Posts by Slimer

If you let it go completely drained it can take a good while to get it back to life. Leaving it overnight should do it.

I remember the steering wheel only being able to be indexed one way. How does the horn button move in relation to the steering wheel? Doesn't the steering wheel index on the steering shaft in one position only?

Quote from "wanderlust"

I've been collecting miscellaneous stuff for close to a year to do this.

Read as, "I have to make room for all the baby stuff so...."

OH MY GOD!

Now that Selena is busy with the baby he's going WILD!

I wish you guys would get normal jobs so I could attend some of these wrench fests.

You should have said something. I have my old steering wheel sitting in my garage.

You need to adjust the length of your drag link (bar that goes from the steering knuckle to the pitman arm). It's not too hard to do. Soak it down with penetrating oil and a vice helps.

If transmission lines use high pressure (like brake lines) then regular compression fittings will blow apart. You could probably use brake line connectors and double flare the ends like brake lines. Of course the best thing would be to run all new line. Any connection is a potential leak or weak spot and you want to minimize them.

I got a T150 three speed that should hold up to the 304. The 304's came with T150s from the factory.

The only way to knock the weld down is to grind it off, or use a hand file. Depending on the metal, the hand file could take a while.

I wouldn't worry about them not looking "perfect". They are made to be bashed up against the rocks. Wait until you see what the rocks will do to the undesides.

I usually just cut the U-bolts. A bit more expensive but I was typically changing springs or rears anyway. I'll be doing that again this summer, hopefully.

Keep in mind the strength of the rest of your drive train. You might get to the point where you will be pushing the tranny a bit on the torque side.

I'm pretty sure a '79 needs a cat. I never liked running the pipe in front of the oil pan drop section because it makes it harder to remove the oil pan. I guess it does help heat the oil up in the winter time though.

Quote from "OrangeCrush"

I did something similar this weekend with a old ammo box which I painted semi-gloss black. Bolted it in and ran all the wires through rubber grommets at the bottom.

Drilling the holes in the bottom negate the water proofing, don't they?

Be sure to goop up the holes and wires inside and out with RTV. Especially before you drive your Jeep into the Chesapeake Bay again.

We might have to start paying her for a weather forecast now that she has a degree.

BUT ONLY IF SHE FORECASTS BETTER WEATHER!

Hey Loki, how's this swap coming?

I think some of the cam companies put together a performance package for the 304. I think it was Crane or Comp.

Couldn't you balance the exhaust pressures by running a tubing line from one side to the other? You'd have to buy two catalytic converters anyway and they typically have a port for a smog pump to hook up to. Instead of hooking it up to the smog pump (provided your Jeep doesn't require one) you could hook the cats up to each other. That should balance out the exhaust pressures on either side of the engine shouldn't it?

Looks good. You can't even tell there's a hole there.

Got to love wrenching with your significant other.

How hard would it be to cut the bad part of the frame out and weld a new piece in? Maybe you could even stretch the frame a few inches.

That's the way to go! I hate those 4 peice set ups.

I'm sure it's doable. I've seen dual set ups before. Can't you just run them straight back?

CJ's and early Scouts use a 1 1/8". They typically have to be put on super tight.