D-30 axles

I feel ya. You know how I've been going through these things like crazy.

I recently picked up two complete D30s from part-outs, just so I could pull the axle-shaft assemblies as trail spares.

These should last me at least a few wheeling trips before I need to renew my search for more. :o

I'm no Rocket surgeon, but wouldn't life be far easier if you swapped out the axle snapper D30 and dropped in something a wee bit more stout?

Quote from deadfeat

I'm no Rocket surgeon, but wouldn't life be far easier if you swapped out the axle snapper D30 and dropped in something a wee bit more stout?

I'm not sure if this is directed to Randy, or me, or both.

For me, the simple answer is that I would certainly like to, and I will do so when I stumble upon an opportunity, or - as sometimes is the case - when an opportunity finds me. I wish it were so easy as dropping one in.

The more detailed answer is that - as with so many upgrades - it's mostly a matter of $$$. My D30:

[li]regeared with 4.56s[/li]
[li]locked with an ARB[/li]
[li]RuffStuff diff cover[/li]
[li]welded-on LCA skids[/li]
[li]tie-rod flip[/li]
[li]u-bolt pinion yoke[/li]
[li]upgraded weld-on track-bar bracket[/li]
[li]probably more that I can't recall at the moment[/li]

It would make no sense to me to upgrade to a stronger axle without also upgrading it to at least the build specs I already have, and probably more. Plus, some or all of the steering and suspension would need to be changed to some extent.

So yeah, it's about the $$$. A lot of $$$.

It was directed to both I was with Randy when he snapped a axle on Crawlers Ridge.

You could go with beefier shafts, but depending on your driving style something else might break.

And again, directed to both.

Quote from keith_c

You could go with beefier shafts, but depending on your driving style something else might break.

Quite true. With the ARB in there, I definitely prefer that anything else be the weak link in the axle.

Maybe just a better quality shaft like cromo alloy and a good u joint.

Randy, I think I have one of those disconnect axles for you. If I can find it I'll bring it to the post-holiday party.

I'm also looking for a passenger side one-piece axle for a trail spare.

Quote from astape

Maybe just a better quality shaft like cromo alloy and a good u joint.

That's what I meant.

Quote from shorebird

A pair of alloy axles is around $1300.00

That must be for the gold plated ones.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52400_503_07.htm

Even cheaper

http://completeoffroad.com/i-6…icer-u-joints-w24160.html

I rode around for a long time with a front lock right with no disconnect Randy. You hardly noticed it. I think
Spedlys link Is probably well worth it considering how much time you spend replacing the axle shafts and all long distance trips you take it on.

Quote from Spedly

Even cheaper

http://completeoffroad.com/i-6…icer-u-joints-w24160.html

Those are 30 spline.

Quote from keith_c

That must be for the gold plated ones.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52400_503_07.htm

He is almost certainly talking about these: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52400_1904_07.htm

Quote from shorebird

I'm pretty sure I'm breaking u joints first then taking out the ears on the axles.

Exactly what happens with me. Except for one time when I twisted the splines, I have never actually broken an axle shaft without it being a failed u-joint damaging the shaft ears.

Quote from astape

Maybe just a better quality shaft like cromo alloy and a good u joint.

I don't see chromoly as a great option. Even with chromoly axles at $500 - $800 per set, the u-joint is what fails. I'll call it a day and go home before I would swap u-joints on the trail, so with a broken u-joint on a chromoly shaft, I would swap it out for the OEM inner/outer shaft assembly that I always carry.

Even though the chromoly shafts carry a lifetime warranty, when the u-joint fails, more often than not the shaft ears are damaged. Even if the axle company covers shipping one-way, by the time you've shipped the damaged shaft back to them and purchased a new u-joint, you could grab another OEM inner/outer from a u-pull-it or someone's part-out for 40 or 50 bucks. And try warrantying out a chromoly shaft more than once or twice and see if you don't get the " Technically, it wasn't the shaft that failed, that was incidental damage from the failed u-joint" response.

Quote from altierior

I don't see chromoly as a great option. Even with chromoly axles at $500 - $800 per set, the u-joint is what fails. I'll call it a day and go home before I would swap u-joints on the trail, so with a broken u-joint on a chromoly shaft, I would swap it out for the OEM inner/outer shaft assembly that I always carry.

Even though the chromoly shafts carry a lifetime warranty, when the u-joint fails, more often than not the shaft ears are damaged. Even if the axle company covers shipping one-way, by the time you've shipped the damaged shaft back to them and purchased a new u-joint, you could grab another OEM inner/outer from a u-pull-it or someone's part-out for 40 or 50 bucks. And try warrantying out a chromoly shaft more than once or twice and see if you don't get the " Technically, it wasn't the shaft that failed, that was incidental damage from the failed u-joint" response.

I disagree. It sounds like Alloy's would be a good option for you guys. When I used to run a D30, I would just warranty them when they broke. Not convenient but it was free and they definitely held up to more abuse than a stock axle. From the sounds of it, you are breaking way more than you would if you'd just invest in a good axle shaft.

Quote from KnoxRents

I disagree. It sounds like Alloy's would be a good option for you guys. When I used to run a D30, I would just warranty them when they broke. Not convenient but it was free and they definitely held up to more abuse than a stock axle. From the sounds of it, you are breaking way more than you would if you'd just invest in a good axle shaft.

Another question, are you guys running greasable u-joints?

I know it's an ongoing debate, but IMO a solid cross will be stronger than a hollow one.

And why does the u-joint fail? Is it because the bore in the ear flexes enough to allow the cap to walk out?

The ears on the alloy shafts are way beefier than the stock ones.