BlueJ's Broken

  • :sniffle: :sniffle: :sniffle:


    Well, for those who saw my performance on Voodoo trail Saturday, you know I messed up my jeep. Unfortunately, the trailside axle replacement didn't fix all the problems.


    When I took BlueJ out to fill up the tires on Sunday, I realized something else was wrong with the front axle. Here's what I experience: going straight or turning ever so slightly, seemed to work OK. Turning a little more caused major wobble in the front tires, feeling like lots of resistance. Tires chirped on the pavement. Much worse in reverse. Delayed reaction in turning. Bad noises (grinding and clanking) at crawling speed. All the same in 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo.


    My guess is that I toasted my front locker, and it's is not disengaging. Possibly gears too, but I hope not. Brian is going to stop over tomorrow and see what he thinks. Anyone else want to venture a guess?


    This is here in modifications, because it's time to upgrade! If it is the locker, what should I do? Get a straight replacement LockRight? That would be the easiest, just drop in. Or go for a Detroit in front also? How about ARB? Both would be much harder, since we'd need to reset the gears (and Aaron is pretty busy).


    I also want to take out Joe's spare axle shaft and upgrade. Got some prices, but not sure what the difference between "High Alloy" (expensive) and Chromoly (more expensive). Anyone?


    Should I look to buy whole assemblies (inner, u-joint, outer) or the separate components and put it together myself? (Of course, "myself" in this context means with a little help from my friends :suspicious: )


    All in all, not as bad as Orange Crush (R.I.P.), but still an expensive day on the trail.


    Thanks everyone!


    Andrew

  • If your locker was just "not disengaging" it wouldn't make grinding noises while going straight. I think it might be more serious unfortunately but it's hard to say without experiencing it first hand. I've heard problems of ARBs blowing when hooked to Dana 30's or 44's with 35" tires. But I think Aaron told me that it has something to do with the installation. With those tires your running, I'd go with the better (stronger).


    Maybe it's time to set up a Dana 44 for the front? I've kicked that around myself but I just don't wheel enough and don't see myself wheeling enough anytime in the near future to make it worthwhile.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • man all that to almost be in MCod...sucks to hear about all the damage, but damage means more upgrades :hmm: and I am sure Blue J will be back and running before we know it... :up:

  • MCOD is living up to it's name. It seems that more and more of you guys are only able to crawl the malls. :rolleyes:

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Quote from "Trouble"

    I didnt know there was inner ujoints






    Sounds to me like he's referring to inner axle shaft, u-joint, outer axle shaft. :peace:









  • Andrew,


    If you think that you are going to wheel for awhile, get yourself a HP D30 in Brian's Dad place. Put ARB locker with Warn alloy axles with Warm hub conversion. To wrap it up, get a pair of CTM joints. You should be all set until you need HP D60 down the road. my 2 cents.


    Later,

  • Andrew,
    sounds like some shaft/ joint issues. i wouldn't think the locker would go before a stock joint, but stranger things have happened.


    i guess you should find out what is actually wrong with it before you make plans.


    start from there and see what can be done.

  • The only thing that really goes wrong with a Lockright is the pins shear. There really arn't any other breakable parts unless you stripped some teeth. The pins are a $15 fix and you should not have messed anything else up in the diff.

  • Quote from "turtle"

    If you want to, Artie and I will be putting on his SYE Sunday. If you want to trailer the beast up to my house we can pull the diff cover and pull the shafts to see what is wrong with it.


    Mike, I may just take you up on this. It would have to be pretty early in the day, I have to head off to Chicago in the afternoon.


    Quote from "astape"

    The only thing that really goes wrong with a Lockright is the pins shear. There really arn't any other breakable parts unless you stripped some teeth. The pins are a $15 fix and you should not have messed anything else up in the diff.


    I'm pretty sure I did a number on it. Brian came over this afternoon, and looked it over, and he agrees. We can get the definite confirmation at Turtle's.


    Quote from "Simon"

    Da Mutt : clicked on you link about axles, and all I got was a very depressed server.......


    I got that too, it was sooo depressed. It was very funny!


    Quote from "underDAWG"

    If you think that you are going to wheel for awhile, get yourself a HP D30 in Brian's Dad place. Put ARB locker with Warn alloy axles with Warm hub conversion. To wrap it up, get a pair of CTM joints. You should be all set until you need HP D60 down the road. my 2 cents.


    Linyee, I think that's a great idea, I was toying with going to a D44, but I don't want an ARB. Thinking instead about a Detroit in front with the Warn hub conversion (didn't know about Warn shafts), but I can't go the $1,200 to $1,500 at this point.


    I want to return Joe's shaft, so I need a set of new ones. Most likely will go with "SuperAlloy" (Superior Evolution Series) or "Super ChroMoly" - the best price I've seen is about $600 for the assemblies for both sides (inner shaft, U-joint, outer shaft already assembled).


    Anticipating the need to replace the locker, I will probably go with the Aussie locker - it's gotten as good or better reviews as the LockRight and it's a bit cheaper.



    Thanks everyone! :up:

  • Please let me know if you need to borrow a truck, or need help picking anything up. I'm not sure if you are looking at a new front diff or a salvage yard one.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Quote from "Slimer"

    Please let me know if you need to borrow a truck, or need help picking anything up. I'm not sure if you are looking at a new front diff or a salvage yard one.


    Thanks for the offer, but I don't think I'll need help with that. I can probably fit anything I need in the Durango or on the trailer. I know lots of people get great stuff at salvage yards, but I'm not really comfortable with that approach. I'm not looking to replace the whole axle at this point, just fix/upgrade the stuff I broke!


    Quote from "bmf24"

    sounds like some shaft/ joint issues. i wouldn't think the locker would go before a stock joint, but stranger things have happened.


    Chris, the fried locker is in ADDITION to the shaft breakage. I actually broke the inner shaft into two pieces, broke one of the eyes off the end, and broke one pin off the u-joint. I think the only piece that didn't break was the outer shaft. Joe took some good prictures of it, take a look in the "Paragon Results June 19/20" thread in the Trail Rides section.

  • Quote from "BlueJ"

    Most likely will go with "SuperAlloy" (Superior Evolution Series) or "Super ChroMoly" - the best price I've seen is about $600 for the assemblies for both sides (inner shaft, U-joint, outer shaft already assembled).


    Another question... I think the assembies that I've seen us the alloy or chromoly shafts but still use the Spicer 297X u-joints. Is this a weakness in the product? I know the CTM u-joints are better. How hard is it to buy inners and outers separately, buy CTM u-joints, and put them together? Do you need a 10-ton press, or something like that? I'm working with a minimum of toolage here...

  • Andrew,
    I'm not sure if you need locking hubs to get the Warn High Alloy outers or not, but that was what Aaron was running with his old 30 and had good results. yes you can buy them seperately, I would call Aaron and see where he got his. And you do not need a press to put the CTM's in. Aaron and I have done them with a bench vise and even just a hammer.. harder sure, but still doable.


    Don

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