slip yoke eliminator ???

  • hey ive been reading up on when you do a 4'' lift and how your suppose to do a slip yoke eliminator kit on it so you dont have vibrations and your breaking. so im just wondering is that really true and if so should i get it??

  • What type of Jeep do you have? Odds are pretty good that if it's A SWB Jeep you'd need an SYE + CV driveshaft. You'd also need either degree shims for leaf springs or adjustable upper control arms if it's a coil sprung Jeep.


    A bandaid fix might be a transfer case drop kit...but you're just losing some of that precious ground clearance you've gained with the 4" lift.

  • Short Wheel Base. Longer wheel bases are more forgiving since the driveline angles aren't as severe. The shims will allow you to rotate the axle's pinion toward the transfer case output shaft. They are tapered and sandwich between the springs and the axle. Google them and you'll see what I mean.

  • ooo ok thanks for the input guys cuz moneys real tight right now and so i guess ill just wait on gettin the SYE after i get everythin else bought like the tires lol

  • To be honest your new tires aren't going to do you much good when the lower joint on your ds goes out and leaves you stranded on the side of the road. Not to scare you, but its not if the rear ds joint will go bad, but when even with a t-case drop. IMHO, you are better off getting the SYE and CV shaft first or just save up some more $ to do it right the first time.

    My $.02,
    Aaron


  • The shims will allow you to rotate the axle's pinion toward the transfer case output shaft. They are tapered and sandwich between the springs and the axle. Google them and you'll see what I mean.


    There's a misconception with that in my opinion.


    Without a double cardan joint, the TC output and pinion should be on pretty much the same plane.


    Only when you have a DC (CV) drive shaft should the pinion be pointed toward the TC.




    And just because you aren't shaking like a leaf going down the road doesn't mean that things aren't running out of phase and destroying the u-joints.

  • so with that said keith, since it seems you know more on the supject should i get the SYE and CV drive shaft or just leave it how it is???


  • so with that said keith, since it seems you know more on the supject should i get the SYE and CV drive shaft or just leave it how it is???


    You have to make that decision. Is it a daily driver?


    With most YJ's and TJ's when you hit/pass the 3.5" lift stage you really need a SYE and CV drive shaft.


    It's more a matter of physics than anything else.


    You might be able to band-aid it with a TC drop, you might not.


    Like Aaron said, it's not really a question of "if" but "when".


    And worse case scenario when the u-joint fails you could destroy the TC also. It has happened to others here.


    It comes down to what you feel comfortable with and what your wallet can handle.


    Lifting Jeeps correctly costs more than just doing what's necessary to fit the tires under it.

  • well this sucks....lol, and yes it is my daily driving car and im putting 4 inches on it. but do you know anywhere that sells the SYE and cv driveshaft for cheap??

  • And I'm not trying to bum you out.


    You might be one of the lucky few that has no problems, like said above all Jeeps tend to be a little different.


    Maybe you should install the lift, see how it is.


    If you have major vibes, install the TC drop and see how it is.


    If it's still bad then you can make the call on the SYE and CV.

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