I write this as a cautionary guide to anyone looking to do this swap – nothing
goes as planned.
First I want to thank everyone who assisted me on this little ride on the
drama train. Despite the end result and my current frustration I don’t want to
come off unappreciative. I am really grateful for the help of so many people
on four different forums – I couldn’t have gotten to this point without you. I
want to especially thank my good friend Nick who spent several of his valuable
nights getting covered in oil and rust on my behalf.
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For years I’ve heard on here (and the yahoo group, and the jeepforum, and my
local group DelawareJA) that the Ba10 to Ax15 is an easy, almost “bolt-in”
swap that is considered an improvement on almost all levels. I was sold… truth
be known, maybe I still am, but this swap was anything but simple and quick.
Quick rundown of events:
- Bought 1998 XJ Ax15/NP231 and front D30 $500.00
- LuK Flywheel LFW193 - $74.96
- LuK Clutch Kit 05-901 - $198.93
- Luk Slave Cylinder LSC309 - $40.51
- Advanced Adapter Clutch Pilot Bushing 716164 - $27.42
Started the teardown. Realized the previous owner did a lot of custom wiring
and backyard fixes. Took Longer than I expected. Eventually the old Ba10 was
out of the truck and sitting in the driveway. After numerous attempts the old
clutch pilot bearing would not come out. I tried the “paper towel trick” the
“grease trick” and the “bolt trick.” Ended up having to purchase a dedicated
bearing puller that ended up being too big for the bearing and too small for
the puller. Needed to “rent” a puller from Autozone and grind down my new
tool. After three hours of beating the hell out of it, the bearing eventually
sheared apart and was able to be removed.
- OTC Bearing Puller 4421 - $18.96
Once the bearing was out I began the long process of cleaning EVERYTHING and
beginning the install process. First thing I discovered was the supposed ’74
304 bushing I was sent wasn’t even close to fitting… by inches… Build stopped
awaiting new bushing.
- Omix-Ada Clutch Pilot Bushing 16910.04 - $2.98
While researching bushing I come across knowledge that I cannot use the Ax15
flywheel on the new setup.
- Luk Flywheel LFW194 - $58.54
Installed Bushing, Flywheel, and clutch with no issue. Installed the
transmission. The included Xj crossmember had a TC skid attached that required
grinding off. I matched up the “Ax15” crossmember mounting holes and it
appeared they have never been threaded. No problem.
- Irwin M10x1.5 Thread Tap - $8.95.
Tapped all but one mounting hole before tap broke. Went back to the store for
another tap – sold out.
- Irwin M10x1.25 Thread Tap - $8.95
Once threaded I discovered the old studs from the Ba10 needed to be cut off
for the new crossmember to fit. First unplanned modification. Cut the studs.
The crossmember does not fit. Another entire night spent forcing it into place
until finally it clicks. All bolts, CPS, and starter installed. Take the jack
stand out and the transmission is officially in.
Now for the slave cylinder. The old slave has a stud and bolt combo, but the
98 Xj master does not. Take the Dremel to the stud. Second unplanned
modification. Once I clean up the firewall I run the slave cylinder down
through the motor and start lining everything up. The 98 Xj master cylinder
does not fit between the brake booster and fuse box. More research shows I now
need a 1995 Xj master cylinder.
- Sachs SPH011 Clutch Master/Slave Assembly - $122.95
New Master is setup for old firewall. Forced to now drill out old stud and
replace with bolt.
- Grade 8 Bolt and Nut - $2.25
Finally install new Clutch Master cylinder and move inside. The new master
cylinder push rod does not fit pedal assembly. Ended up having to drill out
the plunger loop which is now uncomfortably thin in my opinion.
- Dewalt ½ Drill Bit - $4.95
Move underneath the truck. Install the slave cylinder without incident. Go to
install the 1998 clutch shift linkage. Does not fit, not even close.
Inspection reveals I do not need a transfer case shift linkage, but the
bracket that mounts to the inner transmission tunnel. The part that fits to
the floorpan. The old 98 has long been scrapped at this point so I ended up
doing some more shopping. Needed to buy another complete shift linkage from
another junkyard.
- OEM Shift Linkage with correct Bracket - $50
Go to install bracket and the floor under t paint is completely gone. Unable
to install. After some research I discovered a vender who makes a linkage that
does not install to the body work.
- Boostwerks Engineering 1023-2 Shift Linkage - $45.98
Boostwerks shift linkage bolts on with no issues at all. Time for the drive
shafts. 2 of the five U-joints have deteriorated beyond use. Decide to replace
all.
- (5x) Spicer 5153X U-Joint Kit - $65.40
Front driveshaft goes in without issue, but rear driveshaft is now way too
long to install. After review, with no good explanation as to why, finally
decide to just cut shaft.Third unplanned Modfication.
- Driveshaft Shortened 2.25in by Accubilt Salisbury - $92.50
Rear driveshaft installed, but concerns that it may still be too long for
permanent use. Go to start motor and truck does not run. Pull old CPS and
install new Autozone one.
- Duralast Crank Position Sensor SU3228 - $30.99
Truck doesn’t start. With no spark the only other option is the CmPS.
- Standard Motor Products LX234 Ignition Pick Up - $6.95
Truck doesn’t start. Purchase a quality (read: not from AutoZone) CPS from a
reliable source.
- Airtex 5S1799 Crankshaft Position Sensor - $38.99
Truck doesn’t start. Exhaustive diagnostic points to a bad CPS. Go to second
Mj (Scarlet,) verify it starts and runs as it should. Pull Scarlets CPS,
install it on Gracie. Gracie does not start. Install new Airtex on Scarlet,
starts right up. In a Hail-Mary attempt I drill out the 5/16 upper hole on the
original CPS to 3/8 and re-install. Truck starts, runs rough.
Still need reverse lights and a shift knob, but neither are critical.
Change drive train fluids, engine, transmission, and transfer case.
On the 99th day of a 3 day transmission swap the truck is ready to run. I
close up everything, take her for a couple of neighborhood runs and everything
feels tight and ready. Take her out on the highway – transmission develops a
VERY loud tick of metal on metal. It has no reliable 3rd gear and the syncro
is completely gone in reverse requiring it to be ground into gear to back up.
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So 380 total days and $1,401.16 later I am right back where I started. Driving
a jeep whose transmission is going to leave me on the side of the road sooner
than later…