im sorry... i didn't mean to sound rude. I'll probably be cutting the body lift in half... and I did rotate the tires. I was informed that my shocks went bad and not having sway bars is definately a huge factor in this wobble. So i'll keep everyone posted.
jeff
Ok so here's waht i've done.
New Shocks
New Coils
Adjustable Track Bar
New Tie Rod
New Steering Stabilizer
Torqued all bolts and checked bushings
Put Sway Bars back on
Alignment
Tire balance
And still have the problem. It's no where near as bad. If you're going about 35-45 it won't do it until you hit a bump, then it's just as bad as it used to be. This just leads me to believe I need a Drop Pitman Arm. The only reason I haven't put one on is because of how everyone says they are so bad and cause "bump steer", which seems to be the exact problem I have. Does this sound like it could be the problem?
Do you have adjustable upper control arms on the front? 6" of lift and short arms will make for a horrible castor angle with stock upper control arms.
Good call.. No I dont. Just someting else to add to my projects. Howveer, I have pulled the front drive shaft (actually it's off right now) and it still happens. so shouldn't that dismiss that as a problem?
No that woudl be pinion angle, castor is the angle of the knuckles in relation to a perpendicular line drawn through the hub. So with short arms you change the castor when you use stock upper control arms.
Quote from "ChiChuM"i have 4" coils, 2" bl and 1.5" spacers. I want 6" suspension, i'm going to do it no matter what anyone says. So i'll figure this out on way or the other. (and i do also have a winch, which is why i got the spacers.)
Maybe if you listed you wouldnt have these problems, like the 10" rims for instance...
You do realize most of us are now running or want to run 10" wheels? THey work a whole lot better than you could imagine
Quote from "Meeper"Maybe if you listed you wouldnt have these problems, like the 10" rims for instance...
I don't understand what you are trying to suggest. at all. type english
Quote from "jeepartie"I don't understand what you are trying to suggest. at all. type english
You dont have to, jeff knows what i meen... 
I got rid of the spacers. I realized that they were causing to much sway in the coils. That is why I have new 6" coils with no spacers. You are telling me that I shouldn't have done it, so in other words you are suggesting that no one should get more than 4" suspension and 2" body? and even that is too much? I like my Jeep how it is, I like that i have 8" of lift and I will take the time to figure out what it is. I'm sorry some of you don't agree with what I did and it's your own personal opinion, but my preference is to have it lifted that much, and I'll work on it until it's perfect. Lots of people like to make their jeep bigger, I'm just doing waht I like. So please drop your cases, it has no effect on me nor will I just decide that I no longer want it lifted because you say I should have listened. So if we can stay on the subject of this post, which is determining what could cause the wobble, that would be appreciated.
are you still running the factory steering, or have you upgraded?
have you replaced the control arms w/ aftermarket upgrades?
what trackbar did you use?
what size tires/rims?
Jeff, i had some of the same issues when i want to 4.5" of lift on a short arm, then i went to long arms and the issues totally vanished, just suggestion. 6" short arm has got to be very unstable, especially if you do not have longer front arms...
Did you figure this out yet?
Steering:
new tie rod and ends
new stabilizer
Trackbar: JKS adjustable
Control arms: All lowers are after market, rear uppers are adj for the sye but the front uppers are still stock, which turtle has already pointed out
Tires/Wheels: BFG 35x12.5r15 M/T on 15x10 AR23s
------------------------
Can someone explain the long arm to me. Do the mounts on the frame have to be welded or do they bolt on? Is all that I'll need is the control arms? Should everything else that I have be sufficient? Also, who is a decent / low end company. I'm very budgeted after all of this and I won't be able to afford the best.
double check your toe in. it should be no more than 1/16" to 1/8" toed in. most shops do not know how to set the alignment for a lifted jeep. just had a customer w/ a similar problem that had it professionally aligned twice and still had the symptoms, and he was 3/4" toe in. set it to 1/8 and the wobble went away.
With long arms you need to cut away the factory mounts and weld on new ones closer to the center skid plate of your jeep. The RE is bolt on, clayton full weld on i believe, Tera is weld and bolt on, i find many customers go with RE because of the good word about them, if your jeep is an 03 or newer try Blackrubi as he is selling the complete kit with skid...
i dont feel like i can be accurate to an 8th of an inch when measuring the toe in - they use machines when the do it don't they?
It can be done very easily. They do use machines for it but a tape measure has never failed me.
3/32... that is what they set it to. I required them to give me the report to se what they did and that's waht we're at. so that's right in the ballpark of what it should be.
Check the tire balancing, try this link
http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-TireBalance-12803.pdf
Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!
