Last night I mounted the jack, rear view mirror, and then mocked up the satellite radio. Then I have to do the wiring, not looking forward to starting that. 
Cj-
Posts by yankee19934
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Todays progress, got the rear shocks finished, both are angled 5 degrees in, HD lower tabs to protect the shocks, finished all the frame tie ins for the cage.
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X2
just becasue you dont have one does not mean someone just joining or someone who needs some cash doesnt want to sell one, half the time stuff on here coms from a guy that knows a guy that has the part needed...
they are great winches, I have looked up here in vermont for awhile and normally just find old M-8000's that the farmers use. But i know ill find one. I saw one on a Cj last week.
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Today mocked the rear shocks up, put on both doors and got them aligned, put on the TJ cab kit and marked the top to be shortened, the cage is too long for a YJ bikini and too short for a full cab cover, so I’m going to have the top shortened 6”. Also finished the cage tie ins for the back and re welded a bunch of welds. Got the front end all sanded and repainted. And put together.
Where I think ill mount the high lift
Finished tire latch with safety
More to Come
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If you don’t have space for a conventional long travel shock this could work for you. Having 4 shafts seems to be overkill to me, unless its what they had to do to keep the shock stable, but maybe a double shaft with smaller reserve reservoir or different gas may be a better idea. I’m curious as to the valving and how they ride. I would assume they stay cooler than a regular shock to a point but then take longer to cool when they heat up, there is a lot of moving material there.
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Looks great, love the ballistic skull, what ram are you using? my ram works great but have had some issues with the stock steering pump keeping up...
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Today got the front shocks mounted, aligned the tires and rotated them. Took a better picture of the cage reinforcement. I was going to mount the rear shocks but had to think about it instead of using the stock location or the rear location. I’m not sure what the optimal rear shock angle should be, I was thinking about making a shock bar and mounting the shocks rear ward at about 25 degrees. But we will see.
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Today's progress, pulled the seats and started to run the battery cables, installed the tray, batteries, and cover. Welded gussets on the roll cage, 2 4" 5/16 strips per a foot to add strength, re weeded alot of my flux core welds to ensure strength, added two brackets to hold the windshield and started mounting the front shocks. Had to remove both fenders to do the welding. Today was a good day.
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Today got all the parts I have been waiting weeks on. Now ill wire up the batteries and mount the shocks. I made a safety on the tire swing hatch, mounted the doors, mounted the windshield wipers and motor. More to come.
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Today measured for new shocks, still not maxed, need a bigger rock.
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You can read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum…ch-slave-cylinder-511531/
Thanks I’ll give that a try tomorrow, it seems if you pull it out and pump it, hopefully it will help to get the bubbles out. Or I’m going to bleed the line separately and then reattach it and then try to bleed it again.
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There is no way to bleed it.
It's a sealed assembly.
Master and slave come as one unit.
mine is 3 units, the MC- a braided steel line- and the clutch piston... there has to be a way.
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Today got the wheels back on and finished the wiring. I still have to measure for shocks and a few other projects. But today ran into an issue…:
I have a motor and tranny from a 2001 Tj, backed with a 5 speed NV-3550. I have never figured out how to bleed the clutch properly. I would say it’s about half the pressure it should be. There is a bleeder valve but it will not blead. How do these systems get bleed? There is nothing in the Haynes manual… and not much online.
Thanks,
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ill take the high lift ORK kit if he dosent
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This week have been running the wiring, ordered some parts and getting the dual battery setup finished.
Worked on the truck, put the rough country springs on. They claim to be a leveling spring but actually are more like 3in lift springs. So the truck is sitting at 44.5 inches from ground to middle of front wheel well and 42.5in in the rear. I called rough country and they said to give it a week to settle down and level out but I don’t think it will settle enough, so I ordered 1.5in blocks for the rear. I donno how much springs compress (some of you TJ guys would know) but I want the truck level, so when the blocks come in tomorrow their getting put on. If the springs settle ill cut the blocks to match. Got new running boards and 35in Cooper AT-3’s. The new springs ride great but I can’t wait to see it level.
More to come.
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Ill probably end up needing a traction bar eventually. oh btw its gotta be better then no shocks
Thats what i was going to say. Some shocks are better than none....You typed it just before I posted this. but ill post it anyway.
You should think about adding a traction bar kit and it should do the job of limiting the axle wrap and hop. I know xj springs are super flexy. something to contain that axle from twisting would be a good thing. Jeeps looking good, hopefully you get it right. summers on the way.
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Is that how it's supposed to look?
yup, thats what i wanted.
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Jeep project leftovers.
302-423-137nine
I have some parts left overDual batter tray, by ballistic fab. Fits optima tops. 70.00
Tire carrier locking hinge, heavy duty model 45.00
Steel 2x4 .120 wall steel 42in. Can be used for a front jeep steel bumper. 20.00
6 gag fuse block. (have two of them) 10.00 ea
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Todays progress
more to come.
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Today’s progress, cleaned up the shop and put the spare rim on the carrier to take a look. Next week: rust removal, shock measuring and then order new ones, find a pit-bull spare tire, fluids, and finish electronics system.
More to come
Cj-
