Just so I don't clutter up the T-Rex Tread.....I just installed a 4-link and 16" struts in the back of my rig and will be running them for the first time down at Harlan in a couple of weeks. I'm wondering what are the adj procedures? I know what to do with the initial set up, but what are the changes I need to do once I see how they act? Which pressure adj changes what?
I know there's a brake in time with struts, so am I just going to be wasting my time trying to make changes to soon?
ORI Struts
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Do you have a nitrogen tank, regulator, gauges, and schrader style fill fittings?
I'm not sure how heavy you are in the rear but you'll want to start at about 110-120 psi of nitrogen in the lower chamber and then you'll want to set the upper chamber to ride height which will be over 300 psi.
Keep in mind that the struts will stick so you may have to lift a little on the bumper to get it to raise and fill the chamber. Then you'll want to drive it around for a bit and see where it settles again for ride height. It takes a little trial and error initially but once you get them set, they are relatively maintenance free.
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Yes I do have the tank/reg/gauge setup. The rig is pretty light in the back, 160psi got me to ride height. Still have to put some tools on there so that pressure might be going up some. The lower pressure I'm starting on the low side 60psi.
I guess my main question is, what ride characteristies are effected by changing which valve pressure?
Are you running a rear sway bar? Running pressures that low will be super unstable. You will have a lot of body roll. That seems very low to me but give it a try I guess and go from there.
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You don't want it to bounce when u jump on the bumper
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It didn't move at all. I'm about 200lbs....Now granted I didn't jump up and down on the thing, but I did hop. When I run it up on the lift, they do fully extend and when lowered back down they do go back to ride height...So they are moving.Ha. I totally get what you're saying. I got my ORI's from Zach at AtoZ Fab after talking to Aaron about them and I was probably one of the first orders to come in so I had no idea what to expect. Like you, I can jump up and down on the bumper and there is zero movement but when I drive, they are smooth as glass. The ORI's really act like no other shock I've ever seen.
The problem with running low pressures is that the upper and lower chambers on the ORI's actually work against each other for stability so when there isn't a lot of pressure, they don't stabilize very well. I've also noticed that they suck up any bounce better than anything I've ever run. If I were to drop my Jeep from a few feet up, it would literally hit the ground and look like it landed in glue. It's very impressive.
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I blame Aaron too
I talked to once last year and I was hooked on the benefits of them. I quess I'll try and see what their like with the lower pressure low, then pump them up to 90 psi and see........Sure beats ordering new springs everytime with coilovers. -
I dont think u want to be below 90psi on the bottom. There is not really a relationship between the top and bottom pressure. If u have coils or leafs in the fronts they will help with the sway but the compression will be real soft. Also I would check your guage. I have never seen a set of oris lift with less then 300 psi. Ori also has setup info on here web site.
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given the same weight and ride height, lower pressure in the bottom will dictate lower pressure up top (to get to the same ride height).
so if you have 60 in lowers, i would expect much less than 300 in the uppers.
when the shock compresses, the upper chamber increases in pressure. when the shock extends, the bottom chamber increases in pressure.
i think the manual recommends 90 in lowers as a starting point for a typical 5k rig, like a 1 ton jeep.
I run about what aaron said (100-120 in bottom) and 5 inches showing which is about 300-330 up top for me up front, and low 200s in rear. I'll have to find and share my spreadsheet with my ORI change log.
if you stick with 60s in the lowers and are about 5k in weight, let us know how it takes sidehills! (and show us some link pics)
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There's not much weight in the back, both tanks are full but the box is empty.
I'm going to play around with the pressures this weekend and see what happens......Trust me, when I do stupid things while wheeling there always seems to be a full film crew in action...Now if I pull off something great, there's not a sole around. -
There is not really a relationship between the top and bottom pressure.
Yes there is.
See Sals comments.
There's not much weight in the back, both tanks are full but the box is empty.Nice looking set-up.
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Just to clear this matter up, I started the ori craze
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Just to clear this matter up, I started the ori craze Question , why are ORIs so much better than coil overs?
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Just to clear this matter up, I started the ori craze
Yes you are!
Question , why are ORIs so much better than coil overs?
They aren't better for a lot of stuff. Coil overs are way better for high speed. ORI's do moderate wheeling and crawling very well within a small package. -
Question , why are ORIs so much better than coil overs?
Also, they are very easy/cheap to tune. With coil overs, you have to swap out springs and disassemble. Ori's, you just adjust pressures
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I would say that an ori is about 90% as good as a well tuned coilover. The issue is, to get a coilover well tuned sometimes takes many coil spring changes, tuning days and a fairly good knowdge base.
The cost of an ori is a little more then a co but u dont need swaybars, bumpstops or limit staps. By the time u add up the extra items and try to fit them on a jeep the oris are a more attractive option.
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Cool, looks like they are $500 -800 per corner. Maybe on the someday when I am rich list.
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