Frame repair sections

    • Frame repair sections

      I've installed a lot of these and the parts have been pretty pricey. The rear control arm section runs about $200 from Quad or Morris4x4. I wanted to point out that Rock Auto is selling them now for $110. They onl currently show the control arm sections but I thought I would pass it along.
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    • link? I was never a fan of the Caps for the frames, i would rather cut the section out and butt weld a new one in its place then coat the inside
    • I used frame repair sections on mine. I cut the rusted section of the frame, slid the repair section over top, and welded. The repair sections are nice and beefy. Much easier than making them yourself
      :spinrhead: ...covfefe... :spinrhead:
    • Meeper wrote:

      link? I was never a fan of the Caps for the frames, i would rather cut the section out and butt weld a new one in its place then coat the inside
      Try this...

      rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8496600&cc=1316023&jsn=431

      They are listed under Body-Frame Repair Sections. Look the same as the Auto Rust Ones. I'm probably going to order one in a week for my mom's TJ.
      Lightning Fabrication - 484-667-7475
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    • i just did some repair on my 03 TJ frame, pass side nutserts all needed replaced, ground the heads off beat the old rivet back in and riveted new ones in from Blackmagicbrakes, they worked great!
    • they only work if there is still metal left on that part of the frame. Most of the repairs i do have the rear lca mount cracking off and the frame falls apart in the center when the skud is pulled.
      '88 YJ with not much '88 left. :)
      Team Mall Crawler #609
      Werock Stock Class we-rock.cc
      Werock '06 - 2nd East Coast, 5th overall Werock '07 - 3rd East Coast Sponsored by: The Drive Shaft Shop driveshaftshop.com Delaware Jeep Assoc. delawareja.com
    • My frame rails are solid I was just wondering the procedure he used for installation.
      Reading "on line" they talk about a nut larger than the bolt with a couple of washers and a whole list of preparation instructions.
      I have removed all the old nutserts and am in the process of cleaning and prepping the the area.
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      2003 Sport.
    • Captain wrote:

      My frame rails are solid I was just wondering the procedure he used for installation.
      Reading "on line" they talk about a nut larger than the bolt with a couple of washers and a whole list of preparation instructions.
      I have removed all the old nutserts and am in the process of cleaning and prepping the the area.
      I've used that method before and it does work but I had to revisit them later as you end up with the same problem down the road. Aaron had some sweet machined inserts that he had made which were more of a permanent solution and the other option is to use a flanged nut in the appropriate size and weld the flange to the frame rail. Both of those solutions will avoid the issue of the nutsert spinning in the future as it's a solid insert that's welded to the frame.

      If you end up going the OE-style nutsert route they're cheaper through McMaster-Carr than through the dealer (if you can still get them there) and when installing with the nut/washer method I highly recommend an impact gun.

      --Ian
    • astape wrote:

      they only work if there is still metal left on that part of the frame. Most of the repairs i do have the rear lca mount cracking off and the frame falls apart in the center when the skud is pulled.
      This is what I'm afraid of on Jen's TJ. When I was replacing her brakelines this weekend I was noting how crusty things had gotten under there in just the past year or so. All its time on the beach in the past didn't do it any favors. Things appear solid but who knows how it looks inside the frame. I plan on attacking things with a wirewheel, rustbullet, and then chassis black but I have an evil feeling it'll eventually need some of the caps.

      --Ian
    • you can not get them for the Trans cross member at dealer for 03-06 modesl, you can get the nut serts for the front auto trans skid though.

      when i did mine the frame was still solid there just lots of rust flaked off inside... i ground the heads off like you did, tapped the rest up into the frame, i bought a M12x1.75 bolt, flat washer, larger nut than the M12 i think it was 5/8" and a star washer. I went bolt, flat washer, nut, star washer and then nutsert. held the nut and tightened the bolt with a 12" breaker bar and they were super easy to compress. i basically went until it felt tighter than normal. I can take some photos tonight if you like.

      I personally refuse to do that caps, i would rather coat the inside of frame and pray. worst case find a new frame or possibly just patch it panel by panel
    • Meeper wrote:

      I personally refuse to do that caps, i would rather coat the inside of frame and pray. worst case find a new frame or possibly just patch it panel by panel
      You have said this before. I personally think the caps work great. Swapping a frame is way more labor intensive and that cap is going to be stronger than butt welding sections in and grinding smooth.
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    • shadyluke wrote:

      Meeper wrote:

      I personally refuse to do that caps, i would rather coat the inside of frame and pray. worst case find a new frame or possibly just patch it panel by panel
      You have said this before. I personally think the caps work great. Swapping a frame is way more labor intensive and that cap is going to be stronger than butt welding sections in and grinding smooth.

      Caps are an easy install for a shop to do and a good band aid. i dont thnk its the right way to do it. You cant possibly get the control arm hole/geometry in the right spot every time. Plus the inside will just rust out on you again. only way to do it correctly is paint it from the inside i think Eastwood has a kit for that purpose
    • that eastwood kit is worthless unless u have a new frame. If u see what the insides look like when i open them up there us no way to coat and stop the existing rust. In most cases it takes 15-20 years for the frames to get this bad. Usually with a lot of winter or beach driving. In most cases the next 20 years of the jeeps life is less abusive so it should hold up a lot better. To each his on but the caps are a proven fix for a fraction of a frame swap cost.
      '88 YJ with not much '88 left. :)
      Team Mall Crawler #609
      Werock Stock Class we-rock.cc
      Werock '06 - 2nd East Coast, 5th overall Werock '07 - 3rd East Coast Sponsored by: The Drive Shaft Shop driveshaftshop.com Delaware Jeep Assoc. delawareja.com
    • I damaged my chassis last year and I didn't want to replace it completely so I found a used model like mine and cut the pieces that I needed to weld it to mine. It's not that bad of an idea to try fixing things on your own if it can really save you money. It's also the case with my furniture not only my car. I had some chairs that I really liked as they were vintage, but not in an ideal state to have in the house. Since I have the best benchtop jointer I realized I could cut new legs myself and fit them to them. The result was quite good for a first attempt.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Comesen ().