. :mrgreen:

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
    2000 Cherokee Police package, Beater....


    I may be slowest and the stupidest

    Mine is about 105" and I've been happy with it. I originally had a flat skid flush with the frame rails but needed a little more room so the new one has an inch or so drop. Most of my stretch was moving the front forward.

    Quote from Solomi


    Cheap and easy ... Cheap and easy ... Takes me everywhere expensive and overbuilt takes you fools :)


    Are we having a cheap discussion? Well..just slap some coil springs on and throw a spare spring in truck. :innocent: and while you're at it, Make sure you use some old dry MTRs so you dont get too much traction and break a shaft

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