The seat that the bearing race sits on cracked or just the bearing race? If it's the actual hub that cracked then replace it. The bearing race can be tapped out for replacement.
I seem to remember the ball joints having to be tapped in, not sure whether it was half way down or not. Make sure the surfaces sliding together are good and you might put a thin coating of 3&1 oil on them to help them slide together.
Do you have a way to verify the size of the new parts are to OEM spec?
On the ball joint, I would clean and check carefully for cracks, but if it takes a press to seat it I would probably call it good.
The bearing race should be tight in the bore and require driving in with a race driver and hammer. If it has play in there, then the bearing probably seized and spun at some point, damaging the bore. Sometimes a bore can be tightened up by carefully using a center punch on the inside of the bore. When you center punch it makes a depression but it also raises the area around the depression. This raised area tightens up the bore. If you make about three rows of dimples about a quarter inch apart all the way around the area where the race goes it will probably tighten up. Don't hit it so hard that there is metal hanging out of the dimples, or it will break off when you drive the race in and prevent it from seating at the bottom.
Loctite also makes several types of bearing mount products to help with applications like this.
Loctite also makes several types of bearing mount products to help with applications like this.
I use it all the time at work, tends to be green.
But I typically use it on sealed ball bearing assemblys.
And it's usually at least a snug fit before the loctite.
If the race can be easily set into the bore and spun with a finger I'd think it's wallowed out to the point of replacement.
For what it's worth, the bearing inner race really has nothing at all to keep it from spinning. The nice, smooth, newly greased bearings are supposed to roll on the races and not really exert much spinning force on the race.
Harley guys routinely "peen" bores and such to be able to use old and irreplaceable parts., it's a pretty accepted practice.
For what it's worth, the bearing inner race really has nothing at all to keep it from spinning. The nice, smooth, newly greased bearings are supposed to roll on the races and not really exert much spinning force on the race.
Harley guys routinely "peen" bores and such to be able to use old and irreplaceable parts., it's a pretty accepted practice.
I whole heartedly agree.
I'd feel way better making it a tighter fit mechanically than counting on what is basically a super glue type bond.
The knuckle isn't -- it's the '77-'79 disc brake one with the 6-bolt caliper mount -- so I'll keep an eye out for one on ebay just in case.
Can the 2 bolt knuckle be used if you unbolt the 2 bolt caliper bracket? Have you made sure the you couldn't get the ball joint to press in after a little sanding and light lube? If I remember right I was able to tap them in with a good hammer and large socket.
Another option is to get some Chevy Dana 44 flat top knuckles and go for a high steer set up. As I recall they will work on a Dana 30.
click for image]click for image
Parts Mike has a whole package set up.
http://www.partsmike.com/index…rch%5Bsort_by%5D=name_asc
I'm running them on my Dana 44. It really picks the tie rod up and out of the way while decreasing the angle of the drag link.
[img width=1200 height=1060]http://www.delawareja.com/gall…nloadItem&g2_itemId=24187[/img]
So I guess the ball joints were too loose after all. I hope your luck changes!
How bad did they beat you for the tow home from RC?
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