Posts by jace

zigzag - can you send me some pics?
where is it located? stick or auto?

thanks!

[size=2px]2004 TJ 5-speed, so does that make it a NV3550?[/size]
I've owned it since 30k miles, and it's always made a little rattle, but it's NOTICEABLY worse now... definitely sounds like marbles in the bell housing, but performance is unaffected - clutch engages and it shifts like it always has.

I'm prepared to throw a clutch and throwout bearing at it, along with resurfacing the flywheel. I also have a grind when shifting from 1 to 2, so might have a trans shop take a look at that while it's apart. At almost 100k, it's due for some parts. Just wondering if the noise is the worst part, or if I am sitting on a grenade that will leave me stranded after a few hours of wheeling...

Yeah, as much as I hate to cancel a trip I've been looking forward to, I want to be smart about it. I'm not afraid of tackling the repair, just don't have time before the trip. I guess I'm just wondering if this is one of those things that can take a bit of abuse, or if it falls in the category of "stop driving it IMMEDIATELY"...

So, over the last day or two, my TJ has been making a nice rumbling noise when idling, that goes away when you push the clutch in. I'm getting ready to turn 100k miles on my stock clutch, so I'm guessing the throwout bearing is on it's way out. Clutch still has plenty of grip in it. However, I'm supposed to go to Rausch this weekend with friends. Should I be worried about wheeling with a noisy throwout bearing, or will 2 days at Rausch risk it giving up entirely and leaving me stranded? I'm driving up and back - not trailering. Looking for advice...
Thanks!

Bump. Warm weather is just around the corner...

I've never been to Wildwood - wouldn't mind checking this out with the fam...

Just a quick question on the spare - I have 33's and keep a 31" spare on my tailgate. My logic is that if I ever get in trouble on the trail, I can throw a 31 on for a spare and limp off the trail. I'm locked in the rear, so if I need to replace a rear tire, I'll put the spare on the front, and move a front tire to the rear to keep both my rears the same size, but if my front is open, is a 2" diameter difference going to hurt me to limp off the trail?

I know that finding $1,000 cars with any kind of life left in them is going to be hard, but I figured I'd post on here in the even that anyone comes across anything. Looking for a car for my girlfriend's daughter - she has a job and is commuting to college. Looks and full functionality are not important. I'm an amateur mechanic, but hate working on cars every weekend, so looking for something reasonably reliable and safe. Thanks!

SOLD

Just in time for winter - Craftsman 5 HP 22" dual stage snow thrower with electric start. Have original owners manual. Used very little and always stored properly. Last year I cleaned/rebuilt the carb, but I'm only an amateur so it does need to be adjusted as I'm having trouble starting it at the moment (I'm more of a computer geek/fuel-injection kinda guy). $200 firm. Located in Newark, DE.

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[img width=1200 height=675]https://lh6.googleusercontent.…20-no/20150112_194145.jpg[/img]

[img width=1200 height=675]https://lh6.googleusercontent.…20-no/20150112_194110.jpg[/img]

once it's removed, it's trash. Use a mixture of dish soap and warm water to get any residue off, or just use some Goo-gone. Some tint shops will remove it as well for a couple bucks.

they check everything during inspection. I went through on a warm day with my top and windows down (no visual clue of window tint), and they still checked.

I actually just went through this with my daily driver, which actually only has 50% tint. My daily is a stereotypical "old lady" car, so I don't generally get hassled by cops. My brother (a county cop) said that unless your vehicle is suspicious, or you are getting pulled over for any other traffic violation, you generally won't get a ticket for tint. However, the DMV has been getting pretty strict about this for inspections, and my eye doctor has a blanket policy that they do not sign tint waivers at all (and I have been with my eye doctor for 17 years). I eventually gave up and removed the tint myself. Keep in mind, it's only the front windows (immediate driver and passenger side) that can't have ANY tint, and windshield (no tint below the AS1 line). Any rear windows you can tint as much as you want.

So, bringing this back with some updates...

I've replaced the lug nuts with new ones.
I've verified the new studs are actually shorter than the stock ones by 1/4"
I've replaced the brake drums.

It turns out that the actual brake drum might not be quite sitting flush and that's why I'm having issues. I've got G2 shafts installed, and I've emailed them to see if they've heard of this before. It's almost like the face of the shaft where the wheel studs threads in is a little thicker, or the shaft is ever so slightly longer than stock. Wondering if there is a special brake drum I need to use for these shafts? Has anyone else had an issue like this? Ready to throw the stock shafts back in and keep the G2's as trail spares at this point...

Lug nuts definitely have some years/miles on them, so I will swap them out. I wonder if it could be that the new studs are too long? Gonna try some open-end lug nuts temporarily...

Having a weird issue where my rear lug nuts keep loosening up on their own on my TJ. Steel wheels and the same lug nuts I've always used. I can tighten them up to 100 foot-lbs with my torque wrench, and after about 100 miles, I can get 2 or 3 full turns on them. I even took it to a shop and had them rotate the tires, just to make sure it wasn't my torque wrench or something I'm doing wrong.

This started when I put some replacement/aftermarket shafts in (D35). I noticed that the new shafts don't have the wheel studs pressed in, they thread in. I found it odd that they are not reversed thread, so that when you tighten up the lug nut, they don't back out, but apparently, that's the way they were designed. Unsure if this has anything to do with it or not, or if anyone has had a similar experience with these shafts, but I would greatly appreciate any insight anyone might have.

2006 Victory Vegas 8-ball with ~16,xxx miles, meticulously maintained and garaged with religious oil changes with only Victory fluids. Dealer-installed stage 1 kit (Arlen Ness exhaust, intake, and re-flash), black mirrors and headlight, key/ignition relocated, debadged, tinted turn signals, LED lighting kit, etc. 100ci motor is fast, loud, and fun. Currently tagged and inspected in Delaware with clean title in hand, and all receipts and paperwork. Price is $8,000 firm, located in Newark, DE

[img width=1200 height=712]https://lh6.googleusercontent.…1357-h806-no/IMAG0695.jpg[/img]

I have a Kenmore Elite dryer (electric) that runs, but does not get hot. I suspect the heating element, but not sure. Looking for any recommendations on a repair tech ASAP.
Thanks!

SOLD.