locking diffs

  • ok its a while off, but i'm collecting some ideas. i like being able to toggle then on and off (ARB) but i hear there are a lot of components to fail. how about automatic locking diffs (detroits) how does that affect tire wear, snow/rain driving. what about lim slips? or mechanical lockers (ox).


    what do you guys think. just a little preliminary research...

  • lots use a aussie in the front
    seems to do well


    i havent heard of an arb failing but im sure it possible and has happened
    asleast with that u would have ur own air supply
    there is always the risk of ripping up an airline
    but thats few and far between if u route them right


    limited slips are okay until the clutches were out
    then they are just open diffs


    ian has /had ox lockers and has been happy with them as far as i know


    basically comes down to how much u are willing to spend


    u should of have bought a rubi
    j/k

  • You can get a limited slip without clutches. That's probably what I'd put up in front since I want to maintain decent snow driving performance.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Are the compressers used for ARB's enough to fill up tires efficiencly? Looking ahead to my locking the rear, I've been leaning towards the OX locker. I'd rather not mess w/ the air if I don't have to and I've been hearing they're built really well (now).

  • i was looking into it...and my fear with the ox locker is the cable. If i was doing selectable I would do ARB...but ARB is so out of my budget.


    if i was doing automatic, I would do Aussie. I keep hearing about the automatic in the snow is not good, because it will basically keep yours locked.


    Sean...are you locking your front or your rear?


    (a story)


    When some guy complained that his "friends" aussie wore out or something like that on JeepsUnlimited, Aussie locker came on there and said...please tell your friend to send us your product and we will repalce it no questions asked. They guranteee there stuff, and I like that.



    DrJ has a loc-rite? (or some lunchbox locker named like that).....and I'm sure he can tell you about it.

  • Holy CRAP! You paid that much for your Jeep? :razz:


    I thought ARBs were expensive!

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Quote from "Slimer"

    Holy CRAP! You paid that much for your Jeep? :razz:


    I thought ARBs were expensive!





    My Jeep looked like a new one when I bought it in 2000 (cheapest, lowest miles YJ I could find). Been steadily going down hill ever since. :driving:

  • Here is the locker breakdown:
    ARB
    best selectable locker out there in my opinion. the locker rarley has problems, but some times the control valve or the line will have problems. they are very spendy (about $650-700 each, plus you need an air compressor- $200)
    the ablitiy to turn it off helps with sharp turns off road when used in the front.
    i have arbs front and rear.


    Detroit
    the best auto locker. i hear of them breaking ones in a great while, but its rare. they do very well on the street (2nd to selectable). the price is less than an arb (about $550 ea). much easier to install and maintain


    Lunchbox (Aussie and Lockright)
    Good cheap lockers. they install in about an hour and only cost about $250-300 each. they dont ratchet as well on the street as a Detroit, so they will wear your tires faster. i would not recomend them for the rear axle as they are not nearly as strong as a full locker. great for the front axle.


    Spool or welded diff
    Best offroad traction, makes turning radius and tire wear turn to crap. not recomended, i had welded diffs in my yellow jeep and it sucked in the road and didnt turn for crap. it is cheap, about $15 in electricity and welding wire.


    some good options that are very popular are to run:


    Detroit in the rear and a lunchbox in the front axle.


    Detroit in the rear and an ARB in the front


    or of course Detroits or ARB in both axles

  • I have a Quick-Lock in the rear and a Lock right in the front and happy with both. :doh: Right after i bought mine Richmond Gear owned both. They did changed the on :driving: road driving handling but I got use to it. :wavey:

  • does anyone in the club have a welded rear and daily drive It? If so I'd like to take a test drive please to see how bad It actually is....

    02&#39; F250 SD w/ 285&#39;s and 17x9 1079&#39;s<br />99&#39; XJ w/ 8&quot; and 35&#39;s - GONE!<br /><br />I miss wheeling! :(

  • Although Jump150 didn't daily drive his rig, I think he had a inner-splined tube that joined both axles (doing away with the spider gears). That made the rear a posi. I think it cost him $88.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Quote from "XJ99"

    does anyone in the club have a welded rear and daily drive It? If so I'd like to take a test drive please to see how bad It actually is....


    my yellow jeep was. drove like crap. trurning radius was about the same as my superduty, and it loosened the u-bolts all the time. it caused alot of problems.

  • Quote from "Slimer"

    Although Jump150 didn't daily drive his rig, I think he had a inner-splined tube that joined both axles (doing away with the spider gears). That made the rear a posi. I think it cost him $88.


    thats not what a posi is. Don had full spool. you can find them in summitt. its about as simple as a carrier gets.
    basicly the same thing as a welded diff.

  • i was reading and didn't feel like going back to quote the question - the air compressor that you get with the ARBs is amazing, it will put 35" tires from 8PSI to 35PSI within 30 seconds. So if you were wanting to use air tools, then yes, it will be fine. Sean - I would reccomend going with teh ARB. Do it right, take your time, save your money and get them. I've done a lot of reading on lockers and it just seems that the ARB is the most full proof and effective locking system (plus you can turn it off, as if they weren't there... and you get onboard air!). I'm about 75% to budget to get the lockers done on my Jeep, so that'll be a Summer project (i'm probably goign to have hollyoak do it for me, i dont' have the time to learn how to do it right now.)

  • The arb compressor cannot keep up with air tools, hell my york with a 3 gallon tank can barely keep up with air tools. The arb compressor is very small and should only be considered useable to power the arb solenoinds or other air solenoids like a sway-loc

  • ...though if you get a high-volume air system (York-based, converted A/C, Powertank), you can use that to run your ARBs instead of installing an additional ARB compressor.

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