No issues with the head. Yes the speedo gear has been replaced and it's dead on per GPS.
Thanks - Canon 35/1.4 on a 7D.
The head is newer (3 years old about), It is an aftermarket model that I ordered through summit racing (designed to fix the head issues of 01 models, thicker head and better design). It included new valves and springs and head bolts. I did all the work, and apparently, I did it well.
Good luck with the sale!
Cj-
Did a shakedown run the other day and played in the snow, the pit-bull’s did not like the snow, nor is the jeep heavy enough to compact the snow to make a nice trail. The jeep did great and pulled two stuck Chevys out of the woods. The transmission spit a bunch of fluid onto the floor, so I need to investage as to why it decided to do that, the stock rubber trans mount shook around a little too much, so I need to make some axillary mounts or a new more rigid mount. Also have found a company that will turn the digital signals from the computer to a signal my speedo and tach can understand. All 2000 late model OBDII systems use a single wire for all gauges, so to hook up an aftermarket tach and speedo. Moving in a week and will be getting a Garage!!! The biggest update is having a place to work on it. 
Cj-
Sounds like you need to do a full bleed on the system making sure the MC stays full. Did you install the new rear drum brake cylinder with the bleeder valve facing the right way? is sounds like the MC drained while you were changing the brakes, or there could be some crud in the system. I would pull the MC, clean it, bench bleed it, and then bleed the entire system.
It sounds like you have a bubble somewhere.
Cj-
Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder? if you did not a bubble might be trapped. Plus when you do a new master cylinder you should bleed the entire system. Find a buddy and bleed the piss out of it, front and back.
Cj-
what are some specs info on your jeep? stock running gear? motor?
Cj-
I’m looking for TJ door pieces that join to the soft top and create a door seal, do u still have them, and how much.
Thanks
CJ-
pm sent
if he dosent take it sal i will.
thanks
CJ-
DO you still have the stock axles and if so are you looking to sell them
Long gone, sorry.
the 60 in the rear is a big rock catcher
you may want to consider the ford8.8
I had one in my YJ on 35's it ran well
i know it is, it gets hung up on everything, i was thinking of building a 14b rear ford HP 60 combo this winter, or going for AAM Axles out of a ram 2500 or 3500.
Winter is here in Vermont unfortunately, and the jeep is all stored up till spring.
Cj-
Display More
Ok, so over the past year this tiny little problem with my Jeep has progressively gotten worse. About a year ago I noticed that sometimes immediately after starting the Jeep up it would sputter - it would sound like it wasn't hitting on all 6. All I'd do is put in the clutch, wait a few seconds, then drive like nothing happened. As another example, last year while down at the beach, I'd fill up at the gas station, then while leaving and turning left onto Rt 1. to go back north, it started sputtering. It barely limped through the intersection. I kept my foot on the gas and after about 10 seconds everything was normal - it got all its power back. Last winter I noticed that it wouldn't idle right over the rocks in low range, the RPMs would get low and then the engine would kick it back up to ~1k. This made it difficult to control but simply turning off the heat fixed the problem. This most recent summer the same problem came back but didn't go away even with the heat and a/c off. This season I've already driven it down to the beach and driven on the sand without issues, except that when it sputtered after starting up it started to buck with a lot more force and lasted longer than before. I've replaced the TPS, removed the throttle body, IAC, and MAP sensor and sprayed it all down with sensor cleaner and re-installed: no difference. I am unsure of where to start trouble shooting and what good a shop will do in diagnosing it. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks a lot for reading,
Sal
[size=3]Sal, [/size]
[size=3]I check this site regularly and this was the first time I saw this post, this is very similar to the issue’s I have been having with my jeep. My research has led me to several causes:[/size]
[size=3]Vaccum leak[/size]
[size=3]Bad Crank Position Censor[/size]
[size=3]Bad Throttle Position Censor[/size]
[size=3]Bad Cam Position Censor[/size]
[size=3]Bad Oxygen Censors[/size]
[size=3]Clogged fuel filters[/size]
[size=3]Bad fuel pump[/size]
[size=3]Clogged or fouled injectors[/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]I have replaced all of these to attempt to fix the issue, but I believe the problems on my jeep were a vacuum leak, with a bad downstream O2, and CPS. I have a Snap-On diagnostic tool that I used to figure out my injectors were fouling, then a fuel pressure tester to find out the fuel filter in the fuel pressure regulator was clogged, and then replaced the O-2 and CPS. The problem is now infrequent, only happening every now and then, but still occurs. [/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]As far as the sluggishness mine was caused by the distributer being slightly off, It felt like the timing was off, the motor hesitates and when you push the gas feels like its drowning. The biggest fix for me was to adjust the distributer to bring it back into the sweet spot. This might not be an issue for you but since my jeep has been put together like Frankenstein this was one of my issues. So check to make sure your distributer it is secure. [/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]Other than that they only code the jeep throws is a high TPS voltage, which I think Is cause by a ground issue from the rewire or maybe the fact that I have no evap loop. [/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]Either way ill plug in the computer tomorrow and see if I can video the hesitation. [/size]
Cj-
[size=3]I’m trying to figure out the best system for my dual battery set up, I have two optima yellow top batterers made in the same month, I currently have one for the winch and the jeep and the other is not being used. So I want to run a dual battery set up but net sure if I should just series the batteries together, or should have one a primary starting and other for the winch and air compressor. I’m wondering if it is the best to have an isolator kit and what amp isolator I need, I would like to have control of the batteries but then again as long as they are doing what they are supposed to I’m fine with leaving it alone. [/size]
[size=3]Current set up, using the right battery as winch and start.[/size]
[size=3]
[/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]Here is what I was looking at [/size]
[size=3]http://www.12voltguy.com/product.php?productid=17578&cat=258&page=1[/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]or building my own with this[/size]
[size=3]http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SGP32-HIGH-CURRENT-RELAY-ISOLATOR-DUAL-BATTERY-/390473836759?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aea0de8d7&vxp=mtr[/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]The question then is has anyone run a system, made their own isolator set up, or have some knowledge on the subject. what has worked for you?[/size]
[size=3] [/size]
[size=3]Thoughts? [/size]
Looking to install tj flares on my yj and would like some help. Sacred to cut into my jeep. I'm in lower de I have most the tools needed but nothing to cut the jeep straight I was hoping to do it today or tomorrow if anyone is free that be great. Thanks. 3028535743
Why are you cutting into your jeep to install flares? I installed TJ bushwackers on my YJ and the only thing I did was to trim the formed plastic so that the flare sit's flat on the body? Just trim the flares to fit and then either screw them in with self-tapping screws, once you install them with the screws then remove them and paint all the screw holes to stop rust.
Just my .02
Cj-
The new starter from NAPA is going on tomorrow. I will take some pics of the old starter and flywheel when i make the exchange. Is the Mean green starter worth the price? I don't do a whole lot of offroading just the occasional surf fishing trip.
No its not worth it
CJ-
Went out to a local trail for a little test run. Oil prssure sender is leaking like crazy but i will fix it this week.
Hopefully more hardocre wheeling before winter.
CJ-
Wow,,, I'm getting ready to do a 4.0 in my CJ. But I am sticking to a 91-95 Cherokee motor. Keeping with the OBDI rather than the OBDII found in the 1996 and up. Still searching for my donor Jeep.
I hear ya, its a ton of work
Just to show what I used to fix it, a code scanner from Snap-On, it does OBD 1 and 2 as well as diagnostic for all commuters up to 2002, (my model goes up to 2002), this thing is great, i can modify rps, see all censor data, volts, and codes with specific details. I got if from the snap on guy for a deal, (since I bought it in 2010 and it only goes up to 2001). The best way to go about it is getting a good donor jeep, and then you can just transfer everything.
Good luck.
Cj-
So these past 5 weeks I have been trying to figure out why the jeep was running so shitty, and it seems that there were a lot of factors that were at play here. The jeep would not idle, it would sometimes idle and then cut out, and often it would not run over 2k rpm. So with a buddy's help and a snap-on computer we began to diagnose the problems.
First issue was the extra voltage and not idling factor, after several days of looking and testing bob figured out that the tachometer signal wire I had added was sending the incorrect voltage to the CPU, so it was either pulling to many volts or adding voltage to the system. Result was consistent rough idle. But now runs without cutting out.
Second issue was the fuel injectors, I had a cut and melted injector, it was fouling in the #4 cylinder, I ordered new Bosch Gen 4 Dodge Neon injectors with 4 injector holes, changed all the injectors and cleaned nasty fuel rail. Result, more stable idle but still cuts out over idle.
Third issue, clogged fuel filter, you assume this would be the first thing I checked, which I did, but not until reading the Mopar service manual I learned that on TJ’s there is a pre filter on the pressure regulator. So I pulled the regulator and lines out of the tank and cleaned them. Fuel pressure returned. Result, smooth idle, runs up to 2-3 rpm and then cuts out.
Fourth issue, the motor is out of a 2000 jeep with California emissions, the computer relies heavly on oxygen sensors to run correctly. The rear bottom oxygen sensor was cut, un-noticeable until I pulled it out, other O2 censors read between 1-3 volts, the trouble maker was 4-5v. So I replaced it. Result, much better idle and still cuts out but not nearly as often.
Fifth issue, intermittent loss of CPS or CKS. Crank position sensor and cam position censor. Both were bad, I think from the voltage spike from the extra tach signal, but replace both. Result, ran much better, cut out only a few times.
Sixth issue, no B+ power to ECU, so it does not remember previous cycles. Still working on this one
Seventh issue, cam position censor needed to be adjusted, trial and error, moving slightly until, smooth idle, start up, and no cut outs. Result, runs better than it ever has and works as it should, no more big issues.
So this is what I have been doing, I also in frustration pulled the entire wiring harness, rechecked all wires, and re-taped and tested circuits.
Overall this was a nightmare. I don’t recommend an engine swap across model to anyone, YJ-TJ and such, or if you do please avoid anything after 2000 or with California emissions.
CJ-
At least you can by-pass the heater core for now.
thought about it, but a new one will be in tomm but at 45.00 i guess ill just finish it....
CJ-
Today I pulled the windshield arms and replaced them with new Mopar replacements, the plastic bushings were shot, the new coil pack came in and I replaced that with a new one, and finally the heater core decided to crap the bed so I ordered that today, since it has been fixed a few times before so I guess a new one is a good idea. Hopefully, hopefully this will be the end of this nickel and dime shit.
New wiper arms
Coils old and new
Heater core strikes again
More to come, hopefully wheeling.......
Cj-
