Posts by Diablo

Quote from Keith_C

Just curious.

Did you send the DE tag with it?

Was your insurance still covering it for their trip home.

Just wondering how that works.

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I would hope not. Once the sale was final, it should have been dropped from the PO's insurance and the couple should have called and added it to their insurance. I do believe you can get temp tags at the DMV as well...

I'm going to pick up a Jeep on Tuesday. Already added it to our insurance, switched the title to NJ, and got plates and registration for it.

Got it Wayne. I'll give you a call as soon as I can. I'm really busy this weekend so it may not be until Monday or Tuesday.

Quote from Daddanelena

Think your nice guy too Sal lol,
i do work in body shop live far from you all,would paint tho?
Wayne

Wayne, send me a PM about it and we'll talk.

I am the owner, but I will not be driving it. Long story.

Technically it's not my vehicle, so no I really don't care. Also, it's not the entire vehicle, so no I really don't care. The Jeep was cheap - it doesn't need an expensive paint job.

Yeah, I don't really care about quality. Just wants something that matches more than primer. I would do it myself if I could find cans of paint that are factory color.

It's a 99 WJ - 4.0 with 242 tcase. Got it for a steal and a half.

The guy put stuff from an 04 Freedom edition on it which is why it is two different colors. He started prepping for paint and never finished. Anyone know where I can get it painted for a decent price? Quality doesn't matter. I was thinking Maaco...

I gave up on it. I'm going to have to take it to a shop when I get time.

Hey guys and girls. I've been trying to get my shift knob off (NV3550). I popped the cap off and removed the lock nut that is on the inside. I noticed it was a little rusty so I sprayed it with PB blaster overnight. It will not budge at all to screw off. I cut off most of the rubber that is covering it so that I could get vice grips on it, but they didn't work either.


Any other ideas?

I'm thinking yes as well.

I'm not sure what he's including for the $450, but the bellhousing you can just use from the AX15 if that's not included. Some people also don't include shifters, but you can install a short throw in its place. That's assuming it's just the transmission and not the entire assembly. Either way it's a good deal.

I did this swap. I don't know exactly what went wrong during mine, but it was not a direct swap. From what I understand the bellhousings may be a different size. Check that before you swap them because if they are I think you can just take the bellhousing from the AX15 and put it onto the NV3550. I did not do this, and once the NV3550 was installed the rear driveshaft would not go back in. It was a few inches too short. I ended up doing an SYE with a different shaft. If you already have an SYE then you should be fine to throw the NV3550 in as is.

I paid $650 for mine with 58,000 miles on it as well as the NP231 still attached to it. It came complete with the shifter and clutch and everything.

So that could make the JKS arms worth the $140 more. Hm!

Thanks guys. I'll get them to order the standard adjustable arms in for me.

So, BDS flex arms or BDS standard adjustable arms?

Which should last me longer joint/bushing wise?

Quote from Keith_C

I've been very happy with their control arms and track bars, (and springs).

No offense meant. I'm pretty sure most people have been pretty happy with their stuff, but some of the things I've seen and experienced myself with their products turned me off to them quite a bit.

I am not a big fan of RE other than their springs. I hope when they restructure or whatever they are doing their quality improves.

Quote from clendaniel

FWIW if you do end up with a cartridge style joint go with an adjustable style like the ballistic joint...then when they do get loose you can retighten/lube and are good to go. The johnny joints fit together and use a circlip to hold the assembly in place. Being non-adjustable once the bushing wears and/or collapses some you have to replace rather than tighten it to take up the slack.

I can say that I wore out a hell of alot more 'factory' rubber bushings on my Clayton setup than I did Johnny Joints. In the 5yrs I ran it I replaced the rubber bushings 3 times and only ever had to rebuild 2 of the johnnies (the smaller front units)

--Ian

Ian, thanks for the info. Does Ballistic Fab make the ballistic joint you speak of?

I was looking at the JKS arms as well as Currie's arms, but Currie's had the Johnny joints.

Should I go with JKS or BDS? Are the JKS arms worth an extra $140?

Thanks Bill. I may just go with the BDS arms then. He quoted me a price cheaper than retail on those and he seemed to think they would be best for my Jeep. I just wanted a few other opinions before I put an arm on there that only lasts me another 8,000 miles.

Quote from Keith_C

Same thing, Johnny Joint is Currie's trademark name for their cartridge joints.

Thanks Keith.

As far as mostly street driving, would I be better off just using arms that utilize regular bushings on each end? Or should I go with an arm that has a Johnny joint? Price isn't an issue, I just want something that will last. The Daystar arms have only been on my Jeep for about 8,000 miles if that. This Jeep is by far not a daily driver.