Posts by Myocum

    The jeep title and tub are a 1987 Wrangler YJ with 185k miles. The axles and transfer case are about the only other parts still original. The tub is sitting on a 1994 YJ Frame. When I installed the frame I painted it with POR15. In a few places I did not get the black cover paint on quick enough and the paint flakes off exposing the gray POR below. Beneath the brake master cylinder the POR has come off due to spilled brake fluid. The engine is a rebuilt 1985 4.2L 6cyl motor with low miles. At purchase I was told it had approximately 8k on it and I’ve put on another 7k. Engine is strong and runs fine. The carb is a Weber 38 DGES, a bit much for how I use it but it works better than the Carter it replaced. The ignition has been replaced with a GM HEI ignition. I replaced all the wires, plugs, cap, rotor, and coil in preparation for getting it registered this summer. Overall, the jeep is a cosmetic basket case, I have kept it this way so I can park it in downtown Wilmington and have no fear that some knucklehead will screw with it.


    The Stats:
    1987 YJ Tub 185k miles w/Bikini Top, hardtop, and full hard doors
    1995 YJ Frame w/POR15 treatment
    1985 4.2L 6 Cyl Engine w/1” Engine lift
    1967 SM420 4 speed Manual Transmission (rebuilt 6k miles ago) w/Novak adapters and external slave clutch cylinder
    GM HEI Ignition
    2” Body Lift
    2.5” Rough Country Lift Kit
    1” engine lift
    NP231 Transfer Case (Note, this is a 1987 NP231 with a different input spline count) w/Novak shift kit
    D35 Rear Axle w/open differential, stock 3.06
    D30 Front Axle w/4x4 Posi-Lock axle disconnect, open diff, stock 3.06
    York Compressor On Board Air w/regulator, filter, 2 gal. tank, & front and rear quickconnects
    KC HiLite Driving Lamps
    31” Goodyear Wrangler Tires w/approx. 3k miles on them
    A to Z Fabrication Stubby Front Bumper w/2” receiver and winch protection bar
    A to Z Fabrication Rear Bumper w/2” receiver (note: does not have additional A to Z frame tie ins)
    Jeep Aluminum Rims
    Flowmaster muffler
    Summit Racing High Flow Catalytic Converter
    Hood mounted Hi-lift Jack
    Tuffy Stereo Security Console (No stereo installed)
    2012 Surf Fishing Tag
    Tagged until Dec 2014


    Upcoming or Continuing Work Projects:
    Tub is/has/will rot in several places. I’ve been patching as I have needed and have been keeping an eye out for a new tub for replacement.
    The transmission was lifted for clearance issues and with the new lift kit can stand to be lowered 1”-1.5” to allow a better angle for the rear driveshaft. Driveshaft lengths are fine.
    The transfer case was clocked down for clearance issues and if you are going to lower the transmission you will need to re-clock it to clear the belly pan.
    The belly pan has been cut and patched multiple times. Keep an eye out for a new one.
    The windshield seal leaks and rain is forced in around the windshield.
    The steering box leaks. I have controlled it with steering fluid additives.
    There is a tire rub at the extreme end of a right turn. Don’t turn it that far.
    The transmission shifter tower casting has (02) holes for roll pins that hold the shifter and dust cover to the transmission top cover. The casting on the right side has broken off at the hole. Does not effect shifting and have driven it this way since installed. If it really bothers you, Novak can sell a ’67 transmission cover to you for $150.
    I bought the cheapest clutch available and it’s chattery when hot. If/when you change the clutch, I would consider going back to an internal slave clutch cylinder.


    The Bad:
    Transfer case needs to be rebuilt. Case gives out an occasional “Clunk” when driving. Sneaking suspicion that the pads on the shift fork have worn away. Keep in mind this is a 1987 NP231 that was originally mated to a BA-10. The spline count is different than later years. The SM-420 trans has a output shaft to match.
    Also, have a rattle/grind when occasionally when coasting in gear. This is either the transfer case or a drive shaft vibration. Rear driveshaft u-joints are new.
    The tail pipe is rusted out above the rear axle. This section will need to be repaired. The muffler, catalytic converter and pipe forward is fine.
    The engine is running rough right now and will stall after the choke plate opens up. Haven’t spent a lot of time solving this issue.


    I have several parts and bits to go with the Jeep to help the new owner keep it running. The rear mount bike carrier is not included, but can be part of the sale if we agree on a price. I also have a Yakima roof rack for the hardtop that can also be included at the right price. Note that the photos do not show the hood mounted Hi-lift Jack. Call or text me at 302-218-five eight three six


    Mike


    Asking $2250 or best offer.

    Odds are good, yes, but I do not know the roll bar diameter. The reason I did not use it on my YJ is that I have a kid crusher bar and this needs a vertical section behind the seat akin to a family friendly roll bar.

    I am pretty certain I have to rebuild my NP-231 transfer case. It is one of the last original parts on my '87 YJ with 186,000 miles on it. It's making some solid "clunks" while driving above 35mph and some occasional nefarious grinding/ripping noises when coasting in gear.



    Any recommendations on rebuild kits or tips to share?



    Thanks for your time.