Posts by quadna

    Quote from "OrangeCrush"

    If you want to stop in that would be great but if not just give a holler on the CB when your close and I'll head on out. Or call me on my cell 302-250-6586
    Tom


    we'll pull in at the stop and head out again from there.


    Quote from "joelove"

    Chris,
    I'll meet you at the "north" WaWa at 4:00pm. See you then.
    Joe


    sounds good joe. anyone else want to join our group on friday?
    chris

    it seemed that no matter who i talked too the gold standard for regearing a tj w/35" tires was at the 4.56 gear ratio. but all the info i had seemed to show that 4.56 would just get you into the bottom of the optimum powerband for all-purpose driving. 4.88 gears would truly place you centered in the optimum range - optimum being what my jeep ran at when right off the dealer's lot.


    i think the reason for people seeming to like the 4.56 so much when running 35" tires is this - most people up the lifts, then tires, and then run it like that for awhile as they save up money for the gears. after running 3.07 or 3.73 for awhile on 35" tires the bump to 4.56 seems like the perfect match - all the while still making your normal powerband sit just shy of factory.


    i based my gearing upgrade to 4.88 with 35" tires in mind. but since i went up to the 37" tires i've noticed that i'm about where most people seem to be. meaning - it will get me where i want it to go on the highway but it just doesn't have the power that my jeep came with off the lot. i guess what i'm saying is that i would/will always try to shoot for the lower gear choice - no matter what others say. history shows that people that lift it once will most often lift it again - bringing on the need for larger tires. sucking up the high rpm's for awhile until you up the tire size again doesn't seem like all that bad of a deal compared to being under powered forever after that. besides, my experience has shown that having the rpm range slightly lower at highway speeds in fact makes your gas mileage worse. the engine is working hard to try and sustain that freeway speed. but when you run the rpm's higher - it may be revving alot...but not requiring alot of work to keep the speed up. that make any sense?


    anyways, when aaron was gearing my axles we looked at the tooth engagement of the 4.88 pinion to ring on the D30. sure, it wasn't a whole lot of surface area - but it still seems to be doing fine for me. i only have around 6k or 7k miles on them - but no ill effects so far. alot of people say that 4.88 is too low for the D30 (such a physically small gear size) but in all honesty i haven't seen lots of examples of people at my level of rock-crawling who've turned the gears to christmas tree tinsel. everyone seems to preach how it will happen - i guess i'll just face that if it does. for now - my stock motor and stock tranny seem to do okay with that gear ratio in the D30 - but my stock axleshafts may be another TOTM altogether :)
    just my 2 cents...
    chris

    joe,
    just got off of the phone with them - they'll shorten, lengthen, or modify in any way that you wish....but NO balancing :( guess the search is on for a local place still.
    chris


    oh, and they said they know the local shops pretty well and none of them within about 40 miles balance either.

    it looks like i've been volunteered to lead the group north into the mountains of pennsylvania on friday :) i'd like to hit route 1 out of dover by 3pm at the latest. that should put us at the mountain campsite by no later than 6:30pm. plenty of time to set up tents, barbeque some grub, and run a last set of eyes over our jeeps before the dark sets in. if anyone thinks we need to bump the time up or down - let me know here and we'll see what people see. sign up with a reply and i'll just add you to the list.
    chris


    leave the north dover wawa (just south of the route 1 on ramp) by 3pm. meet at the faulk road wawa by 4pm - heading out of there between 4:15 and 4:30 bound for tamaqua pa. pm me if you need directions.

    mine fit well with no trimming needed - did you need to trim them on both the left and right sides? just curious since maybe your tub was just shifted slightly from the body lift. also, where did you get them lineX'ed at? i'm planning on spraying in a liner into my tub this summer and i would love to get a connection for buying a gallon of their product instead of herculiner's.
    chris

    best bet may be just to wait and measure it once you're finished. oh, and i forgot about your belly up skid - disregard contacting dmaster (he has the stock TC skid :))
    chris

    kenny,
    bob's right about the trackbar being needed. your front axle will be shifted to the left about a full inch once you're finished. the alumiflex rod you're talking about is a tie-rod for your steering. it's a very wise upgrade considering the trails you're obviously going to be going over when finished - but it won't address the axle shift issue. click here to see the page that has the light duty adjustable trackbar from RE. they also make a HD version for a few bucks more but the lighter one will work fine.


    for the rear driveshaft - you can either order tera's cookie-cutter version from bob, a tom woods one from him directly, or maybe a local shop to get one for substantially cheaper. i only called tera's a cookie cutter one since they have loads of them in stock that are made to a predetermined length to fit the most common jeeps with the most common lifts. you can call and say what year jeep and what make/size lift and they can send you one that'll fit. or you can call tom woods and they'll make it to fit from the dimensions you provide. the catch is that you install everything, measure, then order it. you won't have a rear driveshaft for 7 to 10 days - but you can run your jeep in 4HI with no ill effects.


    for the record - i think that tera and tw both have great driveshafts - it just depends upon which sticker you want to end up with ;)


    ***one more thing - if you go the route of tom woods...maybe call up dmaster. he's also running that same lift on a d35 w/3.07's pushed by a 5 speed - maybe he can measure out his specs for you? (yoke centerline to yoke centerline)***

    most people picture this when they think of safety wiring (figure 3)...


    but i'm thinking more along the lines of just dimpling at the midspan of one of the flats and then drilling for the adjacent flat. i can't see how that would weaken the head of the bolt to the point where it would cause failure.
    chris

    friday can work for me too. oh, and for the record i now have a minifridge in the garage and the bbg grill's just outside the back garage door. if we get some people to come by maybe a few patties/dogs can be thrown on? just an idea to help get friends to help turn wrenches.
    chris


    p.s. if friday is bad for everyone then saturday can still work - we're just kicking around options.

    just got off the phone with a buddy in metals tech here (the guy who hooked me up with the chart for you). he said first grind a little spot like you said to lose the cased temper - no more than a thousands or two. snap a spot on it, clamp it in your press, and then go for it. use the lowest speed available on your press and use a bit that is either cobalt or carbide tipped (carbide being his preference). lastly, sort of goes without saying...but be liberal with the machining oil - apply it with an acid brush while turning into it. he said that should get the job done. i may stop down and see him one of these days - maybe i can grease the wheels of drilling them in his shop :)
    chris

    easy enough. your drill press and a sharp bit w/oil will do the trick. i have safety wire - and may have a set of safetywire pliers around my place somewhere. let me know...
    chris