Posts by jace

    So, when I dropped the tank in my YJ to replace my fuel pump, I found that the fuel pump tray was cracked and the plastic spot welds that attach it to the tank were broken (1st pic) Tank is in otherwise great shape, and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to. Has anyone repaired this before? I used a plastic welder to fix the cracks and some plastic welding rod to re-attach the tray to the tank (2nd pic) but second guessing myself if I should use this or not as I'm not sure the plastic welding rod filler is the same material and will hold up to gasoline, or if I'll be finding bits of it clogging my fuel filter and injectors in a few months? Any insight would be appreciated!


    It is! I really lucked out - the frame is damn near perfect. The only area that needs attention is the seat mount locations - the sheet metal is cracked from (I'm guessing) the stress. Assuming this is a common problem?

    Yes - I have the factory sport cage (rust free) from a '91. This limits my options for frameless tops and whatnot. If you're willing to swap, I can work on pulling it out this weekend and can bring it up to you whenever it's convenient for you. It's red, if that matters to you at all...

    TJ amber turn lenses - free to good home


    TJ Adjustable track bar - unsure of brand. Yours for 6 pack of dogfish.


    TJ Dana 35 stock shafts. Great shape. Yours for 6 pack of dogfish.


    Hi lift mount - free to good home.


    Beer taps - will trade for beer.


    6" LED light pods. Never used. Yours for 6 pack of dogfish.


    33" spare tire on factory rim. Free to good home if anyone needs a trail spare.


    Everything located in Newark, DE.

    I have a GM 6.0 in my daily driver truck. Replaced the radiator last weekend, and ever since then, the engine temperature never gets above the 1/4 mark. Today I replaced the thermostat and the coolant temperature sensor (with GM factory parts), but the results are the same. While driving around the check engine light even came one for a P0128 (Coolant temp below threshold). The radiator is a Champion radiator (aftermarket, all aluminum, 3-core vs the factory 1-core) but that shouldn't make a difference, should it? At a bit of a loss. Any advice on what to try next?

    I've checked with a few shops locally, and they are in the $300 ballpark. I've installed remote starts in older 90's-era cars without the fancy electronics, so I understand the basics, and thought it wouldn't be hard to do since I'm not worried about door locks or anything else. The JK has a grey key with no fob at all (no keyless entry). Was hoping that for $45 and an afternoon I could get this installed in my garage - I'm just not familiar with what I would need from a bypass module perspective.

    Looking into putting remote start into wifey's 2009 JKU. It is a base model with manual doors/windows (no keyless entry). I understand the easiest way to do this is to buy the OEM remote start module since it's plug-and-play, but this requires the keyless entry module. Therefore, I'm going aftermarket. I'm not worried about adding door locks or alarm, and only need a basic 1-button, 1-way remote start system. Amazon has the Avital 4115L that looks like it will suit my needs (http://a.co/3E8EyUS).
    Does anyone have any experience with these?
    Do JK's without keyless entry still have a security system or anything that requires a bypass module?

    wifey's JKU has been seeping trans fluid around the transmission cooler lines where they are crimped- apparently a common problem. They started dripping on the driveway so I decided to cut off the crimps with a dremel and get some soft line and decent clamps, but I can't for the life of me get the new hoses over the flare in the hard line. Any tips/pointers? Anyone done this before?

    wifey was in a fender bender and mangled up the front bumper on her JK. If anyone has a stocker laying around, or even a cheap aftermarket one, please let me know.
    Thanks! :beer: