Posts by TheMistaken

  • Cory's P/C in Dover

    Agreed. Cory is a badass guy to work with. Super reasonable.


    His company name is actually Hard Color.


    Will give a club discount if you tell him you are from Delaware Jeep.

  • New Project - D60's and Other Stuff

    I agree with you, but as I said, all you need to do is grind out that center hub hole lip thing that the H2 wheels have going on and it is still centered and even. As long as you don't act like a mongaloid with the damn things, it turns out fine. Mine balanced very nicely with the least amount of weight I have ever had on a mud terrain type tire. I have 6oz as the heaviest weight. To each their own.

  • New Project - D60's and Other Stuff

    How is it a shortcut when they work just fine, just b/c I didn't go to a machine shop? Grind out to the same point all of the way around and it works fine (there is a real nice lip used to gauge this), use them as lug-centric and even if you cut out the center with a hacksaw, they would be fine. No need to waste money if you do not have to. can even finish and polish the center when done if you'd like, would never know the difference.

  • New Project - D60's and Other Stuff

    quit talking about it and just start doing. hahaha Made some changes to your parts. Taking the rear to either get bored or use 70 spindles as said. Will get it all together as soon as Brian starts ordering the parts.


  • Clayton long arm kit

    As stated, stock skid is able to be run after being notched, but it does make it a bit weaker. Would be fine as long as you do not beat on it.


    Clayton stuff is nice, I beat the fuck out of mine pretty regularly. I bent a johnny joint, and that has been in.


    Welded tube-sert vs threaded tube.... Its all a personal preference as long as the threads are cut correctly into a tube. A welded tube-sert is a very structurally sound way to run it.


    Welding it all on is not hard, but it should be done by a capable welder. A lot of stress is put through the mounts and if done imporoperly, it could end very badly. Make sure who you have weld it up does it right.


    Shock relocation - well worth the money for some lower shock mounts and some F-250 shock towers. Easy and you gain a lot of handling from it. As far as "shaving" an 8.8 housing to run a sway bar, thats all sort of BS. I had mine with nothing out out of it and ran a stock sway bar on it with no issues. And I am kind of lost with you saying that your brackets ned to be redone to run a long arm... What brackets are those? You get rid of brackets with the clayton kit, but I don't understand where having to redo some brackets to work with your short arm turns into going to a long arm. But to each their own. Just sounds like to me that someone fucked up the original brackets.


    Don't make any of it harder than it needs to be. Be very particular with who you hav welding it all on. Make sure that they know that the mounts are not universal and they belong in certain spots and need to be on the correct side of the vehicle.