No-Start Issue

  • So I'm stranded on the side of the road at the moment. The Jeep just shut off. I have flashers, headlights and the stereo and the dash clock that work but nothing else. When I turn the key nothing. The gauges don't even flare up. Having it towed to my house. Any suggestions on the problem?

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

    Edited once, last by Kuntryboy816 ().

  • check all the fuses, relays, etc? auto or manual? does the starter click or literally nothing?

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

    Edited once, last by whatevah ().

  • I checked ground from battery, starter wires, connections at alt and dizzy, wire splices at ICM, coil cap connections... All good. To frustrated right now so ill check the fuses and relays tomorrow.


    Edit- stereo is wired directly to battery and no thru ign, so that is why it still worx. Anything wired thru the ignition would not work. I have lights that plug into cig lighter and they didn't work. Guessing something to do with key/ign in the column. Just a unedumicated guess...

  • 89 YJ would have the GM style ignition switch mounted near the base of the steering column (on the column) under the dash. I would go buy a new one ($12), don't dismount your old one, just unplug it, plug the new one in and use a small screwdriver in the little hole to operate the switch. If everything works, replace your switch. If Im wrong you can put it back in the box and return it.
    Ive see alot of vehicles do very similar things that all had that GM style ignition switch. It's quick and cheap to check.
    http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/1124954/374/


  • that sucks hope it something simple



    Yeah when I was leaving out of K. Square after meeting up with you it hesitated/stumbled a bit going up the hill by the highschool. Thought maybe it was just the incline being that it's a carbed engine and all. Had no other issue all the way home. Glad it was only 6 miles from my house and not in K. Square! Looks like we've both been pretty lucky the last couple of days in that regard. I knew I shouldn't have said anything about being ready to start hitting the trails. :rolleyes:

    Thanks for the info Aaron and Scramblejim. I hope it's the switch and not the ICM as it's brand new. I had to replace the ICM when I did the Nutter bypass about 3 months ago and the old one crapped out. I'll pick up an ign switch on the way home after work and give it a try.

    Last night, I was at the intersection of Churchmans and 273... I pulled thru the light making a left and it stumbled once then died. Like I said, it had headlights/flashers, the stereo and amp worked but when I turned the key fwd the gauges didn't move and the engine/starter did nothing. Optima red top is less than 2 years old and as I had acc I don't think that's the issue. I wiggled and tugged on most of the electrical components and nothing seemed loose.

    MAN I LOVE OWNING A JEEP!! :spinrhead: Thanks also to Jerry and Geoff for the offer to rescue me!

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • Ok so I've picked up the switch and hooked up the 2 connections. Slid the pc inside both ways and nothing is happening. Am I doing something wrong? Does the switch need to be grounded?

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • Sounds like your a cell in your battery is shot. You can get power to operate everything but not enough cold cranking amps to turn the starter.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

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    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

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    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
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  • Sorry, I dont know what the relays are off the top of my head. I really thought that the ignition switch was going to be a solid. Im assuming that when you say "nothing happened" you moved the ignition switch to the accessory and run detents(Accessory, lock, off, run, start), and none of the circuits that should have gotten power did. (blower motor, gauges in 'run' position) Did you force it into the crank position? That part is spring loaded and takes a little bit of effort when your doing this with a screwdriver in your hand.
    If none of that works and you now have a known good igniton switch, this should be relatively easy. I couldnt find the wiring diagrams easily tonight, but one wire on that ignition switch should be hot at all times supplied from the battery. My guess is that it is the big red one. You should have battery voltage there. In "crank" you should have battery voltage to the big yellow wire if I remember correctly. I hope that helps get you going in the right direction. A test light, or even better, a Volt-meter, is going to be your best friend on this.
    It doesnt sound like a battery problem if your headlights work, your heater blower should work too. The headlights are not powered through the ignition switch, the blower motor is. The blower motor helps when troubleshooting this because its noisy enough that you will hear it from wherever you are working on the power supply circuit-under the hood or under the dash.

  • I'm pretty sure that I was pushing it as far fwd as it would go. I can slide the screwdriver into the slot and clean thru the other side. When I pushed it fwd I was pushing from both sides of the switch. I'll double check and make sure I'm cranking it all the way fwd. I'll try it with the blower motor on as well and see what I get but I know the gauges didn't fire up even with the new switch.

    I have the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual so I'll grab the voltmeter and check for power if that doesn't work. I really hope the old switch is good bc it looks to be a major PIA to get the old one out and the new one in. The switch is on top of the column and pretty much everything is in the way of getting to it.

    I also checked all of the fuses in the box and they were all good. The only one I couldn't visually inspect is a silverish metal one in the bottom center of the box. It looked like it was labeled for the taillights so I didn't mess with it.

    I'm going to ask this anyways even though logically it doesn't sound quite right... could the alternator, starter or ICM be the culprit here? Reason that any of those doesn't sound right is the gauge issue. If I'm not getting power to the gauges when I turn the key then that would mean I'm not completing any of the circuits from the battery thru the ignition. From my very limited knowledge the circuit has to be completed at the ignition to send a signal to the starter and ICM to fire the engine over. The alternator only runs off the belt when the engine is running sending charge to the battery and spark to the plugs. Correct or am I off base?

    I do know that every once in a while the teeth on the starter don't quite mesh with the flywheel and I get this gawdawful grinding noise. If it does this, I stop until I hear the starter stop turning and then try again. But with that I can hear the starter motor whirring. With this issue nothing... hence pointing more towards the ignition problem. I also checked yesterday that when I turn the key to Start the actuator rod is movig fwd. I'll check to see if maybe I just wasn't pushing the switch fwd enough. Like you said, I thought the switch would've been the issue. Thanks for the direction. I'll update what I find after I get home from work.

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

    Edited once, last by Kuntryboy816 ().

  • I am pretty sure you a a starter selinoid on the fire wall. If that went or the trip wire that activates it went bad it will cause your symptoms. Take a meter or a 12v light tester and trace the cuircut.



    Aaron

  • If i remember right....your symptoms are that nothing inside the jeep works unless it is directly wired to the battery. Working off a foggy memory here since it's been a while since i messed with a yj, but if memory serves, there is a point where the harness goes through the firewall that meets a large junction block. They greased the hell out of the connections in this junction block to stop corrosion but it didn't always work, if the connections in the block are corroded it can cause the issue your having.
    My next guess would be to look for loose or corroded grounds.
    Just talked to the 'old-timer' here in the shop that was wrenching on those when they were new and has the memory of an elephant. The yj did have a problem at the bulkhead connector, 1 was corrosion of the terminals and 2 was the starter wire getting hot and melting in the connector and shorting to other wires. The bulkhead connector is on the drivers side of the firewall, very easily accessible. You can fairly easily seperate it and check the connections.

    If you need wrenching advice feel free to ask! Others experience can be a good way to save time and money!

    Edited once, last by Karvor ().

  • Aaron is this pc you we're talking about? It's on the firewall just below the battery. The main pos cable runs down and splits to this and the starter...

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • I pulled on the individual wires at the bulkhead connector but everything felt tight. Didn't know how to separate it so I did t take it apart. I'm not sure if the whole piece comes off as one or if the 2 individual sides come out independently... So frustrating!

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

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