Posts by Chief57

    Chris, I'm not surprised one bit that you'd know about the jerry can gaskets on Amazon! You're like a walking encyclopedia. Thanks very much -- I will order.


    Jeremy, you'll be glad to know that I did, indeed, cut small drain holes in the inner tube -- which does not have any white lettering, by he way. So, hopefully I'm good with rainwater drainage. I actually would rather install a white light behind the star, rather than a red one. Am assuming that it doesn't have to be red by law. I'll need to brush up on the wiring harness color codes so I'll know just which wire to tap into for the running lights.

    At yesterday's Jeeps for Joy a couple of folks mentioned that I might be overdue for an update on this trailer build thread. So, here ya go....



    Here's a view from the rear corner. I painted the removable tailgate panel to match my Wrangler. Did the same with the fenders. I like the way the star turned out. It "floats" about an inch away from the tailgate panel. A ton of work went into mounting that star, but I think it was worth it. Now, I'm thinking about putting a small 12V light behind the star and tying it into the trailer's brake lights. The tailgate chain is protected and silenced using a 26" bicycle inner tube. The chain and the anchor bolts are removable. Lastly, I plug welded those handy tie-downs on each rib of the trailer -- a total of 10 of them.




    Both the gas and water jerry cans will ride in special racks on the sides of the trailer. I noticed the rubber seal on the spout of this metal, gas jerry can is decomposing. Does anyone know where I can get new seals? Are those seals really that important?


    Edit

    As many of you know, I'm building an offroad/expedition type trailer. I thought it might be cool to have the trailer's wheels and tires match those on my 1998 TJ. They're alloy (not painted)15" Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels with the 5x4.5 lug spacing. I think the backspacing needs to be fairly small. The trailer wheels don't have to be a 100 percent match with the Jeep -- they could be slightly shorter and narrower and still achieve the desired effect.

    I've been mulling over replacing my 1998 TJ's front seat belts -- the latches are constantly sticking and are hard to release. I'm somewhat interested in this Corbeau model:


    https://www.quadratec.com/products/24248_3100.htm


    Quadratec informs me that 1) this is a universal seat belt that fits both the driver side and passenger side, and 2) there is no electrical connection (unlike the OEM version) on this model. Should I be concerned about either of these things? Can someone give me a review of this model? If not this one, what's my best "bang for my buck" when it comes to replacing OEM TJ seatbelts?

    Is the removable panel for accommodating longer items in the trailer?

    No, not really. I just wanted to be able to be able to remove it for repair or to change the look/theme. If I did carry something longer than the trailer bed, I guess I might try lowering the tailgate. Or, as I mentioned before, it may be possible to remove the tailgate altogether.


    On a related note, I'm having trouble finding a metal 5-point star that's in the 6-9 inch size.

    A trailer build update......


    I fabricated a tailgate using 1x3 tubing for the frame and sheet metal for the "skin." The 1x3 was chosen in order to match the 1x3 frame at the rear of the trailer...a nod to the aesthetics of the trailer. The skin (blue in the picture) is removable -- an extra PITA for me, but that's the way I wanted it. The three hinges are welded on, but I have in mind that I can knock out the existing pins and replace them with a single long rod. This would help make the tailgate removable.


    The sheet metal is held in place with 12 flat head screws, thanks to some threads I created with a tap and die set on the frame.


    I created two matching latches (one on each side) using some angle iron I already had laying around. They aren't fancy, I admit, but they are simple and effective. Here are two pics with a latch open and closed.



    Here's the tailgate in the open position (held up by a piece of angle iron). I next need to turn my attention to chains or cables. I can't make it just like a pickup truck, because with the trailer there's no offset where the cables can be hidden. So, I am wrestling with how to do this, as I want to blend function and aesthetics if possible. Also, I may use a regular chain, but include an O-link that will aid in making the tailgate removable. Suggestions?


    The silver item on the passenger side rear of the trailer frame is, of course, a bottle opener. I knew that this trailer would never past muster with the DEJA crowd unless I added this item! Done!!

    Jerry, again I've enjoyed following your western adventure on Facebook. You may have mentioned it before and I just didn't catch it, but what did you use to take your pictures? And did you use something other than an unlimited data cellular plan to upload pictures from your remote locations? Thanks.

    I called Metal Liquidators and spoke with someone who seemed to really know the inventory, so I'm confident that they don't have what I want. I may swing by Fastenal in Dover for a look, but they are pretty expensive.


    Last night I was playing around with some angle iron trying to come up with a suitable home-made solution. I may have come up with something. Even though I'd really like the polished look of a purchased latch, there is something to be said for a home-made latch for a home-made trailer.....plus I already own the angle iron. So, I'm still mulling things over....

    Have created a tailgate for the trailer and welded it to the frame via three hinges. Now, I'm in search of latches. I think I've settled on this style (below). The key criteria are: stainless, lockable and concealed (meaning that the "keeper" is hidden, which just makes for a cleaner look). The one in the image is made by Southco, which can be purchased from outfits in Kansas and Pennsylvania. Question: Can anyone point me to a retailer in Delaware that would sell this or something very similar? I'd like to be able to hold it in my hands before purchasing. (Hint: Eastern Marine and Billy Warren & Son do not carry anything similar.) I need a quick response please, so feel free to text me at 302-270-4884. Am overdue in posting pics of the trailer build, so I'll try to remedy that soon. Thanks.


    Folks, a quick followup....


    With the help of quadna's compression tool, I was able to slip the 3/4" spacer into place. Done! Now, to be clear, I had a 3/4" lean and then I installed a 3/4" spacer. And after all that......I still have 1/4" lean to PS. The math doesn't work!! Who knew that to solve a 3/4" lean I'd need a 1" spacer. Argh! But, I'm fairy happy. If you won't tell, neither will I. And now I can check using a coil spring compression tool off my bucket list.


    BTW, I used a ratchet/socket on one compressor, but I had to use a combo wrench on the other. So, it did take a while to get it done. I have no idea how you guys use an impact gun on these things.

    Chris, thanks a bunch. Not sure how quickly you'll see this post, but I'll stop by this afternoon if that's convenient for you. I'll give you a text to let you know I"m coming....maybe by 3:00 or so? ...I think I still have your cell number. JIm

    I've just ordered a 3/4" Rubicon Express coil spacer for my 98 TJ to help remedy the passenger side lean. I want to install it on my rear PS coil. I'm seeing on videos and forums that people use ratchet straps to compress coil springs, but I also see that there's a proper tool for that job. Does anyone (Dover area is best) have a coil compression tool I can borrow for a day? (I don't need it right now....the spacer won't arrive for a few days.) Thanks.


    If anyone has a tip or trick for this job to make it go easier, please chime in.