TJ listing to starboard

  • I've known for some time now that my 98 TJ has had a very slight lean to it; the passenger side is lower. Well, that difference has become pronounced. Measuring from my AtoZ rock rails just in front of the rear tires, there's about 1 1/4" difference -- huge! I know this might not capture it, but here's a picture from the rear:



    In 2008 I installed a Fabtech 4" suspension lift. The major weight additions are the front and rear bumpers, the AtoZ side armor, and the winch. I called Fabtech about this, thinking that one or two springs are the issue, and the best they'll do is give me a discount on purchasing new springs. (Springs are not covered under the lifetime warranty.) So, questions......


    Do any other DEJA TJ owners have this issue?
    If not the springs, what is the common cause of leaning to the passenger side? More important, what is the fix?
    Can coil springs be reconditioned to restore their original size/strength? If so, is that cost effective?


    Any other thoughts on this are appreciated. Unless you're on a sailboat, listing to starboard stinks!!

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • Take a measurement from tje top of the axle to the frame rail to make sure the droop is in your suspension and not a bad body mount. Also, I would check that the spring mounts (buckets) are in good shape and not rusted or bent.


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  • If its level when you drive it, it would indicate the driver may be in need of a healthy diet and exercise program. Or consider gaining significant weight.

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    Edited once, last by deadfeat ().

  • Slowpoke and Deadfeat both make excellent points! I will commence working on the driver's weight right away! Actually, I'm embarrassed to say that I did not think about the tire pressure. I run 33" tires. I put a gauge on the PS rear tire, and sure enough it was low at 22psi. I brought it back to 33psi, and of course that had an impact -- the difference went from 1 1/4" to just 1/2".


    Slimer, I hopefully measured correctly as you suggested. I'm not sure I did exactly what you had in mind, but the measurements were about the same from DS to PS. So, to figure out what accounts for the remaining 1/2" of lean, am back to the springs and the body mounts.


    I've heard before that TJs leaning to PS is a fairly normal thing, but I don't get it. Why would that be?

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • TJs are notorious for leaning to the right, especially with lift springs. It's mainly due to the torque compressing down on that side. Some lift kits give a different for the passenger side vs the driver side to help compensate for that.


    Fwiw, take two measurements... from the center of the wheel up to the edge of the flare and from the ground to the edge of the flare. Compare those left and right. That'll show you the difference made by the tires. From there, try measuring the distance between the frame body mounts and the tub to get an idea if the bushings are good.

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

  • Thanks Jerry. It'll be hard to measure from the center of the wheel, because of the nature of the MT Classic II wheels. The cap is recessed back a fair amount, so it's not a straight line measurement. For the body mount measurements, I'll do that, but just making a visual inspection they seemed to be the same all the way around.


    Since my last post, Fabtech did just offer to sell me four new springs for $150 plus shipping. I don't have money to blow, but I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to replace my 8-year-old springs with new ones for around $200 (allowing $50 for shipping). Anyone have an opinion on that? Or should I simply swap the DS and PS springs that I already have? Or, option 3, should I just live with the slight lean that now exists (now that I have the tires properly inflated)?

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • How does it sit when you're in it? Have your son take a photo and see if it sits level then. If it still has the lean, go ahead and see what swapping the springs will do. Personally, I'd take them up on the offer to swap out the springs, it'll certainly help in the back for when you start towing your trailer.

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

  • Thanks Jerry. It'll be hard to measure from the center of the wheel, because of the nature of the MT Classic II wheels. The cap is recessed back a fair amount, so it's not a straight line measurement. For the body mount measurements, I'll do that, but just making a visual inspection they seemed to be the same all the way around.


    Since my last post, Fabtech did just offer to sell me four new springs for $150 plus shipping. I don't have money to blow, but I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to replace my 8-year-old springs with new ones for around $200 (allowing $50 for shipping). Anyone have an opinion on that? Or should I simply swap the DS and PS springs that I already have? Or, option 3, should I just live with the slight lean that now exists (now that I have the tires properly inflated)?

    If you are thinking about swapping sides to me it would be worth $200 to put new ones in.

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