Posts by Myocum

My wife's 2000 Cherokee is driving me nuts. I have believe I have an airlock in the 4.0L and cannot get it out. The engine heats up quick and will overheat when driven. Also there is no heat to the heater box. I have confirmed the box is not plugged by flushing it out.

I have not found a definitive fix on the internet. I've filled the engine to the highest point at the heater box hose at the front of the engine. I've also run the engine to the operating temp with the radiator cap off (all I get is overflowing surges of rad fluid after the thermostat opens.)

Any thoughts? The water pump is not leaking and externally looks fine. Might the pump need replacing? I've never heard of a pump failing that didn't involve the bearing or weep hole.

Thanks.

Quote from Quantum73

Anyone have any experience with the Novak 241OR (or similar 231) replacement shift assembly?

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2xr.htm

I am awfully sick of the feel of the stock linkage, what garbage...

I have that linkage on my YJ. It is very adjustable and works well for me. Since you no longer have the "Z" gate you have to rely on the detents in the transfer case find the correct setting. It's very easy to shoot right past 4Hi to neutral or 4Lo, but certainly better than the stock system.

You are more than welcome to check mine out, should you wish.

Mike

My YJ has a very leaky windshield. With a good rain is comes in very steadily from the top and I can see the wind bubbling in the collected water at the bottom. Apart from taking it to an auto glass shop, how difficult is this to fix?

Mike

I started a similar thread about a month ago and I ended up getting a set of 31" Goodyear MT/R's and have been very happy with them. My preferred tire vendor had a deal going for free mount and balance http://sportscartire.us/ Cost was $181/tire.

The Warden's 2000 XJ has a rusted out freeze plug driver's side between cylinder's 1 and 2. Thankfully, with the power steering pump pulled it's reasonably accessible and has been removed. I'll clean out the hole and get some RTV sealant for the new one to be installed. How much force is required? Can I use a large socket and "walk" it into place fairly easily?

Mike

If you filled your clutch master cylinder and the fluid is mysteriously disappearing with no visible leaks, then I'd suggest that it is your internal slave cylinder. My '87 YJ had one that also leaked significantly. When I replaced my transmission with an SM420, I went with a CJ bellhousing and external slave cylinder and clutch release fork.

In my experience, the biggest issue with converting over to an external slave cylinder on a YJ is obtaining clearance for the front drive shaft, both are on the driver side and competing for space. I'm sitting on stock springs and I had to clock my transfer case as far down as possible, shim the transmission mount up, and also install a 1" engine lift.

If you have a modest lift, you would probably have no problems.

It does have a bolt and it was loose. The shaft looked fine as did the bolt and clamp. It's possible I was a dumb@ss and didn't have the clamp entirely on when I rebuilt the jeep two years and a few thousand miles ago.

The wife and I were returning home after getting some breakfast this morning. After hitting a speedbump a block from my house, my steering shaft pulled off of the input shaft of the steering box. Thankfully, I was only going about 15mph, but it was extremely unsettling to be turning the steering wheel and nothing happening.

I was able to partially put it all back together and get it back into my driveway. The keeper bolts were not missing, but the one at the steering box was loose. I was unable to get the shaft to extend the 1" to properly reattach to the steering box. I eventually pulled the shaft to inspect and found the telescoping section was frozen. After generous applications of penetrating oil with no success, I moved onto generous applications of heat with no success. I was finally able to pull them apart by using a Hi-Lift Jack. The interior was chock full of dirt and other nastiness.

I cleaned it all up and applied a decent quantity of grease. It's all back together now and seems to be fine.

Mike

Thanks. Ignore the duplicate mirrors. The warm weather a couple of days ago got the best of me.

Had the tires installed this morning at Sports Car Tire. They have taken good care of me in the past and did so again today. They look completely bad@ss.

Specs:
1987 YJ Tub with 2" body lift and stock springs
1994 YJ Frame
1985 258 4.2 Engine
1967 GM SM420 Transmission
1987 NP231 Transfer Case
GM HEI Ignition
York Compressor
A to Z Fabrication bumpers front and rear
Bottle opener on body over license plate

AND...
31/10.5/15 Goodyear MT/R with Kevlar tires

Not trying to rub salt in your wound, but did you have wheel locks?

Mike

Thanks again for all the wisdom. I have ordered a set of Goodyear MT/R Kevlar's.

Mike

That sucks.

I have a a pair of 31" generic tires on stock YJ/XJ rims you are welcome to have. The rims have been painted black. I also have another 31" on an older jeep rim.

They're not pretty, but will at least start getting you back to rolling.

Mike

The BFG AT is made in the USA

Thanks for all the response, please keep it coming.

I've narrowed the choices down to the BFG AT, Goodyear MTR, and the Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac.

The MTR's win on looks, the BFG's win on longevity, and the Duratrac seems to combine the two.

Quote from whatevah

There should be a little bit of a curve but I forget how much. A flatter spring will ride smoother, so a lot of the older stock springs weren't curved that much. Mostly the heavier vehicles. I can try to find the factory frame-ground measurements if you want to see how much it's sagged.

edit: with the factory [size=13px]215/75/15 tires, the rocker panels should be 18" off the ground. I believe with the 4.0 and softtop.[/size]

I'd appreciate that, thank you.

Thanks for the offer, but I will politely decline. After I pay to have them mounted, balanced, and then purchase the rims and adapters I'd have exceeded the cost of new 31's for my 15" rims ($181/ea, $724 for a set with free mount and balance.)

Mike

My stock YJ springs are mostly flat. How much curve should be present under a normal load?

Alrighty then...

Next week I will be purchasing a new set of 31" tires for my YJ. I have priced out a set of BFG A/T's and I'm sure they will serve me well, BUT before I drop the coin I wanted to check the options. Like most of us, I drive on pavement more than I'd be driving off road. I don't need, or want, the latest rock climbing craze. Just something for jeep trails and the beach. Most importantly, I'd like a tire made in the US, easily sourced, and with good wear in the AT or MT range. (Understanding the MT's have wear and noise issues.)

The other options BFG T/A KM2, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac, Firestone Destination M/T, Goodyear Wrangler MT/R, and Yokohama M/T Plus (I know, made in Japan.)

Anyone running any of these and want to share their wisdom?