• I mainly bought it to have something to do trail runs with and one day take to Easter jeep safari. We have the LJ for an every day vehicle. I don't want an all out rock crawler just something to run blue/green trails



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    Get enough lift to clear 33s and you will be good. Sometimes I think I had more fun wheeling my Jeep on 33s than on 40s.


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  • Not sure what rear differential that has but if it's a Dana 35 you'll want to upgrade that. The Dana 30 is probably fine but I think some upgrade to a high pinion Dana 30?


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    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Get enough lift to clear 33s and you will be good. Sometimes I think I had more fun wheeling my Jeep on 33s than on 40s.


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    I agree with Luke. 3.5 lift and 33’s to start. On a TJ, 2 inch with 1.25 inch body lift would be good too). Even with the Dana 35, leave it open and don’t be heavy on the gas and you will be able to do greens/blues for a while till something breaks. I learned a lot wheeling a Tj on 33’s. Rebuilt, locked and went to 35’s and it got too easy.



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  • little update, bought a Rollbar, windshield bar,tailgate bar and door surrounds over the weekend. Wow those Rollbar bolts kicked my ass. I tried everything to get them out. After 3 broken bits, can of pb blaster, handful of broken knuckles and countless F bombs I finally got the old bar out. I put a fresh coat of paint on the new one and got it thrown in. Want to get some new bolts before I tighten it down all the way. I just now hooked up the light switch and got all.y lights working. Blinkers are acting a little goofy but after I clean up the contacts on the switch it should be OK.



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  • Oh that poor windshield frame! Definitely different... will be nice to see what you do with it. :) Paint it bright orange so we can see it. ;)


    OH and I found out they were not rivets in the windshield. The moron had 20 masonry screws across the front and 20 drywall screws on the top. I already found a replacement frame that's already moss green. Some of the things he did to this jeep kill me



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  • OH and I found out they were not rivets in the windshield. The moron had 20 masonry screws across the front and 20 drywall screws on the top. I already found a replacement frame that's already moss green. Some of the things he did to this jeep kill me

    oh jeez! I'm sorry, but I'm laughing over here. :laughabove: I can't imagine using screws for that, but I know a lot of people have no idea of what tools to use. Like wire nuts on automotive projects...


    You might want to pick up an impact gun if you're gonna be messing around with the Jeep for bigger projects, they can make projects a lot easier. Especially with rusty bolts. There are a lot of good electric ones out now, although I'm sticking with air for the time being. Just upgraded my garage compressor!

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

  • a liberal use of map gas torch heat works well for pulling the roll cage bolts. Worst case i weld nuts to the top so i can put a hex socket on it.

  • The welding nuts on is a great idea. I'm thinking of buying a little mig welder soon. Don't really know how to weld but I figured I'll mess around with it (not on vehicles) till I know what I'm doing. I ended up using vise grips to break them loose. After that they came right out. None of them were really rusted In the threads though. I was thinking maybe they had some type of red locktite on them



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  • I typically grind/cut the bolt heads off and bang the bolt through


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    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • I typically grind/cut the bolt heads off and bang the bolt through


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    that would be a bad idea on a tj because a tj has 4 blind holes and the others are just hard to reach if u wanted to replace with a nut and bolt.


    Surprising on the not rusted thing.


  • Got my new wheels on last night and put the full doors on I bought. Have to replace a window regulator in one of them and adjust both doors. I wanted to get a new top and fenders first but I keep getting sidetracked with other deals. I got all 5 rims and tires for $500. The spare is brand new and the front two are more than 75% tread left. Also got a nice quadratec winch. (Thanks sandtostand)



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  • After a few hours of wet sanding I was able to remove the horrible camouflage paint job. I am going to remove all the old spray paint then try and spray it with clear. The green base is still good so I'm thinking it should look good with a clear coat applied. The only thing that will have to be painted is the doors I bought. I'm slowly getting there. I just hope the weather doesn't turn to fast since I'm "backyard mechanicing"



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  • I'm thinking primer! And what's wrong with the rivets?


    Nothing. But they don't look as great on many other vehicles as they do on yours.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

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