Also, what is a cartridge joint? I know what a Johnny Joint is.
Posts by Diablo
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My thoughts:Johnny or cartridge type joints should last a fairly long time.
If you like to play in the mud I would stick with rubber bushings.
If your Jeep is super flexy and you wheel a lot, the cartridge joints may actually last longer than arms with just rubber bushings as the arm is more free to rotate.
John mentioned heim joints, I wouldn't use a heim joint on any part of a Jeep that is driven on the street.
What exactly is wrong with your Daystar arms ? If the bushings are shot, they can be replaced.
I don't have time to wheel/don't know where to wheel around here so the Jeep is streeted right now. They said that the threads are messed up and they are pulling in and out of themselves. I took it in because I was having a constant clunking noise that I couldn't track down. The bushings on my lowers are shot (he said I can just put new bushings in those) and the uppers need to be replaced due to the bad threads. They tightened it all up and I had no clunk on the 15 minute ride back to my apartment, but that's just temporary until I can afford the $500 he quoted to have it all fixed up properly.
I just want to get the right upper arms and not have to go replacing entire units again. Bushings I can deal with.
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Thanks John. I just don't know very much about BDS, but their warranty sounds awesome. At the moment, my TJ sees a ton more street than offroading since there's not very many places around here to go. What you said makes sense. Thanks again!
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So I found out today that my TJ needs new rear upper adjustable control arms because the Daystar pieces of crap are shot. I was told by Hoak's 4x4 that I should stay away from arms with flex joints because they wear out fast? I thought flex joints were a good thing. He recommended that I buy BDS adjustable arms that have regular bushing ends.
So, I'm looking for advice on whether or not to get the BDS arms. If not, then which should I go with? Thanks!
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Didn't work:
Already built 8.8 set up for a different lift. Now running stock - budget boost shocks in the rear which isn't cool.
I think that's the only thing that makes me go
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Me and the pup:
The Jeep:
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Mine seems the same (mpg wise), but I don't drive the Jeep nearly enough to notice it. I'm overgeared at 4.88. I should be running 35" tires, but I'm on 33s!
What I notice now is just more power. I don't miss my 3.07s at all.
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I really don't desire to keep the 3.73s. I'd love to go 4.56.Then go for it. I don't know what your financial situation is, but if you can't afford it then
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I didn't build my 8.8 myself, but here is a price list from what I know based off of how mine was built:
8.8's I've seen used going for $150 - $350
If you want to keep 3.73s, then that's great because you can find them in stock form with 3.73s.
Mine was built with the M.O.R.E bracket kit - all of the brackets have to be completely redone as 8.8s are setup to be leaf sprung. Bracket kit from M.O.R.E. is $329.99 but other manufacturers have them cheaper from what I understand. You would need to research brackets.
The only other thing you would need is the e-brake cables since the 8.8 uses a different kit. M.O.R.E. has these cables for $123.00, but I think you can use ZJ ones. I'm not sure on that though.
M.O.R.E. also sells the yoke you need to change to in order to run a TJ driveshaft. It's $40, but again I believe this part can be found cheaper.
In addition to all that, my axle was regeared to 4.88s, had new brake setups installed, and has a Rockcrusher cover. You may also need a shorter driveshaft as the 8.8 has a longer pinion than the D35.
So basically to set up the 8.8 assuming you find one with 3.73s for $350 and use all M.O.R.E. 8.8 products, you are looking at around $850 or so not including labor. I was lucky and got mine for $790 off of eBay ready to bolt in. Either way, if I had to do it all over again and built the axle myself I'd still go with an 8.8. Good luck!
Oh and: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com…-bolt-in-tj-assembly.html
I personally think that is really pricey, but to each their own. I just figured it might be something that you would be interested in.
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Just entered. Good luck to anyone who is playing along!
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Thanks a lot for the info Bill! I'll go check it out later.
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I'll go out a little later to climb under it and look. Where is it located on the tcase?
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I recently had the clutch replaced on my TJ. I hadn't put it in 4wd until recently, so I don't know if maybe they disconnected something and didn't reconnect it or what. The 4wd light that illuminates in the instrument cluster when 4wd is engaged is not coming on. Is there something that I need to check or replace to get this to work again? Thanks!
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I haven't clicked on everyone else's links to compare prices, but when I got tires for my car I used http://www.discounttiredirect.com. Shipping is free, and the tires were delivered in 2 days I do believe. They were only 1 month old going by the date printed on them which was great. I couldn't find the tires I got any cheaper anywhere else. I plan on using them again when I go to 35s on my TJ. Good luck!
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I would take a front shock out and then measure it, and then do the same with the rear.
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Are you ever down in DE? I will meet you somewhere if you'd like.Unfortunately I'm not. I'm in York, PA right now.
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Not a bad idea. I might have to do this just for the heck of it (good preventative measure).
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Nice! I haven't had the guts to go to 2.2 yet. Too many people are bricking Incredibles doing it wrong or having it go haywire on them. I don't have insurance, so I think I'm just going to wait for the official and unroot and do it...maybe.
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I'm going to have to find a way to get my shirts.
Mainly because I am perfectly happy with the way my phone is set up right now. If I could figure out how to undo root, move to 2.2, and downgrade Google Maps/Navigation back to the version I have now I would probably be on Froyo. Oh well.
