Posts by loki

    I have been messing with mine as well to get the right formula to get through emissions, timing, air/fuel mix, idle jets, I will try again tomorrow. Hopefully you will get it going soon, remember when you put load on the motor it may bring up issues. Just reving it up with the linkage or pedal will get it going but once on the street things may not work as well, it could fall on its face due to too much gas.

    Skip, after putting my new one on and not being able to dial it in fully I called Weber. The dude told me that the Spectre fuel pressure regs with the dial are junk, which is what I have been using. I tried removing it totally since I have a fuel return hooked up but it didn't work. I got it dialed in the best I could but my motor/exhaust sounded quiet, I bumped up the pressure to 4.5 and it is much better and have been running it at that. I would run it at 5 and leave it, apparently that's what it needs. The regulator must not be as accurate as it should be.


    The floats are adjusted by bending the metal tab that sits in the needle valve and holds the floats, try tweaking that a little. Being that your motor is stock, it probably will run rich though. Did you check your timing? That may also be a factor.


    You may also want to change out one of the idle jets which are on both sides of the carb, to lean the mixture. The instructions will tell you which to change when running rich at certain rpm's, I can't recall off hand.


    Check the accelerator pump and related parts, it was replaced in the rebuild but still may have an issue and may be dumping too much fuel. Good luck

    Here is a pic of some original flat fenders from the factory. The fenders on my CJ7 are factory steel that I just cut to make more room.....DMV?.....what's that? Civil disobedience is the name of the game, my tires on the 7 stick out 6" all the way around and the tires on the 47 are the same way or more.


    Here are a couple pictures of my Canadian M101 1/4 ton trailer. I have a Hi-lift mount on it and two jerry can mounts that aren't on in the picture. I plan on adding a spare tire carrier to hold one for the trailer and possibly doing a SOA to try and match the height of my 47. They also make a hub conversion to match the 5 on 5.5 which I would like to do and have all six wheels match so I only need one spare. Sorry, the pictures need to be resized I guess, not sure why they are chopped on the side.


    Yeah, I read in the manual how to turn it off in 4hi by holding it for five seconds, which is good to know. I was hoping that there was a way to turn it off completly in 2wd but that doesn't seem to be the case. By hitting the button it does allow some wheel spin but I wanted to turn it off all the way and not have to hit the button every time I get in and have it totally off, not just partially off. Oh well

    I remember someone on here before talking about how to disable/turn off the ETS on the JK. I did a search but didn't see it.


    I went to the manual and it says it is only possible to do it in 4HI. Is there a way to turn it off when in 2wd and have it stay off without it causing some other issues? thanks


    What "after markets" did you add??


    The only things I had on there at the time of the problems were a new muffler and intake. Everything else like the bumpers,hood and rocker guards were added later. It has nothing to do with any of the aftermarket stuff that is on there.


    The only TSB i saw for auto trans was torque converters needed to be replaced, thats probly your issue.


    As I said in the two posts before, the torque converter was replaced twice actually, they are telling me that it is the clutch packs not slipping against each other then locking up, they are just locking up with no slippage causing the shudder. This is supposedly do to new material that the packs are made of, and like I said before this is just a guess by them. I'm not trying to be a jerk but all my previous posts state everything that I know and was told by the dealership and now it seems I am just being redundant. I appreciate the help but just check out the previous posts first. thanks

    I really don't have a lot of major issues with it other than the tranny issue and only having just enough power. This tranny thing is putting a sour taste in my mouth. Oh yeah....traction control(ESP) blows!


    As for the first year model thing, I do agree somewhat but we were in a time crunch for a vehicle and went with it. This tranny has been used in other vehicles so it is not a first year for it, just some of the internals is what I was told. It stinks that I have this lift and all for it and can just look at it, but to avoid anymore issues I will wait.


    DrJ- These problems did not arise until I was at around 4k+ so mine could have had issues sooner than others, not to say you will have issues but Jeep is saying that the 08's are turning up now with the same issue, hope for the best.

    They replaced the torque converter, valve body, solenoid pack, clutch discs, seals, pump, etc. Like I said they rebuilt the whole thing. The engineers at Chrysler (STAR) don't even know of a fix yet. There were two other JKs in there doing the same thing supposedly.

    They are going to try and replace the clutch packs with some from the old vendor because the new ones in the trannys are made of a different material and not allowing slippage before they lock together and that is what is supposedly causing the shudder, according to them. It seems that all the tests on the tranny pass but the noise/vibe remains. They are just trying to narrow down the problem now by trying different things. Who knows, we may end up with a new JK with a manual, that is what I am going for, I had enough of this thing. Plus who knows if later after the extended warranty is up that I won't have issues since this thing has been torn into so many times.


    JK's suck! That is my motto until a true solution is found.

    I am trying to see if anyone else is experiencing any issues with the auto tranny in their 07-08 JK. I have had ours to the dealership four times now to have a shudder/vibration looked at between the 1-2 shift. They said that other JKs have been doing it as well.


    The tranny has been rebuilt twice now and is going back in on tuesday to have different clutch packs made of a different material put in. They have stated that they don't know how to fix the problem (this is from the dealership as well as Chrysler tech support)and their last solution was to add a limited slip additive to the tranny fluid which I said was going to cover up the problem and sure enough the vibe was back within a week.


    The noises started with less than 4k on the Jeep. Anyone that is looking into the auto in a JK, think again this is not an isolated incident according to Jeep. This is the reason why I have not installed the lift,tires and Jet chip I have. I do not want them blaming aftermarket accessories.


    I have recently gone through Chrysler customer service to see what else can be done, I am about to lemon law this POS or make them give us the same Jeep but with a manual and swap all my aftermarkets over. Let me know if anyone has thought they felt/heard a vibe/shudder during the initial shift into second gear, usually when the Jeep is cold and pulling away gradually but it is noticeable when at normal temps but not as severe.

    I guess I missed some drama?


    I am a big fan of a modest suspension and cutting fenders for big tires. Some people don't want to cut fenders or buy expensive high clearance fenders which is understood. On a CJ that looks less then perfect then go for it. There are low profile spring plates as well if you are keeping it SUA with some more clearance. I shoved 37's under mine and have only minor to no rubbing at all angles. I plan on an SOA soon with wider axles, I have it all, just have to put it on.


    For someone looking just to lift it and have fun then go with the Black Diamond kit and upgrade as you go.

    I have had the RE 4.5" on and it's been great. Had to replace some spring/shackle bushings but thats over a few years. They flex nice and provide at least 4.5" or more, I have 37's on with some chopped fenders. Now the kit is pretty high priced but it is probably the best leaf spring kit out there for a CJ. The Black Diamond is decent too, my friend just got one and it looks pretty good for the money, especially WITH shocks.


    When I installed my RE kit it came with a tcase drop kit as do most kits. I have an aftermarket aluminum valve cover on and when the engine tilted from the drop kit it contacted the firewall(the motor mount bushings were bad then which didn't help). I put the tcase back up to the stock position and ordered a Tom Woods CV shaft for more money but a better setup..... just my experience with the lift.

    It is the AEV hood, after the holiday that and the factory flares are going to get painted the same Stone white as the Jeep to match. The bumper is the Mopar non-winch model, which will stay black.
    I picked up some of those Jeep tire track floor mats as well to get rid of the carpet ones. The lift is the common Teraflex 2.5" but I went with Skyjacker Hydro shocks. I am undecided as to which tire to get though, it will most likely be a 34"-35" AT or mild MT. The Jeep has the tow package with the 4.09's which help somewhat with the tires, we'll see.

    We have a white 4dr that I put some soft 8's on as well as a Flowmaster and Air raid intake. I have a few other things in the garage that will be going on after the holidays such as lift, tires, bumper and hood.

    I think they are different but check the hinges/gate measurements on both hardtops and you may be able to put a CJ lift gate on the YJ hardtop. I don't think it will work but I have a CJ liftgate with window you can have if it does. Some aftermarket tops you may be able to switch parts on, not sure which one you have. I have a CJ hardtop if you need measurements.


    You could put a crappy YJ tailgate/hinges on but the CJ one is much better.